60K mile 5.9L won't do 60mph ?

[MojaveJoe]

I've been eyeing a low miles 2004.0 pre-smog 5.9 Ram 3500 recently. The dealer wanted $30K for it because it was in immaculate condition. As it was 400 miles from me, I hired a local mechanic/inspector to take a look at it for me, before making the dealer an offer. Darn glad I did to. The mechanic told me he could not get the truck to do over 55mph, no matter what he tried. He thought it might be injectors or something else. I suggested might be the electronic throttle positioning sensor (as mine did this at 100K). When he told the dealer of this finding the dealer said he'd have his diesel tech fix it before selling it. My mechanic is supposed to talk to the tech when he is diagnosing the problem, and get back with me on their combined opinion.

By way of background this truck averaged only about 6000 miles per year since it was born, 11 yrs ago. Im wondering if some kind of diesel bug/contamination has grown in the tank and is clogging the filter, fuel lines or ? Last fuel filter change about 800 miles back.

In addition, the cruise control was only working intermittently while driving, and the truck honked erratically while backing up (yes I told him about the back up warning horn recall).
My Mech said it might be the clock spring in the steering wheel that is causing both problems, horn and cruise problems. There is still an open airbag recall on the steering column bag, but is the clock spring also part of the repair for 3500s? Might make for an inexpensive fix on my end of a purchase?

What the heck else could be wrong with this 'alleged' cream puff? Oh Yah. The electric motors on both power seats are out. Im glad I paid to have it inspected now.

Should I buy it or not? If it was in pristine condition it actually will high book at $30K KBB cuz it's loaded, but now Im thinking maybe $25K?

 

[Wayne M.]

Yes these trucks are incredibly high on resale. I'm coaching my bro in law into a 2nd or 3rd gen truck similar to this with similar results. I blame the dealer for not vetting the truck before putting out on the market.
I don't know your location, but I believe there is a decent supply of trucks all around, but the prices are nuts. It sounds like you have skin in the game already- I'm sure your mechanic is not working for free, but I'm not too sure how far I'd push this.
With the power issue, you have good ideas- especially with the fuel system, but the electrical can be scary. You don't know if/ not this has been hacked up real bad.
Any good tech using the right equipment should have this sorted out in short time, but I fear it may turn into "Something about Mary" and you'll just have to go see yourself and make a decision.

 

[Tuesdak]

Dealer is to fix the things found wrong before delivery period. Don't buy a lemon... Just get the known things fixed first - otherwise buy from a private party. Even a private party should be willing to take it to the dealer to have it checked out and repaired. Get a good warranty if you can.

Had a 20 year old truck taken into a dealer before I went to get it. Dealer fixed leaking radiator and cruise control on my dime. Both required for a long trip. Sadly the trans was going bad and failed 2 days after I got it home with a loud boom as things went through the OD gear section. ($1100 rebuild lasted for 50K used hard towing every day.)

Figure $2000 in repairs for any used pickup.

 

[EGroeneveld]

Bottom line is don't buy until everything is fixed......or you know exactly what is wrong and how much it will be. But if's know and easy fix then why did they not fix it? Is what I always ask......

I test drove a Ford Excursion a year ago and they didn't want me going on the HWY, so I did, the steering was so bad couldn't keep it in the lane. Last I heard they had a new steering box, new steering stabilizer, new front shocks in it..... but as they fixed things they got tougher on the bidding so I walked.

And the Excursion had brand new tires on it, that is a big give away for front end issues.

 

[Wayne M.]

Yup, waaay back when first Durango shopping, I spotted what I was looking for at a Dodge store. A lease turn in sold from there- local truck. I noticed it wasn't too clean and I said I would come back if they wanted to spiff it first, but they were ready to show it.
Well we all pile in and I get out on the main road. Yup, OD was NOT there. I follow through, and when I got back, I looked under the hood and yanked the stick. The ATF was muddier than CTD engine oil. At that point, I realized they would show anything. The salesman wasn't a bit put off- wouldn't even bargain.

