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6 speed with 4:10

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I am replacing my 99 2500 SWB 4X4 Auto 3:54 because I want the HO with a six speed for towing reasons. Spent some time towing 8000 lbs trailer in the mountains and was not happy with the braking performance. The towing performance uphill was acceptable but braking was unacceptable.



So... now looking for a HO 6 speed combo (no HO in NY for 2004) so it has to be a 2003. I have found a new 2003 with 6 speed and 4:10. No luck on 6 speed with 3:73.



Any feedback? I have searched a bunch and suspect that the 6 speed and 3:73 might be a better fit. Anyone out there with the 6 speed 4:10 combo doing day to day driving... how is it?



Thanks
 
Have the HO 6spd w/4. 10 in both my 02 & 03. I tried the 3. 73 but just didn't feel as good as the 4. 10. We pull 5th wheel trailers weighing anywhere from 6,000-19,000 lbs with these trucks and they do one hell of a job. I HIGHLY recommend that you get a exhaust brake for your truck. I would never pull again without one. Both trucks have the pac brake exhaust brakes. I had the dealer install the brake on the 03 as a deal maker, I would have had them put it on but the dealer said they would put it on if it came down to losing the sale or getting the sale. I am a firm beliver that the dealers make too much off us anyway.



Derek
 
I have pulled our 32 travel trailer twice with mine. I was really impressed with how it acted. It felt like it didn't even break a sweat. I also drive about 800 miles a week and have been getting around 17-18 mpg with that transmission/rear set up on a 4x4 dually.
 
I'm happy with the 4. 10, getting 19-21 without the trailer and 14-15 with a 9000# load.



If I never towed, I'd get a 3. 73, but this rig blew over the I-64 grades in West VA at 70+ with about 19,000 GCVW. The 4. 10 put me in a powerful spot for towing.



Since it is quicker to top out in the gears empty I just shift 2-4-6. And ditto on the exhaust brake!
 
opinions

Harry,



Here's my experience with my '01. 5 HO with 6 speed, 4. 10's, and 36" tires: I find myself looking for 7th gear! If I had it to do over, I think I would have opted for the 3. 54's and just added more power. :D Mine is a daily driver with occasional trailer and when I have been forced to run with the stock tires, it is not enjoyable to drive (at least not as much ;) ) Around 17 mpg in normal driving - more if I can manage to keep my foot out of it.



Anyway, my opinion (and it's only that), would be to opt for the 3. 73's. Oh - and the exhaust brake is the first modification required! It's by far the biggest thing I miss when I have to drive something else.
 
I just bought a 2003 Quad cab/shortbox 4x4 with the HO and a 6-speed and 4. 10's. I've yet to tow with it but I'm getting 20. 5 mpg unloaded driving normally at 50-60mph on country hilly roads to work every day. Hammering on it nets me about 16. 5 mpg.



This is my first diesel (and mopar!) and I really love this truck!



Andy
 
If I remember right, 65 mph is 2100 rpm and 70 is around 2300. I use my truck as a daily driver only right now and I would honestly have preferred the 3:73 ratio. I had a '99 with an auto and 3:54's and I could cruise at 1900 rpm and 70 mph. I felt like I was winding this truck out just doing highway speeds. I'm sure it's not hurting it at all, but it would probably be best for towing. I'm going to eventually put some 33" tires on it which should help some. I'd consider a gear change if I'm still not happy with it after the larger tires.
 
you dont need low gears if you add a little more power like the ez box! low gears are there only to replace power or tall tires.





i got the 3. 73 and 35" tires and i think it is perfect. with or without the edge box it is perfect pulling 8000K
 
Originally posted by CATCRACKER

read what bruce mallison has to say about gearing in a diesel. it is a long read but it makes for good info. in this info he discuses gearing in a diesel.



here is the link: http://www.dieselinjection.net/articles.html



Unfortunately, this info is written for the earlier engines, which would not rev to 3200+ with ease.



