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5 spd or Auto transmission

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RPM drop with aDTT VB

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Hello every one. I am new to TDR so hope this works.
I have read myself silly on the formums and now I have so much information I'm not sure what I want. I saved my money and I have decided on a '98 or '99 QC but have not decided on a 12 Ver or 24--guess I'll take what I find.

THE REAL question is 5 SPD or AUTO transmission.

I believe there are real advantages to towing with a manual BUT the autos are easer to find. The autos seem to be VERY expensive to set up, are high maintiance, complicated to tow with and short lived (about 80K between rebuilds). I don't know if the convenience is worth the expense?
This will be a regular to work driver and I tow a #6000 boat now but I plan to pull a 5th wheeler in a year or two full time.
I also would like to know if a SB would be a mistake for this use. I keep vehicles a long time so this decision is a big one for me.
This should open a "BIG CAN of WORMS". Its been too quiet lately.
Thanks for your comments.
 
Before I bought my truck I drove 5 liter Stangs with 5spds and decided I needed a Truck... hummmm a diesel truck. I was tired of shifting and wanted an Auto. I ordered the truck auto not paying attention that the auto was rated at 215hp and the stick was 235hp(99) So I paid and extra 900 bucks for a POS transmission. This is the last auto I will own, when the 03's come out, I will be in line to order a new one. . stick that is... JB
 
If you don't mind shifting, keep looking for a stick. I bought a '96 RAM 2wd 3500 automatic just over two years ago, and traded it last October after nuking the transmission. Now I have an '01 6-speed.

Now, if I could have a GOOD automatic, like an Allison, I would. The 6-speed is nice, but I'm spoiled by the B&M Ripper in my Z28, so unless I can find a way to make this thing shift as nice as the Z, I'll still be preferring an auto.

That said, I do like my 6-speed, and I think you'll like a 5-speed when you find one.

As for which motor, I don't think it really matters; take which ever you can get the best deal on that's in the best shape. Both can be modded very easily. It's a bit cheaper to mod the 12-valves since there are no electronics involved, but it also takes a little more work, and you get dirty in the process. #ad


Now, long bed vs. short bed. In my opinion, if you're buying a fullsize truck, and a diesel no less, why compromise its load-carrying ability by getting a shortbox? I'm guessing you'll get a 2500, which will still be easier to maneuver and park than my mega-hips 3500. It's not THAT bad with the longbed. Now, I could see a problem if these trucks came in a real crew cab, but with the Quad (or Club) cab, it really isn't an issue.

Besides, the shortbox didn't appear until 1997 or 1998 anyway, so if you look at trucks older than that, you won't find any.

BUT... since transmission is your main choice, if you find the ideal truck and the bed is the only thing that isn't quite right, it might be worth getting. That's how it is in the used market. You have to decide what you HAVE to have and what would be icing.

Good luck!

Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate, 4. 10, USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, DD EZ, DD3 Injectors, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DD 4" Exhaust, US Gear Exhaust Brake, etc. On order: Southbend Clutch, HX-40
 
... and speaking of cans of worms... DEFINITELY go with the 12 valve!! Better mileage, easier to make power, quieter... and all those computers... I wouldnt trust them any farther than I could throw them!

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54, 5spd, Green, #12 plate, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, RS 9000's, PrimeLoc, Red Tops, TDR cloisonae grill badge!
 
I've had both and would never own a auto again. Stick in a truck is the only way to go especially if you tow.

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2001 2500 tow, camper, SWB, ETH/DEE, 3. 54 Bright white,4 wheel discs.
 
IMHO DTT is closing the gap between the auto and stick #ad


Thanks Bill #ad


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living the american dream and searching for more REAL horsepower
 
As Bob Wagner said "DTT is closing the gap. "

I have a 97 5 spd, slightly bombed and pull a 15,000# fifth wheel from job to job but that only amounts to 2/3% of total miles. I wanted an auto for every day driving. I contacted Bill K and told him my delimma. He suggested and I bought an auto with a 4:10 axle. It should be deliverd tomorrow. Per Bill's suggestion I will change to larger tires, taller, which will effectively change my ratio to somewhere around 3:70/3:90 which will lower rpm somewhat and still give much power. Will also change touque converty and valve body and whatever else Bill tells me to change. He has gained, deservedly so, the confidence of the TDR bunch and I'm going to go with that. All that being said my 97, 5 spd has been totally satisfactory.

