Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 5-sp Slave Cyl from NAPA (for ETH)

[RobG]

I just picked up my 5-speed slave cylinder from NAPA today, and I did a search and found the thread where I first learned of this cool mod.



The problem: While I did specify the NAPA part number posted (360-051), the numbers on this slave cyl do not match up with the ones posted in that thread. The numbers on it are:



DB07ML016B



and



VC-17366



Is this still going to work? It's also very different from the last slave cyl I saw (one for my Camaro). This ne has a plastic body, and is an inch to inch and a quarter in diameter, and about 6" long. It has a red thing sticking out of one end with a plastic cap and straps over it.



And if this IS it, how large do I have to make the hole in the end to work on the ETH? I'd just as soon go ahead and do that before the shop installs it, when they install my new South Bend clutch on Wednesday. Is it safe to do this with a drill bit?



Rob

 

[MikeR]

The numbers are different because the ones on the thread were the original numbers off the original cylinder. The new cylinder will of course have different numbers. You're okay.



Yes you can use a drill bit. I just measured the hole in my original and a 1/4" bit fits perfectly.



I'm interested to see how your South Bend ETH clutch turns out with this cylinder. I bet it will have a feather soft pedal effort.



-Mike

 

[Archive]

Peter@southbend, MikeR, JoeD... anybody!



Why is it that some clutch installs need this and some don't? What is the difference... I want to purchase a new a new clutch, but have been holding off due to this question. Should I be prepared and get a new slave ahead of time... or maybe I would be one that doesn't need it. It just does not make any sense to me, and til it does, I don't want to invest any money. I hate buying things with questions!

 

[BIG BOB]

RobG,



I picked up a 360-051 slave cylinder today, the numbers on the casting were the same as yours. I'm sure we got the right ones.



Napa says this slave cylinder (360-051) is off the 98, 1/2 ton pickups. I compared it with the one for the 98 & 99 Cummins, 5-speeds and this one is much larger. Should be much less pedel pressure.



However, the clutch may release a little closer to the floor.



Big Bob

 

[RobG]

What is the procedure for bleeding this thing once it's on? The shop I had try to install it was unable to "get it to bleed. " (their words, I didn't ask for more details). They hogged out the connection that needed it, but just said it wouldn't bleed.



Ideas?



Rob

 

[BIG BOB]

Come on MikeR and Vaughn, I'm going to install mine tomorrow.



I thinking about filling the slave cylinder as much as I can before I attach the line. Will this help?



Any pointer are greatly appreciated!

 

[MikeR]

Yes Bob,fill it with the cylinder with the piston axtended all the way out before attatching it to the line. Make sure the hole is hogged out before attatching it though.



With it full,attatch itto the line,then flex the line downward so you can hold the cylinder upright so the bubbles can float up and work the piston in and out and have someone above watching the resivoir for bubbles... keep doing this even after the bubbles are all gone.

That's all you need to do to bleed it,keep working the piston.



RobG,you can't bleed it while its bolted to the trans. Unbolt it so you can work the pistons' full travel.



Rob Hanson,

Well,the diaphram springs on these hi-po clutches are alot higher pressure than the stock. I've been meaning to email Peter at Southbend to see if they have lots of folks complaining how stiff their 425hp clutch pedal is so they can suggest this as a fix. Yes I think you should just add it in when you do your clutch... actually,for anybody who buys this clutch,I recommend doing this mod while the clutch is out (I was going to install one for you anyway Rob).



-Mike

 

[BIG BOB]

MikeR,



I'm a little confused. With my cylinder there came instructions that say "do not remove plastic nose strap from the push rod" Ok, I understand that, but from this plastic nose piece there are 2 plastic ties attached to it and they extend to the cylinder housing holding the push rod from going out. Am I to clip these ties before installation, but leave the plastic nose piece on?



Big Bob

 

[MikeR]

Correct,you will need to leave the plastic nose on and clip off the straps. Clip 'em off now that way they won't be in the way while you bleed it.

 

[David_VT]

PLEASE post the link to the old thread on this

Our new search engine has been crippled by what must be a resource shortage. The webmaster has limited our search to one every 30 seconds, no more.



After two failed attempts I give up...



Please post a link to the above mentioned thread re: bomb'd slave cylinder



FOUND IT:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17829

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Don't need to clip strap

I didn't clip the strap on mine. I disconnected the strap then filled the cylinder, then pushed the rod back in, pushing extra brake fluid out to dispel all air. Then I reinserted the straps like it came, connected the line and installed it.



Bob, I would be SURE to keep the cap on the reservoir when disconnecting the line at the slave to prevent all the fluid from gushing out and making the job 3 times harder and 10 times messier. But when Mike did his, his fluid didn't run out, so I don't know why mine did. Just a precaution.



Vaughn

 

[MikeR]

Well Bob,how did it go?

 

[BIG BOB]

It's done! Holy Cow! I about put my #15 right through the floor the first time I steped on the pedal!



I had to install a second cylinder. Before I installed the first cylinder I notice the first cylinder had been installed at least once already (nut marks on the housing is a dead give away), I should have listened to my better senses, it was defective. The pedal would not hold, got another one about 5:00 this afternoon. Installation went fast, this one seems to hold fine.



Again, What a difference in pedal pressure, no more leg presses!



Again the 360-051 is off the 98 1/2 ton trucks, but it seem to work fine, (only time will tell) and again the pedal pressure is great!



Oh, by the way, if you have a #1 drill bit (. 0228), that is the exact size you need to drill the inlet hole out to.

 

[Archive]

MikeR... you are too nice! And, you have helped many fellow members with this idea. Thanks for being the "test-bed" for it!

 

[DAAguiar]

I am going to try the slave cylinder swap.

NAPA online correct Part Number--

UBP 360051 $ 72. 00



UBP must be used with P/N

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Well as an updated to this story, from years ago, it was discovered that the slave cylinder from NAPA is not a good choice for our 3/4 ton trucks because it will NOT work with a SouthBend or aftermarket clutch.



Instead, call Peter at South Bend Clutch and he will get you the proper clutch slave that is higher quality than the stock one or the one from Napa.



When I got a SBC in my 2001, about a year after I made my last post on this thread, I could not shift gears because the Napa unit did not allow enough clutch disk movement due to it being a larger cylinder.



Hope this makes sense



I used to have a 2001 HO which is in the Readers Rigs still.



Vaughn

 

[DAAguiar]

Put that NAPA UBP 360051 in. Followed you guys words of wisdom. Thank you !

Did put a piece of tape over the reservoir

cap. This stopped the fluid from draining

during the install.

Pedal effort is nice, clutch engages right off the floor.

Did have to remove the after market floor mats- never did like there look.

Now on to the LP relocate-

THANKS for the ideas... .

 

[DTroy]

Thanks for the update Vaughn MacKenzie. I dropped most of my drivetrain

today and was going to order the clutch tomorrow. Now I know enough to ask

Peter for the updated slave. (13" CON FE)