Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 6 spd ETH DEE problem

[daveshoe]

From standing start it is hard to get into 1st 2nd or reverse. Many times I have to put in another gear and then shift into these gears before starting out. I have always avoided idling at light with clutch engaged. Truck is 02 with 24K. Shifts fine once moving. Is this throwout bearing or any other ideas?

This ain't 911 yet ,but not getting any better.

 

[Sageair]

Have you checked the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder. It is a good place to start

 

[csevers]

Sound like the clutch is not fully releasing. The slave/master cylinder would be the first things I would check.



Craig

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

It's pretty typical for these trannies to be a bit more resistant to getting into 1st or reverse - just a matter of the design of the internal gates and extreme end-of-travel for the shifter. Unless it's REALLY hrd to get into those gears, hot OR warm, probably just the nature of the beast...

 

[tom sweeney]

after checking all the above mentioned,you MAY want to try a different fluid in the trans... . i switched to Red Line MTL syn. and 8oz. of Prolong trans treatment. . the transmission has NEVER shifted better !!!... . good luck, tom

 

[daveshoe]

Your kind replies prompted me to search the forums. I thought of the 6 spd as a trouble free transmission and was not aware that many others have this problem. I guess I associated these problems with the mad bombers and never thought it would happen to me this soon. I will try the easy and obvious stuff first, but it looks like a fluid change in the 5600 could not hurt.

BTW I used to totally abuse a little K2500 by starting out in 4wd lo range and then shifting to 2wd hi once the load got rolling. The clutch and transmission are still fine. [I am now hiding in a foxhole with flame suit on]

 

[d.miner]

Check your clutch adjustment and the fluid. Something is not right at that point. You will know if you change fluid and still have the problem.

 

[NVR FNSH]

Check the clutch slave cylinder throw - it's supposed to be >24mm. Mine is ~19mm and I have shifting 'problems'. I'll be replacing the slave cylinder this coming weekend - hopefully that will solve a large part of my shifting difficulties.



There is a small 'window' in the slave cylinder mounting flange that is just big enough for a piece of 14ga wire - I removed the slave cylinder, zip-tied the wire to the pushrod so that I'd get an accurate measurement and reinstalled the slave cylinder.



I changed over to RedLine MTL w/o any change in shifting smoothness.



Brian

 

[Rman]

Hey is that Gary that's back? Mine did the same thing, I changed to RP Synchromax and it shifts better, but I wouldn't say all the problems are gone. I'm beginning to doubt my pilot bearing now, feel it may be dragging and cause the transmission to turn making the synchro's struggle to align.

 

[AC]

I had a similar problem and found the slave cylinder to be the culprit. You can buy just the slave at napa for about $115 or the slave and master cylinder combo( Dodge recommended) for about $250 from the dealer. I cannot believe how much better my transmission shifts. Check it before you spend the money. The clutch pedal will feel a lot better too.



AC

 

[NVR FNSH]

I bought my slave cylinder from Smother's Auto Parts (800-550-1223)- it's Centric Parts #138. 67010 and was $56. 00. It is NOT the 'oversized' version - it is the stock replacement P/N for my '00 2500 w/6spd.



CentricParts can be contacted at 800-758-3004 or www.centricparts.com



Brian

 

[daveshoe]

Warmed up today--problem gone

Checked master and fluid level was fine and looked clean[looked like brake fluid] Temp was about 40 degrees and no problems. Problem was when temp was in mid 20's. No problem getting it in gear and upshifting OK [Upshifting was OK before in 20 degree stuff as well]. This sounds more like a transmission fluid change would cure the problem,but I could be wrong.

I went to Mother Mopar to price fluid for the NV5600 and they said 10. 65 a quart. I shook it and it seemed like about 10W30 weight. Told parts guy I would check condition of fluid and decide whether to change it out or not. I do not know how many quarts the beast holds, but for that price,I will listen to you guys about other choices. Just by logic ,it seems as though synthetic would be better as long as it is compatible with the transmission.

Gonna search some more and find the magazine article that deals with truck fluids. Also will keep my ear to the ground here at the TDR.