6. 0L Power stroke problems by Kyle Rapp
Well I sat down and read every thing I could find and the 6. 0 has a few problems.
First and foremost is the ICP sensor, it seems there is a very high failure rate, worse in cold claimants not only is the ICP a bad part, but, it is a real pain to replace and ford has flip flopped on how to replace it.
I made a socket and do it from the top, it works for me. I have also done it from the bottom, my problem is I can't always raise these trucks so from the top is the way for me.
Ford has a service action to replace this ICP and re flash the pcm, ficm. tcm all for 1. 4.
When doing this service action make sure you use a ICP with an EA and you re flash even if you have re flashed before and you must use the latest calibration on the b. 24 WDS.
Next there seems to be a problem with fuel in the oil and there seems to be multiple failures that cause this. one is the injector with a internal leak with fuel running out a weep hole and diluting the oil, another seems to be a broken fitting at the fuel rail and bad o-ring seals on top of the injector.
If you run into this problem FORD wants you to replace the turbo because the fuel diluted oil takes out the turbo bearings, they also want you to clean and drain the inner cooler or you could have a runaway, as for me if I ever get a runaway I will let it go, my personal safety is more important than that hunk of iron.
To find this problem you can use shop air and listen for the leak source or add dye to the fuel filter and run the fuel pump and with the valve covers off use your UV light to pinpoint the leak.
This engine also could have a no start condition this also could have a few reasons no oil pressure, leaky injectors, bad cooling fan, cam or crank position sensor, wires chafed behind one or more pulleys or bad EGR valve.
For the lack of oil pressure check the low pressure pump, it could be all scored up from a retaining clip from the injector hold down or the seal could be bad .
If the cooling fan shorts out then you lose power to the transmission range sensor and you get a no crank or no shifting of the trans.
On this motor the cam and crank sensors must work and be in sync or you will get a no start check wiring behind the feed pulleys for chafed wires then check sensors
FORD says an open EGR wont cause a no start or stall but it seems if you find one that is stuck open and replace it your problems are gone.
There are also other problems, you must cut the fan shroud to replace a drive belt,
The dipstick that you can’t read.
The water separator mounted on the frame rail.
The torque converter nuts that you cant see to remove or replace.
The lack of a way to turn the crank to get to the converter nuts .
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
by the way he has a bad back
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:-laf