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Charles F. Juckes
 
I've read a lot of posts of members with autos who want to trade for a 5/6 speed. Never seen a post for someone wanting to trade from an manual to an auto. Maybe that's why the autos are easier to find. The 5 speed I have is too simple to drive ... the only problem I have is trying to talk on the cell phone while shifting.

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Ken Lenger
2001. 5 2500 QC 4X4 SWB SLT, ETC/DDX 5 Speed, 3. 54 (no LSD), camper group, trailer folding mirrors, RBR CD/Radio, LT265/75R16E AT OWL tires, trailer tow group, Patroit Blue / Agate, Westin CPS Step Bars, Jordan Utlima Brake Controller, Weather_Guard 664 tool box/
Replaces 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 which is for sale.
Trailite 21' Travel Trailer, ~4000 lbs loaded.
 
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jolyman-
Don't know if ya ever heard of HVAC, but he is up in Canada getting an auto put in by Bill K. Like to see what his truck will be like with the new transmission. Had a new transmission put into my truck 'cause I didn't do the mod's right the first time. Whould I have had the same problems with a manual? I'm not sure , but the repairs probably been alot cheaper.

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BCFAST, you wouldn't be on the TDR without one of those damm computers. #ad
#ad

Larry

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Y2K 3500 QC,SLT,4X2,White, 6spd,3. 54 lsd,Banks Stinger +,Pacbrake,Pilar mt. EGT & Boost,Amsoil air filter,all amsoil lube w/BMK-15 filter system,MagTec rear cover,putco boss rbs. w/ rear ext. &flaps,20K reese,100 gal. aux. fuel,fold up T cover,5K airlift bags w/comp. ,ranger 2950 cb pushing palomar 225 amp,phantom radar det.
 
Jolyman,

We have a '98 12 valve auto. I think if you pull a lot, sticks are the way to go. I pull a lot but went with the automatic. Why? It's my wife's truck. She doesn't like sticks.

In the end, especially is you will be full time RVing, buy the type of trannie you like driving best. Yes you will have to modify the auto trannie and it will cost, but it's an easy drive.

I pull a 14,500 lb 5er. We go out west every year so we're up in the mountains. I lost my trannie in Bozeman last year. Had it rebuilt and put a Pro-Loc TC on it that I got from Sun Coast. Am very happy with it. I didn't know about DTT at the time so that wasn't an option.

If you are pulling a 5er full time you may consider a 3500 over a 2500, depends on the size of your 5er. You will go through tires about every 50k with a 3500.

Bill Cook

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'98, 3500, 101,000 miles, 12 valve, 4x4, QCab, SLT, auto, 3. 54, tow pkg, Pro-Loc TC, TST #8 plate (230/605), BD exhaust brake-presure lock-torque lock, heavy duty valve springs, Mag-Hitech trannie and diff. covers, transmission and pyro gauges pillar mounted, K&N filter, silencer ring removed, Draw-Tite brake controller, 14k 36' fifth wheel, 12k Sooner 4horse gooseneck, 13K (when loaded) 24ft gooseneck flat bed. '96 Ford 250 4x4 Powerstroke.
 
I wouldn't trade my DTT modified auto for a stick. I had a 5 spd. before and towing in heavy traffic is a pain with the constant shifting.
Phil
 
jolyman

Here's my worms! The stick is the pratical way to go for many reasons listed above. The auto is the convienent way to go. There's a lot of stress in our world today. If I can take a little away with an auto trans, then it's well worth it to me. I've driven sticks for 20+ years and had no problems with them (2 toys, GM. ) I'm 37 now and feel I deserve the auto - damnit!

The (majority of) people who have problems with the auto trans, are the ones BOMBin them past the trans ratings or towing 14k+ trailers. If you want the auto, get it and fix any weak links if you are in this group.

The new 2001. 5 has an "upgraded" auto. Really don't know what they upgraded tho?

I see short beds with tool boxes in them that have almost no room left in the bed for other things. I went with the long bed for my motorcycle and haulin stuff to camp. If you go with a 5'er, you'll want more room in the bed. The long bed's long wheel base makes for much better towing/ride - less bouncing on cement freeways...

Good luck on your decision!
Pat


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2001. 8 White Sport RAM 2500HD QC SLT 4X4 LB 3. 54 LSD Cummins Auto

1999 21' Terry Lite Towable
1990 Kawasaki KLR 250
 
I'll toss in my $. 02 for what it's worth.

