Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 5th gear nut, who makes it, looking for instructions

[Coalsmoke]

Hey guys, I'm getting my NV4500 rebuilt in the coming week or two, and I want to give the shop doing the work an updated 5th gear nut to put in there, the one with the set screws, because the transmission will be all apart anyways getting all new bearings etc. I think the shop might be uneasy about installing the nut, and so that they don't try and say that my warranty on the transmission will be void if they instal this unknown-to-them nut, I'd like to be able to give the transmission shop a printout with the official instructions and the companies phone # on it so they have it for reference and so that they know that its legit. There's no apparent company name on the box of the nut (I got one from PDR today), and no instruction sheet in the box.



Thanks,

CS

 

[DBraunig]

Here is a copy of the TSB, word for word. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need the pics.



Dave





NO: 21-10-98 Rev. A



SUBJECT: Loss Of Fifth Gear

DATE: Sep. 25, 1998



REPAIR PROCEDURE:

This bulletin involves installing a new fifth gear, spring disc washer, and a revised fifth gear clamp nut.



Shift the transmission into neutral.

Raise the vehicle on an appropriate hoist.

If equipped, remove the skid plate.

Place a drain pan under the transmission.

Remove the PTO cover bottom bolt and drain the lubricant out of the transmission (Figure 1).

Using a suitable marker, mark a line across the rear axle pinion yoke and the rear propeller shaft yoke for installation reference.

If equipped with a two-piece propeller shaft, with a suitable marker, mark the outline of the center bearing on the frame crossmember for installation reference. Then, remove the bolts that attach the center bearing to the support bracket (Figure 2).

Remove the bolts holding the universal joint clamp to the pinion yoke.

Slide the slip yoke off the transmission/transfer case output shaft and remove the rear propeller shaft. If the vehicle is a 4X4, proceed to Step 10. If the vehicle is a 4X2, proceed to Step 21.

With a suitable marker, mark a line across the front propeller shaft yoke at the transfer case and the propeller shaft yoke at the rear of the front propeller shaft.

Mark a line across the propeller shaft yoke at the front of the front propeller shaft and the front pinion shaft yoke.

Remove the universal strap bolts at the front pinion shaft yoke (Figure 3).

Remove the bolts holding the propeller shaft to the transfer case yoke flange.

Remove the front propeller shaft.

Disconnect vent hose and vacuum harness at transfer case switch.

Disconnect transfer case shift linkage at transfer case range lever. Then, remove transfer case shift mechanism from transmission.

Support transfer case with transmission jack. Secure the transfer case to the jack with safety chains.

Remove transfer case attaching nuts.

Move transfer case rearward until transfer case input shaft clears transmission output shaft.

Lower transfer case assembly and move it from underneath vehicle.

Support the transmission with a jack.

Remove bolts attaching transmission mount to the rear crossmember.

Remove bolts attaching exhaust pipe hanger to the transmission.

Remove the eight bolts that attach the extension/adapter housing to the gear case (Figure 4).

Remove extension/adapter housing.

NOTE: THERE IS ONE ALIGNMENT DOWEL IN THE GEAR CASE AND ONE IN THE EXTENSION/ADAPTER HOUSING.



If equipped, remove rubber spline seal from end of mainshaft (Figure 5) and discard. The seal is mainly used to prevent lubricant loss during shipping and does not have to be replaced.

Install nut wrench special tool 6743 onto fifth gear nut (Figure 6). Be sure wrench is fully engaged in nut slots and is not cocked.

NOTE: THE NUT WRENCH WILL ONLY FIT ONE WAY ON THE NUT.



Position the small end of the nut wrench at approximately the 10 o’clock position (Figure 6).

Install splined socket Special Tool 6993 (4X2) or 6984 (4X4) onto the mainshaft. Then, install a breaker bar onto the splined socket. Wedge the breaker bar so that the mainshaft cannot turn while loosening the fifth gear nut (Figure 7).

Strike the small end of the nut wrench with a heavy soft face hammer to break the nut loose. During assembly, the nut has been tightened to 300 ft. lbs. of torque. In addition, it is secured by a an interference fit thread plus Loctite adhesive and will require several firm blows to loosen it. Once the nut is loose, it can be removed by holding the nut wrench with a breaker bar and rotating the output shaft with the spline socket and the breaker bar (Figure 7).

NOTE: THE NUT MAY ALREADY BE LOOSE AND WILL NOT REQUIRE YOU TO STRIKE THE NUT WRENCH TO LOOSEN THE NUT.



