6 spd or auto, that is the question.

[Bertram65]

The HPCR engines do not make much power below 2000rpm. The EGTs are lower and less boost is needed running higher rpms as well. I see little or no difference in mileage if I am running at 1900rpm or 2500rpm empty, towing I only run up to about 2150rpm in OD, that is about as fast as I want to go, it is also better for the auto the higher the rpms. These motors can run at high rpms for extended periods without any problem, that is what they are made to do.

 

[Ereynolds72]

The HPCR engines do not make much power below 2000rpm.

Whoaah!



Here's a new wrinkle to the discussion. I'm likely going to be buying a new truck and am contemplating this auto vs. stick thing myself. There's been some great input here... Good stuff! Keep it coming.

 

[GaryCarter]

That's not a new wrinkle, and it's just not true.

Look up the torque curves for the newest trucks and compare the figures to the earlier models.



GC

 

[Mundgyver]

One thing to consider in your deliberations in what to choose should be the trade off.



With the manual 6 speed, how many times have you had to change out your brakes and what was the cost. How many time did you change out the clutch and what was the cost. On the long down hill run on a steep grade with a heavy load in the winter on ice, the ability to lock into a gear and hold a steady speed without braking.



With an automatic, no clutch do deal with but how many mile before you will be changing out brakes? On the long down hill run can you lock it up to a steady speed or do you have to keep touching the brakes?



Next question is MPG. Cost of fuel is hight these days. The old rowing box usually get a couple of miles better than the auto. Auto is better in freeway traffic jams. The manual is usually rated for a higher GVW.



How much towing, what kind of towing?



I have 157,000 and have 30% of my original factory original brakes left on the front rotors and 95% of my original rear drum shoes left. I still have my factory original clutch. When I pull, I'm usually in the 13,000 to 14,000 range but I will get up to 23,000 more often than not.



I have a friend that has an auto who used to kid me about having a short bed, saying it was a baby truck. He is on his 4th set of brakes and has not seen 100,000 yet.



Food for thought. Weigh the cost of repairs and frequency against your driving style and known data.



If you get a chance, take what every you normally pull with a manual and put it on the auto before you buy if you can and see how it feels going down the steepest grade you have done with your manual.



Food for thought. Good luck on your choice. If you have not guessed yet, I think you ought to stick with the 6 speed.

 

[Bertram65]

That's not a new wrinkle, and it's just not true.

Look up the torque curves for the newest trucks and compare the figures to the earlier models.



GC

Just not true? Maybe for light towing or empty you have enough power below 2000rpms.

Torque curves on paper do not mean anything in the real world, try pulling a big hill, like 3 miles with a 3-4% grade with something heavy in tow and start below 2000rpms and see what happens. I have done it many times and anytime I am below 2000rpms I lose speed and have to down shift, anything above and it pulls up the hill fine, real world experience not looking at graphs and speculating what it might do.

 

[klenger]

I don't think the issue is the torque curve below 2000 RPM, it's the power curve. According to the engine specs, torque is pretty flat from 1400 to 2800 or so. Problem is, it's not torque that moves the load, it's power, and power is directly proportional too RPM. The engine produces more power at 2200 RPM than it does at 1800 RPM for the same torque. I know this torque vs HP issue has been beaten to death here in the past, and I am in the minority in my position, but I'm sticking to it.



In any case, I love my 6 speed and would order a G56 in a heartbeat if I needed to replace my current truck.

 

[Ereynolds72]

That makes perfect sense about the power and where it makes it. I'll tell you what is ultimately going to make my decision... is the availability of a good 35" tire that is load range E. I don't mean to take this thread in a different direction but I want a 6 speed bad! But I do a lot of highway driving empty and I already know what it's like to have the high RPMs as my truck is an auto with 4. 10s. The 35s would bring things back into a manageable range but I'm hearing that the Toyo MTs are hard to get.

 

[BHolm]

One thing to consider in your deliberations in what to choose should be the trade off.



With the manual 6 speed, how many times have you had to change out your brakes and what was the cost. How many time did you change out the clutch and what was the cost. On the long down hill run on a steep grade with a heavy load in the winter on ice, the ability to lock into a gear and hold a steady speed without braking.



With an automatic, no clutch do deal with but how many mile before you will be changing out brakes? On the long down hill run can you lock it up to a steady speed or do you have to keep touching the brakes?



Next question is MPG. Cost of fuel is hight these days. The old rowing box usually get a couple of miles better than the auto. Auto is better in freeway traffic jams. The manual is usually rated for a higher GVW.