I learned how to drive on a stick shift, and have always preferred them. I used to rebuild gearboxes in the Army so I have a fairly good idea of how they work. I have not the first clue as to how an auto works, and someday hope I can find somebody with enough patience to explain them to me. Anyway, Some of the reasons I prefer a manual: they are extremely simple creatures, and I like the KISS principle; I prefer to always be in complete control of my vehicle. I hate not being able to control an auto transmission, shifting when I don't want it to, etc. . This is the same reason why I hate Macintosh and MS Windows based computers and like Unix systems #ad
. Now if you live in some place like Los Angeles #ad
, where I grew up, or like Csutton7 in San Francisco, I can certainly see the advantages of an auto. All that slow traffic and steep hills would kill me having to shift 100 times every minute!

Now of course if your other half can't or won't drive a stick, an auto may also be the best choice. Of course then having a stick could ensure no one but you will be driving your baby #ad
#ad
#ad


Bottom line, you gotta go with your gut instinct.

Enjoy whichever you decide on.

Tom

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Tom Golden
Godzilla: Patriot Blue 2001 2500 SLT QC 4X4 LWB ETH/DEE, Tow & Camper packages, 3. 54 Ltd. Slip, 4 wheel disc ABS, Isspro EGT/boost gauges, DD Stage 3 afterburners #ad
, boost module, 4" Jardine exhaust, Amsoil, Psychotty air, black SmittyBilt nerf bars, no silencer ring, Armacoating bed liner, TDR decal, Jack holiday antenna ball

NRA Life/CRPA/El Dorado #26 F. &A. M. of California

[This message has been edited by TomGolden (edited 04-20-2001). ]
 
Jolyman,
I'm working on my third Cummins Ram. The first one I had was a 2500 with an auto. It did fine pulling an 8000 pound tagalong, but I upgraded to a 15000 pound 5er, and the beast would groan in the mountains. Sooo. . I traded for a 5-speed dually. That was the ticket except for the hips at McDonalds and the bank. Sooo... I sold the 5er and went back to 2500 land with HO and Six speeds, towing 7000 pounds. We absolutely adore the truck. BTW---I say get a longbed. There's a world of difference when towing either a fifth wheel or a tagalong. Make sure you can get it in the garage, though. Good luck. .
 
OOPS, I forgot to mention... If you're going to tow a heavy load anywhere near the mountains, the six-speed is the only way to go. That gap you may have heard about between 3rd and 4th in the five speed is brutal. Also, I had trouble with engine temp pulling the 5er up long hills (mountains) with the automatic...

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2001. 5 intenseblue ETH/DEE sportpkg,mostly stock and likely to stay that way.
 
Jolyman,

The bedlength decision is already made for you... If you are choosing between a '98 and '99 you can only get the longbed. (I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I understood the '00's were the first year of the short bed, no?

Anyway, I stayed up nights worrying about the auto/stick choice. I bought an auto. I wish I could shift at certain times, but in mostly city traffic, I'm happy with my choice. I also have the plan to tow a 6-7K boat, and was worried about the wife (and her discomfort in driving a stick) at the launching ramps #ad
! Now I won't have to worry about the truck ending up 6 ft under water! I do miss shifting (sometimes!) It is more relaxing tho!
 
If your gonna tow, go with a stick only. My
preference is a 6-speed, I had a 5-speed 12v before this one. Now 6-speeds are 245hp/500+ torque I believe.
By the way, I stopped over at Cherry Creek Dodge, and they've got 5-speeds along w/ a ton of auto's. Started raining real hard so I left before seeing a 6-speed. Go over there and drive a few, it's close to you.
I bought mine at Johnson Auto Plaza(Brighton), they gave me the best price at the time, and I priced everybody at the time. Good luck!

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99 2500SLT,QC,4x4,6-spd, 3. 5 lsd,LB,Camper group , Jacobs E-Brake, Autometer Pyro & Boost guages, Rhino liner, Airlift 5000 airbags, Redline hitch,Tekonsha brake control,Diamomd plate bed rails,Dodge grill & splash guards.
 
I grew up in southwest Colorado and if I was still out there I would buy a stick for sure. The auto is really nice for my driving here, tons of traffic and lights, but if I could get on the road and go I would definately get a manual trans. I have a shortbed now and I will not get another, I would go longbed. You can put a toolbox across the bed and still have the same room as a shortbed with nothing in it. Put a toolbox in a shortbed and you have no room left.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member
 
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