Remove the roll pins that secure the countershaft fifth gear shift fork to the shift rail with a pin punch (Figure 8). Drive the roll pins from the bottom of the fork and not the top.

Remove the snap ring that secures the fifth gear clutch hub and gear onto the countershaft (Figure 9).

Remove fifth gear shift fork, gear and hub, and synchronizer components as an assembly. Remove assembly by tapping shift fork off rail with a plastic mallet.

Remove countershaft fifth gear needle bearing assembly and the cone shaped rear bearing thrust washer from the end of the countershaft. Note the position of the washer for assembly reference. Also note that the washer bore has a notch for a retaining pin.

Remove and retain thrust washer locating pin from countershaft.

Remove fifth gear from the mainshaft using puller Special Tool Set 6444 and the following procedures.

Position first half of puller jaw Special Tool 6820 onto the fifth gear (Figure 10).

Assemble puller flange Special Tool 6444-1 and puller rods Special Tool 6444-3 for 4X2 models or 6444-4 for 4X4 models (Figure 11).

Slide assembled puller flange and rods onto output shaft. Then, seat flange in notch of puller jaw.

Position second puller jaw Special Tool 6820 onto gear and the notch on the puller flange.

Slide retaining collar Special Tools 6444-8 over puller jaws to hold them in place (Figure 12).

Install puller and bolt (Special Tool 6444) onto puller rods. Then, secure the puller to rods with the retaining nuts (Figure 13).

Tighten puller bolt to remove gear from shaft splines.

Clean the mainshaft threads with a wire brush.

Clean the mating surface of the extension/adapter housing and the gear case with Mopar Brake Parts Cleaner p/n 04897150AA.

CAUTION: THE REAR SEAL OF THE EXTENSION/ADAPTER HOUSING MUST BE PROTECTED FROM THE MOPAR BRAKE PARTS CLEANER WHEN CLEANING THE HOUSING’S MATING SURFACES.



Install new fifth gear p/n 04741551 onto the mainshaft. Use installer Special Tool 6446 to seat gear onto the mainshaft (Figure 14). Gear is seated when it contacts the rear bearing.

Clean threads of the new fifth gear nut (from package p/n 05013887AA) and the mainshaft with Mopar Brake Parts Cleaner p/n 04897150AA.

Install the new spring disc washer (from package p/n 05013887AA) onto the mainshaft. The concave side of the washer must be positioned toward fifth gear (Figure 15).

Apply the Loctite #272 (Mopar p/n 05014205AA) (from package p/n 05013887AA) to the threads of the nut.

**Carefully slide the new nut (from fifth gear nut package p/n 05013887AA) over the mainshaft splines up to the threaded portion of the mainshaft but do not engage the threads at this time. The flat side of the nut must face towards fifth gear and the concave washer (Figure 16).

NOTE: IF THE NUT DOES NOT SLIDE EASILY OVER THE MAINSHAFT SPLINES, LOOSEN THE CROSS BOLT IN 1/4 TURN INCREMENTS UNTIL THE NUT SLIDE OVER THE SPLINES.



Tighten the cross bolt until the gap in the fifth gear clamp nut assembly is closed.

Back the cross bolt out one full turn.

CAUTION: THE ABOVE STEPS ARE CRITICAL FOR THE FIFTH GEAR CLAMP NUT TO FUNCTION PROPERLY.



Install nut wrench Special Tool 6743 onto the fifth gear nut.

Install splined socket Special Tool 6993 (4X2) or 6984 (4X4) onto the output shaft and attach a breaker bar to the splined socket. While holding the fifth gear nut with the nut wrench, tighten the fifth gear nut until the nut bottoms onto the fifth gear spring disc washer. Then, install a high capacity torque wrench onto the fifth gear nut wrench and torque the nut to 366 - 380 N•m (270 - 280 ft. lbs. ).

Tighten the cross bolt on the fifth gear nut. Torque the bolt to 11 - 14 N•m (8 - 10 ft. lbs. ). **

Install the fifth gear synchronizer thrust washer pin into the countershaft bore (Figure 17).

Install the fifth gear synchronizer thrust washer onto the countershaft. The flat side of the washer faces the rear of the transmission and the tapered side faces the front of the transmission (Figure 17). Turn the washer until the pin engages into the thrust washer notch.

