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5th gear fix that works & lube

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rhoads

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Having many reguest for the info in my real world testing of the cummins/nv 4500 set-up here are " the things that work" !! . .

To retain (keep in place) the 5 th gear nut is simple and i might add 2 things from the start. Nv/dodge/gm was very close to my fix which i relayed to them - Nv And standard transmission in 98 just before(JUNE) there split nut fix was to go into production JULY 5th,98 tsb sept 98... Keep in mind that (production) is first to get the latest and greatest.

Now if you read my info at the end you will see my rig is a 96 -took delvery june of that year and learned 2 days later of the problem with 5 th gear(here i might insert i leave in the Elkhart ,In area) aproxmently 45 days later the 5 th gear nut backed off. . Ocala Fl.

After calling dodge (area dealer) on a thursday and being assured I "might" get in to there shop by monday(un-execptable) took matters in to my own control.

Here i should add back in the 70 s when cummins changed there eng. S fron running at 2100 Rpm's to 1100-1800 range IH/dana/had some what of the same proplem, EXCEPT it was the front drive of a tandem set up---the cure --more torque on the nut of the bull gear. Aprox 400 lbs more torque. on a thick shaft and nut not a problem... But in the NV case we are talking about a shaft that is 1- 5/8 s--and a nut that is at best 5/8ths thick... ...

Knowing that that both would'nt stand that kind of torque i knew a strong lock nut was needed... .

Now how do you lock a nut in place?? Red loc tite-- fiber /plastic/or nut with distortated threads.

In the case of the nv 4500 the first two were allready in place. and still would not stand up to the vibration.

And to distorte the threads anymore would cause the threads to strip during instalation... Sooooooo. to the Fix!!

Remove the rear cover(1) Remove (if not all ready off-5 th gear nut) that was (2) ---(3) if nothing else is at hand use starting fluid/ether or brake clean and spray the shaft & nut threads to remove the lube film( If yours has the split nut throw it away and get THE superceded nut think it is Nv 1875) Have the dodge #buryed some where here ???? I might add I field tested the split and it did hold 17000 miles longer than the production nut

4--put red loc tite on the threads of the shaft & the threads of the nut.

5 install the nut--here you should-- if the transmission is our of the truck and the cover is off (top) slid 2 gears in to gear and chain down to the work bench----If in the truck put into 1(first )gear now torque to 300-310 ft lb's,with miller tool # 6743 and if you want to hold the shaft #6993. Now if you read the repair manual it say's if you dont have a 3/4 drive torque wrench strike the tool with a hammer after toquing with a 1/2 drive and adaptor. .

6--------------- and IF you chose to use a new nut or re-use the old full circle nut---- THIS is the secret ---Also if you read the Standard Transmission artical a few issues back there last step of the nut instalation--- WITH A 2-1/2-3b hammer AND a large center punch -place the point just above the threads of the nut and drive it down towards the shaft nut. . Repeat 8-10 times around the diam of the nut and I will guarantee THE nut will stay in place min 168 k using a worn oem full circle nut and oem 5 th gear... .

Re cap

1 remove rear cover and 5 th gear nut

2 clean threads of nut and shaft with ether /brake cleen Blow dry or air dry.

3 apply any red loc-tite to threads of nut and shaft.

4 torque to 300-310 ft lb

5 With a 3 lb hammer and center punch and put your back & arm into it drive threads of nut into the shaft threads ,,,youve just made a x-tream-super loc nut.

MY first try at this fix was at 32k in ocala fl 1200 miles from my comfort zone(shop) staked 4 times on oem nut reusing 5 th gear and held for 168k ,someone(un-named)stated they couldn't get that in there test. some thought was a longer spline on the out put shaft might be the answer But my results put that to bed. . Tested the split nut, I will add i installed a new main shaft for two reasons,first tobe fair to the test --and when the nut started to come off for the second time i knew it was for about fail for 12k,sounded like b-b's in the shift lever.

I have the oem shaft and nut in the shop yet today and i can fully seat it and remove it with out turning the nut on the shaft. .

Next step remove the flywheel and machine and install South Bend Clutch's pilot bushing IF you don't shame on you-------

Damaged input shaft from D/c- $580 STD- $130 This is with out towing and labor. And a life experance heading into a toll booth/forced land change-last second!!!!!!and input shaft locked to flywhell due to input shaft roller bearing failure...
 
forgot the lube

Syntec 75w90. 700+k been over the knobs of Ny,Pa,Va,Wva,Nc. IA CA,Wa, 100deg's gross wt 32k at times-all oem bearings still in place --shift like new,change every 100-130k no added filters or capicity. Cost $8 per qt. no seal troubles.

Not out of my pocket-use what you want!!!!

Forgot have a added acc,4 inch magnet on pto cover to attract any (none)floating particales!!!!
 
5th gear repair

So, from what I'm reading, you can do this fix with the transmission in the truck? If so, what is the process? Where do I access the nut?

Greg
 
5th gear nut

OLIVER88

yes you can leave the trans in the truck. I have done it three times.

1st. pull the drive shaft out of the trans.

2nd pull the speed sensor out of the tail section (it should be on the drivers side)

3rd support trans

4th undo bolts that hold trans to cross member and remove spacer.

5th undo bolts that hold tail section to trans and remove (put bucket under seal area to catch fluid)

the 5th gear nut will be against the gear that is at the front of the shaft against the trans housing. at least thats how mine is set up. Good luck. ;)
 
Oliver 88!! Coool!



Love your "REBEL" choice of oil!!



Also, if you add up what DC wants for parts piece by piece, I bet it would be close to $10,000.





Gene
 
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