Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) #6 plate

[SWendell]

I'm a new member and did extensive reading before installing a #6 plate which seemed to be the most aggressive plate recommended for my 1997 auto. Just curious why I saw no one else with the same #6 plate.

Any issues with the #6?



Also, cant seem to figure out what gears are in my CTD's rear end.

Am I just missing some info stamped on the truck? Maybe they are coded? (I dont have the original papers)

-----thanx

 

[crabman]

Welcome to the TDR SWendell!!!



Can't help you on the plates.



There is a stamped metal axle gear ratio identification tag that is attached to the metal housing. (Differential cover)

Tag Locations depend on what diff. you have. Models 60, 70 or 80.

Top left bolt, 11 clock position

bottom left bolt, 7 clock position

Between 8 & 10 clock positions.

Hope this helps you.

crabman

 

[JoshPeters]

I have a 6 plate in my truck. I had the 215hp Manual truck injectors and got 304hp and 767torque at the rear wheels. The plate seems to be pretty good for me. I'm going to go more aggressive before to long!



Josh

 

[BPonci]

Try a #10 plate and adjust your gov arm. you will love it.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Try a #10 plate and adjust your gov arm. you will love it.



I'll second that! A #10 is the most versitile plate there is, don't let that chart fool you.



Jim

 

[SWendell]

So ... the #10 is less restrictive than #6? Is that in the stock position or forward?

This #6 pulls great at highway speeds... 40-80mph, but low end is only marginally improved, even after backing the starwheel off and moving the afc to the front.

 

[mullady76]

This #6 pulls great at highway speeds... 40-80mph, but low end is only marginally improved, even after backing the starwheel off and moving the afc to the front.

I started with the same plate as you and my truck was dog off the line then took off when the transmission locked up in O. D. It wasn't a lack of power but my torque converter and transmission were slipping. I would put some upgrades in the transmission if you have some extra $.

 

[SWendell]

Originally posted by mullady76

I started with the same plate as you and my truck was dog off the line then took off when the transmission locked up in O. D.



sounds like exactly what mine is doing, Xmission upgrades are pricey, though. Minimum of... VB and TC?

 

[SWendell]

OK...

After some more thread reading and the ATS site I can see whats going on with my stock transmission. I see a $1500 hole appearing in my near future:--)



What have I gotten myself into!

 

[mullady76]

The valve body and T. C. are a good idea.

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by SWendell



Also, cant seem to figure out what gears are in my CTD's rear end.

Am I just missing some info stamped on the truck? Maybe they are coded? (I dont have the original papers)

-----thanx

On the under side of the hood near the secondary hood latch, there should be a small white sticker. It has the gear ratio, paint codes and other info on it.

 

[DBCooper]

SWendell, when I had my #6 plate installed, the shop didn't set the arm corectly. It was below the nose of the plate. After I got it home I made the adjustment to bring it up to the tip of the nose and it made a huge difference. To see what I mean about this adjustment, go to PDR's web site. There are instructions there. Now on to the #10!

 

[BPonci]

Just remember you will have to readjust your arm after you install the #10 plate. The nose on the #6 plate with the arm adjusted to the #6 will put you in the deepest part of the #10 plate.

 

[SWendell]

Can you easily see where the arm contacts the plate through the rear panel? Do you have pull of the intake to get to things?

Thanx--

Scott

 

[JJW_ND]

#10 rarely needs gov lev adjust...

If you did not adjust your govenor lever for your #6 you should not need to for the #10. It has a very forgiving profile that rarely needs the lever adjusted.



jjw

ND

 

[DBCooper]

You can see where the arm hits the plate by removing the afc and looking down thru the plate. The adjustment is from the back. A short screwdriver and a mirror are a must. Just a reminder, you have to rotate the fuel arm (throttle in a gasser) to make the arm hit the plate. It is a pretty easy adjustment. Piers site has a step by step on it, but I forget where on his site it is. It's easy to find.

 

[SWendell]

I appreciate the info guys...

Any tricks to do theses adjustments without having to remove the intake?

 

[DBCooper]

You don't need to take the intake off for any of these, just the AFC housing. That can be a little tricky as one of the bolts (the hardest one to get to) is a break off. I jammed a torx driver into mine and replaced it with a standard hex head when I was done with the work. There are quite a few threads about taking the AFC off, a search will provide you with way more than you want to know. Hope this helps.

 

[tgrfan2]

I just got my gauges on my 98. I like the #6 on my 95 though it will defuel around 2200 rpm. The 98 will pull to 2800 rpm now. I don't think I want to rev it much more than that. Do you think the #10 and GSK is still the best way to go or the #6. It seems most like the additional low end power of the #10, but isn't that harder on a stock transmission?

 

[BPonci]

Yes it is harder on your trans. But remember that the #10 plate and 3k kit is a great combo. You can adjust your arm to make your fuel curve custom to you. You also have your star wheel and your pre-boost adjustment to play with as well.