Lubricate the fifth gear needle bearing with gear Mopar NV 4500 Transmission Lubricant p/n 04874459 and install the bearing onto the countershaft.

Install fifth gear shift fork, gear and hub, and synchronizer components as an assembly onto the countershaft and the shift rail.

Install clutch gear snap ring (Figure 9).

Align roll pin holes in shift fork with notches in the shift lug rail. Then, install roll pins from top side of the fork.

NOTE: ROLL PINS ARE DIRECTIONAL AND WILL ONLY FIT PROPERLY ONE WAY DUE TO A SMALLER SHOULDER AT ONE END OF THE PIN.



Verify that the alignment dowels in gear case and extension/adapter housing are in their proper position and are fully seated.

Apply Mopar Gasket Maker p/n 04318083 to the gear case and extension/adapter housing mating surfaces.

Align and install the extension/adapter housing onto the gear case.

Apply Mopar Lock N’ Seal p/n 04318031 to the threads of the extension/adapter housing bolts.

Install and tighten the housing bolts to 54 N•m (40 ft. lbs).

Continue reassembly procedures using Step 1 through Step 23 in reverse order.

Once the transmission has been fully assembled, fill the transmission with 3. 78 liters (8 pints) Mopar NV 4500 Transmission Lubricant p/n 04874459

 

[Coalsmoke]

Dave, thanks very much, I didn't know that the 5th gear nut was an official TSB, this is good in my opinion as the shop will know that its a legit fix, if they haven't heard of it already. The only thing I'm unlcear of, do you know what the two brass little buttons are for? They appear to be about the same size in diameter as the set screws and about 1/8th inch thick.

 

[Woodenhead]

I'm pretty sure the brass buttons go in the hole before you put the screws in so the screw doesn't contact the thread.



Don't get your hopes up with the fancy nut. I had the same nut installed on my 4500 when getting the clutch done as a preventative measure and still lost 5th gear. It's a cheap preventative measure though and could buy some time with 5th gear.



The best fix for this if the box is already apart is the Torque King Main Shaft from Quad 4x4. Here's some good reading for you QUAD 4 x4 LLP Your 4x4 Experts



Good Luck.

 

[Coalsmoke]

Wow, thanks for the link to the info. That's a major PITA to think that you installed the fancy nut as a preventative measure and it then came off on you. Is it the Higher HP trucks that are having more problems? My truck is somewhere in the 200hp 450-475ft lbs of torque I figure, so basically sotck, and I haven't had the 5th gear issue, I just thought I'd also do some rpeventative maintenance. I found this part particularly interesting from the link you posted

If you have a high mileage transmission with 150,000 miles or more, we recommend you have it rebuilt instead of installing the Retrofit Kit. High mileage transmissions usually have excessive end-play which is a good indication the useful service life of the bearings is about over.

I think I'll just tell the guy doing the rebuild "hey, if you want to use it, go for it, so long as warranty remains intact, if not, no worries, I'll just take it back. "



PDR said that if my mainshaft is still in fine shape, then I probably wouldn't need to upgrade to the fancy fuly splined one, considering that my truck is essentially stock. After reading that info form quad, his advice sounds dead on the money.

 

[Doubleclutch]

I know you're not going to want to hear this, but the real fix is getting the fully splined mainshaft from Blumenthal. Look in the mag. for the advertisement. Our present 5th gear doesn't have a full set of splines under it and with the lower RPM/ high Torque jackhammering it, that gear eventually learns how to do the hula. An expensive TSB'd nut is displaced as a result. If you DON'T go with the new mainshaft, keep your 5th gear revs well above 1500 rpm.

Greg
Well, on edit, a day late and dollar short... AGAIN! Do keep the revs up in 5th gear though! A transmission is a torque multiplier, and that 400 ft/lbs is being multiplied through that narrowly splined shaft.

 

[JGrover]

If your truck is not already in the shop. I would call around. There are shops around that really know the nv 4500 trans. And install after market 5th gear nuts, or fully splined main shafts. If you use your trans guy, The fully splined mainshaft may be the way to go.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Standard Transmission & Gear can supply the nut, but the fuly splined mainshaft is the way to go. They can sell you this, or even a complete rebuilt transmission.

 

[JGrover]

Here is a company I found in the TDR magazine.

Standard transmission and gear co. Standard Transmission & Gear

PH# 1-800-783-8726

Looks like Joseph beat me to that imfo.

