6/4.5" skyjacker lift....axle clocking

[JGrefenstette]

yes i no exactly what your talking about now, sorry to be so ignorant. ill have a closer look at it in the morning and see if i can visualise what you described. you did it because you thought there was real danger of it binding while in 4x4?

 

[puff1]

[ There is as I am finding out a very fine line to make a lifted truck drive perfectly. As for camber a 1993 W250 will have a factory setting of 0*. Maybe this will help...

View attachment 67730

In this spec sheet it does't really talk about the . 5*-. 75* difference in castor that I mentioned before. I talked to some of my people and will talk to few more before I weld the knuckles.

My truck was reading about +2* without the wedges, they are 5* wedges so I rotated my knuckles 5*, put they wedges back in and ended up back at +2* which is factory.

My only issue is the drive shaft. To get the perfect pinion angle vs. driveshaft angle I may have to add a couple more degrees of wedge. I would like to have no c. v. binding, which slightly occurs when the axle is hanging all the way down. I think it can get a little worse when articulation is involved off road.

If I do add a few degrees more I can simply rotate the knuckles a little more also :-laf

 

[JGrefenstette]

would a all aroung 4inch skyjacker lift mess up the drive shaft angle too much on a clubcab?? i believe i can get a block for the driverside kingpin for the steering. but i was wondering if the 4inch will be just as simple as the 2. 5 that i was planning on before. I think ill have to get shocks for the 4inch, where i probly wouldnt have needed to on the 2. 5inch.



and experience with the 4inch?

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

The club cab/crew cab/regular cab doesnt make any difference for the front driveshaft. The motor is always right above the front axel, and the transmission and tc are right off the back of it. If you had a divorced tc it might make a difference, but those havent been popular since the 70s.



You might be OK with the 4" lift. Take a yardstick out under your truck and find the point 4" down from where your front axel yoke is right now, the find the angle up to the tc from there.

 

[JGrefenstette]

ok so its mainly the front axle i have to worry about? if i drop the carrier barring accordingly i sould get by ok aslong as my front drivshaft angle is ok?

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

you may want to measure your rear angle also, you may not need to drop the carrier bearing. Here the fact that you have an x-cab long bed helps a little because it makes for a more gradual angle. Either way, theres also no issue in tipping up your rear axle, far as I know. Of course you have to weld new mounts on, but theres no screwing around with the caster angle.

 

[puff1]

Driving it again!!!

I am finally done my truck, I went with 3. 5 on the drivers side and 4. 5 on the passenger side. I had to replace the tie rod ends on top of everything. the truck drives better than factory now, it's a dream.

I installed a second/third gen stage 2 afe intake, I dont suggest any one else do it ever! Had to move the windshield washer container and a few other things. I also got the 4" down pipe installed, I wraped the turbo and down pipe with a wrap kit. This downpipe is the one with the bolt on elbow that goes on the back of the turbo, it sucked to, I had to use a bender and rebend my transmission dipstick tube to make it work. The good thing about it is my old downpipe had dual 90* bends in it and the new one has 45* bends which equals better flow. It's still just a hc-1 with a 12cm housing on it which means the outlet is 3. 5", I think to take full advantage of a 4" exaust you need a hx 40 which has a 4" outlet. But If I get one or a super b or somthing I can just splice the down pipe in to the one I have installed. Man my turbo sounds loud now, it spools so quick. This truck is a city truck so the small turbine housing is fine and gives me good hop off the line.

The only issue with my castor choice is allthough it stays dead straight you will lose a little bit in the corners, just tracks a little differently but only on a tight turn like a clover leaf or somthing. Oh ya I did my brakes (new calipers/rotors) and figured out why my brakes still suck... my stinking booster has a vacume leak and my master has a leak. When will it end? I will install new ones tomorrow and my buddie Rick from carline muffler is going to finish off my exaust. I also installed my sensors for transmission and pyro so as soon as the gauges are in I'm going for a dyno Just keeping you posted, will post pics soon.