5.9 vs. 8.3 VE pump

[A Johnson]

Originally posted by rebsram

... u need to pull the cam when u change the gear case, or figure out a way the pull the timeing gear off and press it back onto the cam. "



Pull the gear with a three jaw puller and heat it up to 450*F for 1 hour in an oven and slip it back on. It's a little harder to do than say, but its done all the time.



A Johnson

 

[Reb.B]

i believe it says on the gear not to heat above 180 degrees or permant distortion may occur. i can't remember which gear i read it on, or maybe it was the shop manual... . i think it was the shop manual

 

[nascar mark]

Its more like 700 degs, when we did mine at PDR. I could be off alittle (100 deg or so ) as i wasn't watching the digital heat gun.



If you don't know what you are doing, its real easy to crack the gear as the keyway is not in the meat of the gear but in the weak part of the web.



So be warned. If you aren't prepared to replace a gear or two, leave it to the experts.



mark

 

[A Johnson]

I dug out my 91 B series book and it says 350* max for not over six hours. ( We use 450* at the shop as 350* we have trouble getting the gear on) The important thing is that you use an oven due to the gear heating up slowly and evenly. DON"T USE A TORCH.



I don't think 180* would expand the gear enough to even start it.



It's a little rough lining up all the gears while trying to hold a hot gear in your hand , even with good insulated gloves. Sometimes the gear will only go on a little way and I use a blunt tip on an air hammer to walk it on. The amazing thing about the air hammer is that it doesn't seem to knock the cam plug out the back of the block, as happens often when tapping with a brass hammer.



If you do decide to try this yourself, make sure you make a note of how far the cam nose sticks out of the gear before removing the gear. This way you have a reference to tell if the new gear is on all the way.



A Johnson

 

[Reb.B]

well for those of us who do things the Right way, we take the time to pull the cam out. It is not good practice to put a puller on the gear, which warps it, then heat it up, which warps it. But for those who think its ok to cut corners, then go right ahead. There is more than one way to do things, i Try to do them the most correct way. "the camsahaft gear will be permanently distorted if overheated. The oven temperature should never exceed 177 degrees C (350 degrees F). " k, there u go. i was didn't have my book, just now got it. I'll make sure to have my shop manual with me at all times now. Later, Reb

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I can't attest to the "correct" temps for pulling/Installing a cam gear but I do know that an attempt to put one on at less than 600*F failed... the gear split... right Mark!! Perhaps it's the temp + duration, as in when it sits in an over or something. I don't know, but the second gear slipped on slick as a whistle.



Also, therabbittree,

When in stock (unmodified) trim the Lucas (POD's) flow more fuel than the 370 marine injectors. I don't know what the spray

angle(s) are for the 370's but that is a consideration since the bowl in our piston is offest as is the injection angle. Perhaps the 370's, which send slightly less fuel will have less smoke at idle, or maybe more if the spray angles are different.

Let us know how you make out on that experiment.

One of the symptoms that has come out with us guys running the POD's is smoke/haze at idle with rich pump settings. It seems that "perhaps" some of the fuel cloud is overshooting the piston bowl, causing incomplete combustion above the piston surface instead of in the bowl. Lowering the injector into the bore seems to help a bit with this. Some success has been found using the thinner washers (twenty thou. i think) with the POD's, this would seem to lend credence to the theory.

I've also wondered if tweaking the pop off pressure of these injectors would help too but that's R&D I can't afford to do right now.



Just thinking out loud...



Bob.