I think his truck is faster too

 

[Boomer II]

I've spit off every nut they make 4 times, they are NOT a fix!!

Quad 4X4 would be the way I'd go.

 

[Coalsmoke]

Thanks guys for the info. It seems that everybody has a different fix, and every manufacturer says the others are not the solution. I have PDR local to me, so I can get the fully splined mainshaft from them, but seeing how people still apparently have 5th gear failures with the updated mainshaft and the fancy nuts obviously are not the cure-all, I'll just leave it all be and get the other stuff changed out. I've got 250,000 miles on it with never a 5th gear problem, I suspect I will be fine. If for some reason I need a new mainshaft, I'll put the fancy mainshaft in, but at this point, I don't see the point as its not a gauranteed fix and I haven't had problems with the stock setup.

 

[JGrover]

Try over filling the transmission a little 1/2qt? Helps keep the gear lubed up better. Ive overfilled mine from day one. Know of a girl that hauls a 18k horse trl. She says she overfills her 5 sp. Nut was still on at 125k. Mines still on at 175K

 

[GAmes]

I've never heard of a nut coming off a fully splined shaft. I lost mine at 97k miles, totally stock at the time. 400+k miles later, with fully splined shafts, I have trashed some transmissions, but the nut has never come off.

 

[Coalsmoke]

I may have misread the information from the quad 4x4 site, but it seemed that it was saying that the fully splined shaft may help but is still no gaurantee that you'll be ok. It might just be that I'm having a hard time spending $250 on something that might work or might not or might void my trans rebuild warranty if there's a problem. I'm just trying to have a decently good transmission without over-spending my limited budget. Here's some info from teh Quad4x4 site that makes me think I might as well stick with the stock mainshaft all things considered.

First on the market was a shaft with splines that were made to provide a fairly light interference or press fit with the gear splines. This shaft design was introduced by Blumenthal Manufacturing of Oklahoma City. Next on the market was a shaft made for gear wholesaler Midwest Transmission of Zumbrota, MN. With this design, the shaft splines are near full length, but machined to be a slip fit with the gear. This shaft is grooved to allow a 3 piece thrust washer to be inserted between the gear and retaining nut. Both of these shaft designs received tremendous positive press coverage as permanent cures for 5th gear failures and were enthusiastically sold by almost everyone in the transmission repair business including us. Unfortunately, great confidence in these designs has not proven to be fully justified. While the percentage of 5th gear and related failures is probably lower with either full spline shaft design in comparison to the factory shafts, the cold truth is full spline shaft failures are occurring.

The other full spline shaft utilizes a thrust washer between the gear and nut. ...

This style of shaft is somewhat weaker than other designs due to the reduced shaft diameter at the thrust washer groove. Breakage is not common, but it does occasionally snap in high load situations. Despite the potential shortcomings, this shaft design is very popular with both professional rebuilders and shade tree mechanics because assembly is fast and easy without any press tools.

Now, let’s take a look at the press fit, full spline shaft. The theory here is longer splines are better, but the side contact, “flexible” spline with it’s limited spline to spline contact and large unsupported areas makes this design subject to the same types of failure as experienced with the factory mainshaft.

Of course, Quad says that their more expensive retrofit kit at $600-$720US has never failed and is the cure, but then they also say this,

If you have a high mileage transmission with 150,000 miles or more, we recommend you have it rebuilt instead of installing the Retrofit Kit. High mileage transmissions usually have excessive end-play which is a good indication the useful service life of the bearings is about over.

So this is why at the end of the day I feel like just hanging up the hat and tell the trans shop (or I might do it myself if I have the time) to do the bearings, syncrhos and seals to OEM specs and leave it at that. On top of this, I talked to a trusted source at a local diesel shop and he said that the nut was a good idea, but for a truck like mine where its not a big power monster, the stock mainshaft should be just fine. I appreciate the input guys.

 

[Forrest]

I've been REAL lucky. I lost 5th gear @ about 50k miles. I've got 180k on it now, haven't lost it a 2nd time. It's the Dodge fix ... whatever that is.

 

[Boomer II]

After having two vacations ruined I put in a 6 speed. Driving on I-40 in 4th gear through New Mexico pulling a trailer just ain't no fun!!

I did pay a shop to install the fully splined shaft on my last rebuild, found out 30K miles later and out of warranty that they put it back stock. My NV4500 is in my Jeep now, not a big deal if 5th goes in the Jeep, it rides on the trailer on the highway.