 

[Ozymandias]

Should go close to 100MpH, a least mine does it on german Autobahn.

 

[Bob4x4]

Speed limiter is 112 on 05,Smarty fixes that

 

[Wayne M.]

Governed speed is related to tire ratings.

 

[seafish]

Speed limiter is 112 on 05,Smarty fixes that

Is that a selectable or preprogrammed parameter on the Smarty?

 

[MMeier]

Speed limiter is 112 on 05,Smarty fixes that

What was it originally on an early '03? Mine topped out at 116 , GPS verified !

 

[Motorhead]

Maybe a dumb question but was the check engine light on? I have an aftermarket turbo and once the check engine light came on and it was the LOW BOOST code. I was towing witha strong tail wind. Truck would not go over 60mph.
My fear to you is that you buy a truck from a dealer that is 400 miles away and what kind of "Patch job" are they going to do to get it off of their lot? I agree to keep looking and buy private party and hopefully get service records. For what they are asking, the truck should not have any issues in the first place. Your money was well spent having the mechanic check out the truck for you first.

 

[MojaveJoe]

My Mechanic said the truck had no fault codes registered. So, presumably the problem with the engine is not too serious.

Still Iam skeptical about this dealers honesty. When it is fixed I think I will ask him for the name and number of his mechanic. If he won't give it to me I will assume he's lying about the repairs he did and the engine condition and I will move on.

 

[Tuesdak]

Check engine light means something EPA Smog related is so bad it can't ignore it and has to turn the light on. Some codes don't trigger a light like transmission faults on some years/makes. You can have serious expensive problems and no check engine light. After all the ECM is proof we have conquered 'artificial stupidity' for computers. Even an ECM failure can prevent the light from going on in addition to other failures.

Electric seat motors are a $500 pop for a seat frame each side. Could also be stripped plastic gears same cure $500 a pop each side unless you order the labor intensive 2men1garadge parts to DIY.

For the Price, age, and miles it had better be perfect.

 

[rashwor]

If you are in doubt about the dealer's honesty, walk away and be very happy you did! This smells funny to me. I would walk and tip the mechanic a little extra for his time. He was worth every penny on this.

 

[MojaveJoe]

Good News...I think?
My mechanic found out the diesel garage that fixed the lack of power issue diagnosed the problem as a bad lift pump relay. Apparently these relays can be intermittent when they are going out.
My mechanic said it only showed up upon heavy acceleration, possibly why the dealer didn't notice it. If this problem is truly fixed Iam inclined to buy this truck, identical to mine and with extra low miles (60K).

So, if this was truly the problem, did the lift pump relay do any damage to the motor when it was starving the motor for fuel during high demand/heavy throttle?

 

[Wayne M.]

I'm sorry but I don't think I buy that diagnosis but anything is possible. Find out if it has the updated lift pump in the tank. Theoretically starving the CP3 pump would cause damage, but not sure if they're susceptible.

 

[Bob4x4]

What I see a lot on the retrofit pump kits is the b+ terminal corroded = voltage drop to the pump

 

[Bob4x4]

Is that a selectable or preprogrammed parameter on the Smarty?

It is selectable, up to 199 iirc. I have mine set to 140

 

[seafish]

It is selectable, up to 199 iirc. I have mine set to 140

Thanks…gonna try 199..JK.

 

[MojaveJoe]

I don't believe this truck has had the lift pump go out yet. Still working with the original equipment at 60K miles. The truck never stopped running, so presumably it always was getting adequate fuel up to 55 mph. Seems unimaginable that the injector pump was being abused if it never got over 55 when in fault mode?

Dirty elect terminals could have caused the problem IMO. Maybe more likely even if already converted. But this truck sat around a bunch in AZ, likely garaged.

Iam asking the question.....in case Iam missing any potential trouble caused by an under-performing lift pump, So I can check it too before handing over the check.

All ideas welcome.