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6.7 melted piston, 51,000 miles...Fram filter the cause???

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Code p0735 in 2010 mega cab 6.7

08 2500 stock lost power shut down on highway

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So here's the story. I have a 08 2500 Megacab, 6.7, Smarty S-67, with deletes, 51,000 miles (doesn't get driven as much as i want). Last month after about a hour drive, i pull off the highway with 2 trouble codes and a BAD KNOCKING sound. I am less than 2 miles from my destination so when i get there i track down the trouble codes- Cranckcase filter restriction x2. After a few phone calls, and a speedy driveway oil and filter change the decision is made to drive it back home. No loss of power, no loss of oil pressure, no overheating- less than 200 degrees all the way. Basically i get it to the mechanic later that week and find the #6 piston is melted, the connecting rod is blue from the heat on the piston end, and the wrist pin is seized in the piston. The heat damage is mainly to the bottom of the piston, and up to the rings, the top shows no injector related damage, nor extreme heat damage. The injectors were checked prior to the tear down and only #4 shows to be less than 100%. During the engine tear down, 2 pieces of rubber are found inside the oil journal of the crank on #6. Baffled my mechanic said they could have only got there from the factory. I don't see Cummins having this problem, and after we look them over much closer i believe they are remnants or scrap from a OIL FILTER GASKET. Since i have changed the oil every time and none of the gaskets have ever been damaged, a couple have stuck to the engine once the filter was off-but half of them do that, i believe the ONLY other way this could have entered the engine would be for these scraps to be inside the filter prior to being placed on the engine. I have used Fram filters on every oil change, and Rotella 15-40. This is my 3rd Ram with a Cummins and have NEVER had any engine issues. My theory on this is i changed the oil earlier in the summer, this is when the scrap got into the engine. I occasionally pull a trailer with a tractor, the weight is about 10,000#. I hadn't pulled this tractor since that last oil change, therefore hadn't "worked" the engine to that heat level, a lot of the miles on that truck are empty and highway miles, and when i did pull the tractor in the end of November i was in a hurry, not foot to the floor, but definitely pouring the fuel to it. This is when the piston got hot and the damage started. I had 2 shorts trips after that tractor day, then an hour driving at highway speeds 70-80.....boom. I have the filter than was removed and it has not been "cut" or opened yet, however i believe that whatever was in the filter fell into it at Fram's factory and would therefore no longer be in it anyway. Here are some pictures, the rubber scrap has a distinct curve and a couple flat sides consistent with a filter gasket, the thickness is also exact. Any opinions on how to get my $6500.00 back from Fram? Any other ideas where this may have come from?

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Wow, thought everyone knew not to use Fram filters on a Cummins. It has been mentioned many times on this site, a very hard way to learn.

Dave
 
I just noticed this is your first post, welcome to the TDR. You will learn a lot here. Pay attention to your fuel filters and recommendations of what to use as the fuel systems appear to be tempremental also.

Dave
 
Cummins even sent out a TSB years ago if my memory serves me correctly, specifically naming Fram filters as poor quality.

First things first, go buy a new filter just like yours and cut it open. See if there is another seal inside that could be the culprit......it will get more expensive from there. Fram will fight you tooth and nail.
 
Yes i still have the filter that i believe the problem originated from. I have heard people complain how bad Fram has always been, but in all of my vehicles i have never had an issue until now. I have changed over to Fleetguard on oil and fuel filters. I have always either used Mopar or Wix on fuel filters, although the first few years they were always special order or never in stock.
 
Yes i still have the filter that i believe the problem originated from. I have heard people complain how bad Fram has always been, but in all of my vehicles i have never had an issue until now. I have changed over to Fleetguard on oil and fuel filters. I have always either used Mopar or Wix on fuel filters, although the first few years they were always special order or never in stock.

My advice is to VIDEOTAPE the process of inspecting and cutting open the Fram filter. I think that yoiu are going to have a hard battle proving anything, but at least you have the mechanics word on the pieces of rubber and if you video the filter inspection and there ARE pieces missing that fit, you'll have a MUCHG better case against them. Unfortunately, your modified truck, particularly the Smarty programming runs against your interests if it comes down to a lawsuit.
 
It has been quite a few years ago, but Chrysler required the dealer to return the short or long block with the filter still intact. They then did a tear down and if the filter was the cause, the filter manufacturer paid Chrysler for the engine replacement. There were hundreds of them and that was why they issued the TSB with the approved filters. I would contact Fram and see what they have to say.
If the cylinder is able to be cleaned up with a hone, make sure you pull all the other piston cooling nozzles and flush out the oiling system before replacing the nozzles.
 
The original problem with Fram was bits of filter media plugging the wrist pin oil holes. That's when Fram changed the part number on the filter to an A suffix.
 
Plugging of the Piston cooling nozzles was the issue the TSB delt with and Fram was one of the ones listed on the Do Not Use list. Seems that the higher oil pressure at cold start up would damage the filter and blow it's broken guts through out the oil system scored pistons were the end result due to loss of piston cooling. You've got a good case document and photo everything and get a copy of the TSB. When you submit your claim make sure you keep copys of everything and dig your heels in for a long hard fight.
 
2 pieces of rubber are found inside the oil journal of the crank on #6.

Sorry to hear of your mishap. From your quote above, I'm assuming it was in the actual crankshaft itself? How was the rod bearing? I know another issue was debris such as the foil from the oil bottles getting into the piston cooling nozzles. Those pieces were some find!
 
Yes they (rubber) were in the crank, both pieces have a "polish" to them on some sides where they were rubbing the bearing. The piston oil nozzle on #6 was also partially plugged. The remainder of the engine was blown out and all was clean. I am fortunate to have an experienced Cummins shop nearby, numerous tear down and rebuilds. The remainder of the engine was pristine according to him, the #6 bearing had some slight wear, the rest of the bearings on the other rods were "good enough to be put back in the box an returned for a refund". he said the engine looked as if it had just been built. The #6 cylinder was honed to remove the aluminum, and had about .001 wear after the hone. He said the factory hatch marks were still visible on the other cylinders.
 
Just a couple of questions. Were you towing the tractor when this happened? What kind of EGT's were you showing when towing the tractor?
 
I believe the initial damage was done when towing, i had noticed higher water temps during that day for some reason, the day the knocking and trouble codes was the next time i drove it, about a week later.
 
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