5th Gear nut

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I have a 95 2500 5spd, is my 5th gear nut going to come off?
Should I fix it before or after (preventative maintenance)it comes loose.
Thanks for the help.
Can't wait for Texas rally.

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95' 2500 standard trans. 2wd reg cab 120,000 miles bone stock but not for long I hope.

 

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I read lots of posts on this.

It appears to me if you are not towing a lot, do not have high hp enging, and are not lugging the engine in 5th you will probably be ok.

If you do any of the above you should probably fix it.

ends.


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1995 4X4 std cab 12 valve, original owner, 100k miles, banks stinger plus (14cm turbo, 3 1/2" exhaust, EGT and Boost guage, #7 torque plate in TST lingo, 215 injectors, AFC spring kit, Pscotty air on the way, 3. 54 rear, 17. 5" American Racing aluminum wheels, Mickey Thompson MTX's, Rancho's and Helwig on the way, Starcraft camper and assundry dodad's. Only thing faster than a 12 valve is my Ducati 4 valve

 

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I would run it until it fails ... . if it fails. Rarely does it damage anything. Most times the nut loosens and 5th gear just goes away like you pushed in the clutch. With 120K on the truck you most likely are not going to see the problem if you have not by now. Even if you do... you have had lots of trouble free transmission miles.

For every trucks that has lost 5th gear, their are 3 or 10 or 100 that have not.

If you want to do something, change the trans fluid. Send a sample of the old stuff in.

BTW, I have lost 5th 3 times and replaced my transmission.

jjw
ND

 

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I lost my 5th gear at 124,000ish miles. It did no damage, just quit pulling when I backed off and went to accelerate, it was like it was in neutral. I would just run it and not worry. The new nut design seems to be a lot better. It is an easy fix if your truck is a 2-wheel drive. The transfer case is a pain to manhandle back in. Plus two driveshafts and the t-case linkage. Maybe yours will last. there is no real way of knowing till it happens...

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1996 White, Extra-cab, 4X4, 5-speed, 4. 10 Model 80 rear, Laramie Pkg, Rickson 19. 5's w/ with Michelin 265/70 XZT's, 4" turbo-back full-straight pipe exhaust with through the bed stack, Mopar brush guard, "Psychotty Air", no silencer ring, Banks Boost & Pyro Guages 'tweaked' injector pump, 130,000+ miles
Rollin'-S 25-foot, 10 ton flatbed g/n trailer, with Vac/hyd brakes, 16. 5" tandem duals
'92 D350 Cummins, auto/OD, 3. 54, enclosed service body, 45,000 miles. unBOMBed as of now.

 

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My 2 cent's
Being my out of the box 96 bought for towing what ever, lost it's 5 th gear at 30k plus and a fellow TDR member lost his if i recall correctly around 65k only taking his fishing boat out once in a while. Pick a milage Higher than 50k and flip a coin . Best guess If you keep it in 4TH you may hit 200k befor failure . Has anyone out there tried this approch???
Why would anyone in there right mind buy a veh. for $$,$$$. with a overdrive and not use it when the eng has the guts to pull it'self down/up the road????????????????
Now having lived in the real world /been there done that,If i were you and you expect to keep this rig way beond nest year and/or many years behond pay off time(5 years) min.
I'd get my self down to the dealer and order
"THE NUT "that" LATEST FIX was replaced by.
YOU DON"T WANT THE SPLIT NUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I tryed it befor it went into production in July of 98 and was released in to the repair stream around sept/oct update,also i installed a new main shaft,upper and lower 5 th gear(lower being the idler gear)new shims and i must say it held in the same real world use longer than the OE. About 50k (an increase of 18k.
Still not good enough.
NOW lets back up -- lost nut at 32k-repaired (my fix got 260k using worn shaft threads and OE nut and OE 5th gear)Tryed the latest and greatest factory suggested repair with there nut/washer/gear With a new main shaft to be fair to the test- AND_ the shaft threads were worn at first failure(gear & nut spinning on top) + when my get it home fix came lose over 260k later it wiped the threads off the shaft which i knew it was comming lose 10k before (B-B's)in shift tower sound. How cared? I'd done some thing no one else had done (MILES)
OH YES, BEST ADD the eng was 215 from the factory and didnt turn up the power till around 230k having worked on cummins and knew something of warranty(printed & unprinted) wanted to be on safe ground. (ENGINE)
As of Jan I passed 720k have had my fix back in place for over 350k and not a sole can claim those miles and have not heard of any greater miles ,even with a Gear Vendors/aux add on $2500+ .
Back to the fix go to the dealer/or call 1-800 std tran. order the (before)- nut(pre-split nut/latest and greatest)tell the owner of the shop you are paying the bill so they MUST do and PROVE it, your way (picture/let you look before installing the rear cover)
Remember!! you are paying the bill.
How to do the repair--- remove drive line.
remove the rear cover. remove nut from 5th gear. Use starting fluid/brake cleen/or acctone to remove lube from shaft added measure blow dry threads with shop air,apply red loc tite (any # will work) latest# is 609
High temp (# not an issue) apply to threads of dry shaft and cleaned nut threads ,install torque to 300-320ft. lbs THEN WITH A HEAVY HAMMER 2-3 lb AND LARGE CENTER PUNCH GO AROUND THE LEADING EDGE OF THE NUT--(FRONT/NOSE)(END FACING THE DRIVE SHAFT)you want to stake nut to the shaft about 10 to how many times strikes your fancy--I did mine 20 -remember you don't want it to ever come off. $$$ depend on it.
"NOTE" If you have taken the main case down (everything out)make sure every thing is in place and seem to work thru gears before that last step. to remove the nut will require a die grinder with a small cutting disc & cold chisle and loving care to split the nut to remove with-out damage to the main shaft to remove. PIECE OF CAKE.
'NOTE'Takes a special tool to fit over the nut -round with with 4 off set teeth you spent over 20 grand for this rig whats $ 20 bucks and shipping from miller tools . WHEN DONE, rent it out to other owners/TDR members $10. +$20 refundible deposit?? Torque wrench needed 3/4 drive . will your D/C dealer have one ??? NOT.
Find a big truck repair shop,or an indenpent that can show you there's or,Nvstar-KW-Freightliner,Peterbuilt ect. Or D/Cshop which has torgue mulitipler(NOT) for there 1/2 drive.
You can't do the work if you don't have the tools... ... D/C's repair manual tell's them if you don't have the wrench strike the tool with a heavy hammer. like they torqued to correct spec"???????????
Re fill case with lube,I use 75w90 castrol snytec, have for over 700+ change every 100k
and have OE bearings and gears/syc still in side. Cost $7 qt at parts store or spend more at D/C. WHEN I INSTALL NEW SHAFT BACK pre 300k every thing looked great May be the same lube under different name??????
In short you need a super lock nut and it can not be made and then installed as it would strip the threads of the shaft or nut during instalation. . THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE MAKING AFTER INSTULATION.
Another note a great rip off is ongoing at some D/C shops that is them charging for a supposible off center pilot bearing in the flywheel to the tune of $650.
If you have been bitten ship me your old one and i will give you $80.
Even if they were you can bore it out,install a sleve to fit the make doomed to fail needle bearing. E-mail me for address.
This is from the real$$$$$$world.

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.