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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 6 speed will not go into any gear

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Little to no boost on 12V

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transgo Solenoid Fix?

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Stock clutch slipped several times. Thought it was time for a new clutch. While all this was happening, I noticed that the transmission would not shift into any gear including reverse. Ordered a SBC clutch assembly for a 2000 SO with the 5600, upgraded to the 13 inch clutch. I then had a local shop install the clutch. After installation, the transmission would not shift into any gear at all! We then installed a hydraulic clutch assembly. Same problem. We then pulled the transmission off and installed a new clutch fork(there was some distortion on the fork, but not much). Same problem. Now they are saying that the sycronizers(sp. ?) are worn. Can this be the problem? It will not go into any gear at all, while the motor is running. It will go into gear when motor is off. I would hate to put a new transmission in after only 147,000 miles. P. S this is my first post! Thanks.
 
The synchronizers are doing what they are supposed to do, keep the gears from meshing if they are not turning at the same speed(synchronized). Your clutch is not releasing completely or the pilot bearing in the flywheel is not allowing the input shaft of the transmission to stop turning. It is not that unusual for a new clutch to drag a little when first installed. I installed a clutch one time years ago with the wrong side toward the flywheel, didn't work too well. I don't know what your problem is. If it is possible to start the truck with the transmission in gear it might be possible to "clean the edges" off the new disc if everything else is correct but it might also run through the back of the garage if the clutch won't release at all. Good luck. bg
 
I hope that for the money I spent for the clutch, I wouldn't have to wear in anything. Can all the synchronizers be out on all the gears?
 
I hope that for the money I spent for the clutch, I wouldn't have to wear in anything. Can all the synchronizers be out on all the gears?

It would be possible for all the synchronizers to be out at one time but very unlikely. If the synchronizers were out, the transmission gears would grind/clash when you tried to shift, or in this case when you tried to put it into gear. bg
 
Put the truck in gear, clutch depressed and them start it - make sure you have clearance around it in case it wants to lurch, be prepared to shut it off immediately.



If it does want to take off, with the clutch depressed, I would suggest looking at the clutch slave cylinder, and verifing acctuating rod travel and pressure.



There is a lot of info in these threads on doing that and replacement options.



Good Luck :),



HP
 
jack up the back wheels, engine off, turn the back wheels with transmission in netural, put in gear(s) and they should not turn, have someone depress the clutch while in gear(s) and the wheels should turn again. This should point to a clutch or master/slave cylinder issue. Also look at the hydrolic line (pinched, bent, soft) just like a brake system.
 
Installed a new master/slave cylinder assembly (Carquest). Still the same problem. Shop says it's the transmission. I'm still not convinced that is the problem. What length of stroke should the slave cylinder have?
 
Pull the trans and put spacers under the pivot ball about 100 thousanths that will give you that much more throw on the clutch throw as the clutch is not releasing completely
 
Power is still getting to the transmission with the clutch "disengaged"

If the input shaft/transmission was not aligned when it inserted into the clutch/pilot bearing it is possible to damage the pilot bearing enough to cause it to drag enough to rotate the input shaft even when the clutch is disengaged.

But..... if I were you... . (don't you hate that?) ;-)

I would check to make sure that the... .

1. Friction plate is not in backwards
2. Friction plate is able to slide smoothly on the input shaft splines
3. Release fork is not in backwards (it is not symmetrical and will not fully disengage the clutch if installed incorrectly)

It's a pain because it requires the transmission to come out again to check.

(btw, the odds are that the transmission is just fine. It's unlikely it grenaded itself while the clutch was being replaced)

Hope this helps
 
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