500 + rwhp

[MikeGenova]

I have a mostly stock 2007 Cummins 5. 9L, my goal is to build the motor to put out somewhere between 500 and 600 RWHP. If you were to go about this what would you guys do to get there? Reliablility is a big factor as this is my daily driver so whatever I could do to make it more reliable I will go that route. I was thinking twin turbos, fass or air dog fuel system, injectors, head studs, valve springs and lifters, camshaft, intercooler, CP3 pump work, head work? Im not sure where that would get me but your suggestions and reccomendations would be greatly appriciated.

 

[osiris]

well I have seen 2007s dyno at 500 HP with a tune (bd or smarty) a fuel system and a aftermarket clutch... If you have an auto you are going to need at least a TC, VB and a billet input shaft. If money is not an object I would do an airdog or fass fuel system (150) a cp3 upgrade such as the arson III kit or even the avenger kit from wickeds, programming of your choice, I have a PMT with CL way easier to adjust than smarty with POD and it offers you a complete set of guages, however the boost gauge will not read accurately since it reads off the map sensor. You do not need to go to twins unless you just want to have twins, a 62 or 64 series turbo will be just fine and you would be able to tow with both, if you want twins you are going to have a lot lower EGTs and the set i would reccommend would again be a wicked diesel set its one of the cheapest sets i have seen and Shane really pays attention to detail. So the list of:



Fuel system

CP3 mod

flux 1s

programming

transmission upgrade

turbo(s)

That will put you over 500 probably closer to 600HP and you should stay relatively reliable depending on your driving style...

 

[WoodJ]

Trans mods sould be first. I made 490 on diesel and 530 with water/meth with mods listed. No smarty, edge on hot(180hp). Stock lift pump and stock injecters.

 

[DE Jeeper]

See my sig. I am over 600hp with no high pressure fueling mods. Got over 50k of daily driving on the twins and injectors with no issues. I do smoke like a freight train and run out of fuel, but i cant afford the cam and Floor It cp3 so I run it the way it is.



Aaron

 

[MMeier]

I did 551 RWHP with nothing more the an EZ teamed with a Powermax, air intake, 4" exhaust . Stock filter mounted LP and CP3. That was in 95* heat and with around 11k miles on the fuel and air filters.

 

[Tinman]

From my research, you can make 500 with stock CP3 and injectors. You won't need springs or head studs for 500 unless you do do twins and run high boost or rpms. Also, you don't need a cam for that hp either but it is one of the nicest mods you can do to a 600 and up motor. Intercooler, not necessary (especially with twins) but nice. Low pressure fueling grades (pump and filtering) and trans first and foremost. Then more air. You might run into a little bit of a laggy turbo if you go much over 500 with a single. I chose the smallest single I thought I could get away with and did just about every other air flow mod I could think of (short is milled off the pendulum and using a "Big Hoss" type intake). I haven't been on the dyno but I"m sure I'm close to 500 and it drives fantastic. If you can do the $$, the mods you mentioned would be a great running motor. My issue now my Smarty will push past 3200 rpms, so I feel I need springs. Well if I do that might as well do injectors, and then studs and them maybe a modded rail. Heck if you do all that might as well have the pendulem milled and get on of those intakes. Now I've spent a lot of $$.

 

[MikeGenova]

Interesting, seems like getting around 500 hp isnt as hard as I figured. Id like to be able to keep the egts in check and be able to use the power whenever towing and not run into worrying about melting something due to high egts. I have a smarty jr on the truck now, do you guys think I would have to get the regular smarty or would the jr do the job? Also how big are the flux 1 injectors? 100 HP? I need to update my sig but I have the 6 speed g-56 so I figured Id just go with the south bend DD.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Mark, didn't you have an aftermarket turbo also when you made 551 hp?

 

[MMeier]

Mark, didn't you have an aftermarket turbo also when you made 551 hp?

Oops, yes I did, along with the ATS manifold. Had to go look. Could be interesting with the bigger sticks in there now . If I could find a dyno that someone knows how to operate, I'd put it on there again.

 

[SRadke]

Interesting, seems like getting around 500 hp isnt as hard as I figured. Id like to be able to keep the egts in check and be able to use the power whenever towing and not run into worrying about melting something due to high egts. I have a smarty jr on the truck now, do you guys think I would have to get the regular smarty or would the jr do the job? Also how big are the flux 1 injectors? 100 HP? I need to update my sig but I have the 6 speed g-56 so I figured Id just go with the south bend DD.

Now you're asking a different question. How do I make 500 and how do I make 500 useable are two totally diffrent setups.



500 is easy. You favorite programmer + the right set of injectors (will vary with the programmer you choose) + a moderate turbo upgrade will net you a 500 plus dyno sheet. Of this, you're looking at ~350-400 useable horsepower with a very friendly setup.