My engine exhibits peak power (bombed) from 2000 to 2600 rpm. 70 mph = 2250 RPM. That was near top on the older stock engines; I recall that merging on a ramp with my '98 stock 12V/automatic and 12,000 lbs on back was- well, It was just not fun.



So I'm happy with the 4:10, because I tow semi-heavy. Even after reading the article, I still revert to the old sage; if you tow heavy (over 8000 lbs) get the 4:10; no tow = get the 3. 73; in-between tow weights- your call, but the 3. 73 will likely be just fine and save you fuel.



Jh
 
Catcracker is right. When your engine is making peak torque at 1500-1700 rpm, the lower gears aren't helping unless your accelerating through the gears with VERY HEAVY loads (like a bulldozer or something). 3. 73's will be just fine and save you fuel. Check out Bruce Mallinson's articles! He's the man!!!! His shop is legendary in trucking circles. "Where the strong ones come from"--------yeah buddy!!!!!
 
If you don't plan on adding larger tires, the 3. 73's will get the job done. I've towed with it stock and with staged power upgrades, and with stock tires, the 3. 73's work anywhere.



Now if you don't opt for a dually, and want to go to larger tires, the 4. 10's and 35's will match well on a SRW.



With the 19. 5 wheels and 34. 5 inch tires I'm running now, the 3. 73's are very nice, even while towing. I have certain situations where I have had to downshift while towing my gooseneck with a truck on it, but with the stock tires, not had to.

The additional weight of the 19. 5's accounts for part of that.



Ditto on the exhaust brake, gotta have it.
 
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I haul 10K with 3:54's, Rickson's and a GV plus and EZ. Often in OD but rarely below 6th. Sucker flies. I would hate 4;10's. geusterman
 
I would not want 4. 10s I had em once for over 300,00 miles and I always wanting and needed one more gear. I towed 100 % of the time grossing #26,000lbs.



You can always shift down, but when you run out of gears at the top end it's all over.
 
go with 3. 73,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, driven them both,,,,,,,,,, you can feel the engine work better with the 3. 73,,,,,,,,,,, i wish the has 3. 73 in 97,,,,,,,, 4. 10 is to much but 3. 55 is not quite enough
 
I bought what was on the lot. I just drive 600 miles at 70/72 mph tops. Averaged 15. 9 tops. 4. 10 are a bit much but when I put 10k behind it I don't regret them. I want some 19. 5 and it will drop gearing to about 3. 66 then.
 
Originally posted by CATCRACKER

you dont need low gears if you add a little more power like the ez box! low gears are there only to replace power or tall tires.





i got the 3. 73 and 35" tires and i think it is perfect. with or without the edge box it is perfect pulling 8000K





You wouldn't say that if you hooked onto my 40' gooseneck at 22,000# I bet... ... :rolleyes:



It all depends on what you are doing, I got the 4. 10's because I flat out want to tow and never look back. I also drive it every day back and forth to work which is around 50 miles round trip. Also take long trips on the free way crusin at 80 no problem. You loose a little on milage but the 4. 10's are going to pull better then a 3. 73's. But the difference from the 3. 73's to the 4. 10's is not as huge as it use to be going from 3. 54's to 4. 10's, glad they added the 3. 73's in 2003.
 
It was easy 3. 73's= 21,000#GCWR, 4. 10= 23,000# GCWR. Gooseneck is a 14,000# GVW trailer. 3500SRW HO/6sp 9900 GVWR. Add them up it can be as heavy as 23,900# without exceeding GVW on either vehicle, exceeding GCWR by 900#. With 3. 73's that is 2,900# overweight. So if I load properly I can run within nameplate specifications. Not that I have ever been given a problem, but a lack of problems with neatly dressed men with NO sense of humor is a good thing. My stock ride is running about 2,000# overloaded with the backhoe on the gooseneck.
 
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