How much towing, what kind of towing?



I have 157,000 and have 30% of my original factory original brakes left on the front rotors and 95% of my original rear drum shoes left. I still have my factory original clutch. When I pull, I'm usually in the 13,000 to 14,000 range but I will get up to 23,000 more often than not.



I have a friend that has an auto who used to kid me about having a short bed, saying it was a baby truck. He is on his 4th set of brakes and has not seen 100,000 yet.



Food for thought. Weigh the cost of repairs and frequency against your driving style and known data.



If you get a chance, take what every you normally pull with a manual and put it on the auto before you buy if you can and see how it feels going down the steepest grade you have done with your manual.



Food for thought. Good luck on your choice. If you have not guessed yet, I think you ought to stick with the 6 speed.

You need to catch up on new options for the '06's. I have an exhaust brake on my '06 auto, I wont be replacing brakes very often anymore either. In addition since '05 there is a grade braking feature built in via the Tow Haul button. It is surprisingly effective but limited to 2,3,4th gears. There is no difference in tow ratings from manual to auto anymore. In 2001 the ONLY trans to buy was the six speed. Today it is a much different ball game. The 48re is probably stronger than the G56 (putting on flame suit :-laf ) and with a factory exhaust brake it is just as easy to haul in the hills with. I also do not see manula trucks getting better milage than auto trucks. The lock up convertor makes it pretty much a wash on the highway. As pointed out earlier, there just isn't a compelling mechanical reason NOT to choose one or the other now. Drive them both, pick what you like.

 

[Okie-Go]

I have an 01 2500 with 187k and a 6 spd. I traded in a 98 auto. My next one will also be a 6spd. I have had both and prefrer the manual for towing. In all this time I regretted the manual on one trip. In the traffic evacuating for the hurricane it was kind of tough taking 22 hours to drive a normal 4 hour trip. Drove an 06 3500 drw the other day. I really like it.

 

[puebla]

Heres my . 02 cents.



I work in downtown Los Angeles where theres a lot of traffic. I thought of buying a new truck with an auto for the convenience of driving in heavy traffic. When I purchased my 05 CTD 3500 NV5600 3. 73 QC LB SRW Laramie, I thought the transmission was going to be a pain in the neck in traffic. Suprisingly enough, the truck shifts fine, no issues... for those that contemplate driving in heavy traffic with a six speed, theres no worry. Both the G56 and the NV5600 are relatively easy to drive in traffic, day in and day out.



If you're into towing, hauling @ss and eventually want to bomb the truck, get a 6 speed. If you want to keep the truck stock, and don't really tow all that much, get the auto. Remember, it cost alot more $$$ to bomb the 48RE than to upgrade a 6 speed transmission.



Good luck.

 

[Mundgyver]

BHolm,



I'm caught up I know there are lots of new options and neat transmissions with lots of ability out there. But as with all innovations, the more technically involved a piece of equipment becomes, the more we lose the ability to fix it, if it breaks down. All things break and usually at the most incoveniant time, snowy pass at 2 AM, 200 miles from no where.



I like good strong, simple, straight forward equipment, that gets the job done and then goes back for more. I'm not saying that the new stuff is bad, it is just getting more expensive all the time. The more expensive it becomes, the deeper into the pocket book it bites when it breaks down. For me, I have everything I need tool wise to fix any problem that occures on my rig. From brakes to transmission, engine to axles, bumper to bumper, I am my own warranty station



The new stuff is very nice, I should know, I own some of it also, but I like the rowing the gears, working the grades and enjoying the art of driving no matter the weather and the view of country that I have seen and new country that I have not seen.



New technology is good, the older technology is why we have the newer technology. It all boils down to the elvolution of the truck we all love to drive and work on. Darwinism at it's finest

 

[TowPro]

I ordered the 6 speed for 2 reasons. No high stall speeds and MPG gains of the 6 speed (at least it works that way when I am driving one)

 

[dzltrqcrzy]

I have the 48RE and changed the TC to a lower stall one. I like the way the truck drives now. Couldn't stand the 2800rpm stall.

Still not quite like a standard as far as the feeling of being 'in gear' at all times but much better than stock.

I may go the 6spd route next time though.

My commute to work is about 15 mi, 50/50 city/hwy. I know that most start in 2nd from a stop, but what about in 3rd with a bit of throttle/clutch slipping ?

I know it will wear the clutch some, but I'd trade that off for convinience (one less shift to 6th)