500 useable is more expensive. To get there you'll want more than a smarty JR, and more than a mild turbo upgrade. You'll need a minimum of a 66/14 turbo. Can be done on a single but you give up you're low end towing (less than 2000 rpm) with that much turbo. To have both you need twins. You'll also be adding a lift pump setup and some CP3 work to make that happen. Keep in mind if you have a useable 500 you'll also have a 600-650 dyno sheet.



Flux 1's ~50 hp

Flux 2's ~100 hp

Flux 3's ~150 hp



-Scott

 

[osiris]

You dont need a 66 to make 600 HP I had a stage 3 garrett for a long time approx a 64 and before i added an ez i dynoed at 625 with water and 580 without. I was also able to tow @ 500 HP with no egt issues. With the water on I could not get my egt gauge past 1450 with everything set to kill. . Of course I was not towing with everything turned up either...

 

[dan.poitras]

You want reliability? Leave it stock. It will turn into a money pit.

You've been warned

 

[JWadford]

Oops, yes I did, along with the ATS manifold. Had to go look. Could be interesting with the bigger sticks in there now . If I could find a dyno that someone knows how to operate, I'd put it on there again.

like the ones that barely load enough to hit 35lbs boost when the blow offs are set at 70-75 so you just make a mushroom cloud of smoke, those guys irritate me, alot of guys on here have more power than they think, in my irresponsible driving habits, i have found anything over 550, rwhp is not reliable if you use that power daily, i was constantly fixing u-joints and axles but that was on a lifted truck too, pretty much comes down to your right foot for reliability, alot of people knock the dodge truck, but they are pretty dang tough, a chevrolet wont take that. :-laf

 

[Tinman]

As far as towing goes, isn't the real limiting factor the cooling system? I thought towing at about 450 was all the cooling system could handle if it was working hard (heavy load, long grade).

 

[R.Taylor]

Get a good clutch set-up and a Smarty S-06 POD. #7 will give you 130hp or #9 will give you 170hp. Also may consider a 4" turbo back system and a water/meth system like a snow performance system. A Glacier Diesel dual feed line system and a Wicked Diesel's Bag o' Parts CP3 kit. Sure, Fass or Adog would be nice but it depends on how much $$$ you can spend.

 

[MMeier]

like the ones that barely load enough to hit 35lbs boost when the blow offs are set at 70-75 so you just make a mushroom cloud of smoke, those guys irritate me, alot of guys on here have more power than they think, in my irresponsible driving habits, i have found anything over 550, rwhp is not reliable if you use that power daily, i was constantly fixing u-joints and axles but that was on a lifted truck too, pretty much comes down to your right foot for reliability, alot of people knock the dodge truck, but they are pretty dang tough, a chevrolet wont take that. :-laf

Yep, those are the ones !#@$%! Then you ask them WTF, and they have a reply of something like ... yeah, I know what I'm doing, I just did 50 F bodies on the thing last weekend !

 

[DE Jeeper]

As far as towing goes, isn't the real limiting factor the cooling system? I thought towing at about 450 was all the cooling system could handle if it was working hard (heavy load, long grade).

I tow fine and keep the egts under 1300 through the hills of PA and across country with 12-14k on the gooneck all summer long. Stay in the right gear at the right RPMs and you will be fine at 600hp.



Aaron

 

[MikeGenova]

I know leaving this truck in the stock form is going to make it more reliable. Im not going to use this power all the time if I were to build up my motor to 5 or 6 hundred hp, i usually baby my truck all the time but I like to play every once and awhile and have alittle fun with a Ford or Chevy. My truck is kind of like my hobby so Id like to play around with it alittle bit.

 

[JWadford]

I know leaving this truck in the stock form is going to make it more reliable. Im not going to use this power all the time if I were to build up my motor to 5 or 6 hundred hp, i usually baby my truck all the time but I like to play every once and awhile and have alittle fun with a Ford or Chevy. My truck is kind of like my hobby so Id like to play around with it alittle bit.

next thing you know, out comes the engine for some balancing and coated pistons, a giant cam,custom head, giant turbos, injectors, and big injection pumps and thats just the beginning lol:-laf

 

[MA2LA]

There are a couple things to look at. One just because u have 500hp doesnt mean that at all times towing you will be using it. keep a eye on your EGTs and engine temp and that will give you an idea of how hard your pushing it. . Two I honestly dont know how long the rears and ujoints in our trucks will last if you did try to use that much all the time expecialy towing, I know i have some slack in mine and i'm getting ready to do all the ujoints and pull the cover off to see what the R and P look like. I know mine despertaly needs a trbo soon but between ball joints and track bar and all the other little crap such as a busted trans cooler its eating at my turbo funds so the smarty has gotten backed down to a reasonable setting.