Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 7:00a.m. suprise

[DPyles]

Hello everybody, I got home last night bout 1:30a. m. and went to sleep only to get up in the morning to see a oil slick under my truck. several good size pools. motor oil I believe. front of engine dry, but back under trans is soaked. Rear main? Are these prone for failure? oddometer tickling the 150,000 mark. big job to take the trans/transfer out? I mean bigger than a gas 4X4? I have done few of those. Going to do a major refresh on the truck. what are your suggestions for part replacement. going to tab my kdp. so front will be apart as well. Another question, does the cummins need to be supported when taking the trans out? I am assuming it will. any of the fuel lines need to be disconnected for this procedure? What items on front of truck need should be replaced? Is the timing something I could check and advance myself. If I need to take gear case off, I have read that the cam gear can be removed by heating it. is this a good method? might even upgrade the valve springs. What springs do I look for. Intake/exhausst?

Any further help or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Am I biting off moer that I can chew here? Most of the work I will probably have to do alone as I work a stupid shift.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I did my rear main seal with Dad's help... .



You'll spend a lot of time messing around with those transmission cooler lines - so prepare to swear at them for a while.



We pulled the transmission/x-fer case as a unit. The engine can chill out just fine without any support. Spreading the frame to get the transmission support out is a must - we used a bottle jack and a piece of 4x4" wood block.



You have to pull the starter, flexplate and the bellhousing adapter once you get the transmission out of the way.



While I was in there, I replaced my transmission lines with super heavy duty flexible hydraulic hoses... . no worries there, and they're easy as pie to deal with.



The front/top of the motor doesn't even need to be touched... . worry about the big leak at the back first. Mine was leaking when I bought it - and I let it go for over a year - it never did just fail, but I got lucky.



It is a big job - especially if you have to roll around on your back. If you do want to tackle it... . take your time.



The rear main seal on these things are bigger than the diameter of the exhaust of most trucks... .



Matt

 

[DPyles]

holeshotholset

do you have a part number for those flexible lines and where did you purchase them?





Where is a good place online to get the parts I need, The dude behind the counter at my local cummins dealer can't find his butt with both hands.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

To make up all the flexible lines your best bet is to take your old ones out of the truck... . clean them up (don't want to get oil everywhere... . and I do mean EVERYWHERE!), and take them to a place that can make the lines up.



I used 1/2" hose rated for like 5000 psi - and JIC fittings all around. Cost less than $100 for everything. But, if you can't get a break on the fittings it will cost a bit more... ... the hose is cheap, though.



These types of lines are most often used for tractors and any other hydraulic equipment..... and they've been on my truck and Dad's for well over a year without any issues. Just make sure to route them around any danger areas.



I got my rear main seal through Chrysler - they had it the next business day..... it was like $60 or something like that.



Matt

 

[BFaoro]

replace

While the transmission is out you can replace the return line . Should be much easier than with the transmission in !

 

[SMorneau]

Do not spread the frame. The cross member will come out by driving it towards the rear with a big dead blow hammer. It doesn't come down at all until it clears the mounting area on the frame and once you clear that it will come right out. Alternate sides on the pounding. No frame tweeking! Pound the other way when you reinstall.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Don't spread frame to remove x-member?!

SMorneau: You might want to forward this information onto all of the transmission vendors... .



Matt

 

[Joe G.]

The cross member won't come out after it is behind the tapered places in most trucks. I made a frame spreader from a small screw jack and the upright from a bumper jack. I found the little screw jack at second hand store for five bucks. It has a half inch drive so my ratchet works fine as a jack handled. Welded a flange on both ends of the bumper jack piece. Works like a champ. Just spread the frame enuff so the cross member will slide back easy and come out. It's kind of awkward so don't drop in on yourself. Smarts a bit if you do that