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7 pin socket wiring

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4 Wheel Low Range Lockout switch

Mom and I will be picking up the trailer on Monday and I am having trouble wiring up the 7 pin socket. I've been trying every site possible to no avail. The problem I am having is with the numbers 5 & 6 on the socket, 5 is stop & left signal and 6 is stop & right signal. when these wires are connected and the turn signal is on all is fine till you step on the brake, the turn signal stops.



Also where should the #4, battery charge, connection go to, battery +? With a fuse?



Man oh man I gotta get this done, I



I got my truck used, its a '95 3500... seems like it should come standard with a tow package, the relay and fuse are there but I don't find any plug towards the back.



Thanks in advance,

Mike
 
Mike:

Remember on a 12V system the ground is probably the most inportant part of the hookup.

Make sire there is a good chassie ground. When you see turn signals blink on a trailer opposite of the turck, that is the ground from the trailer. You sound nervous. Slow down and think this through.

The 4 pin goes to battery on the trailer. It charges much better than the convertor on the trailer. About 10 more amps.

Also do you have a brake controll yet. Make sure it is correct in the wiring. That will get you too.

If youdon't find the trouble I'll do more research.

:( :( :(

Good luck.

Preston
 
Preston, The truck has a controller, all tow wiring was rolled up and tied to the underside of the truck when DC replaced the frame due to cracking spring perches.



Off the controller are two wires, one will brighten and dim a test light as you turn the controlers adjustment. So thats the brake the other goes to an added 30amp fuse. Basically the two make a loop with a fues as well as the controlled in that loop. I just can't figure where the wire that seems to bo dead goes.



On the. bat charge wire, would you need a relay in that line to avoid discharging the trucks batterys when parked?



I know I putting out a lot of questions, but this is the first TT for us and I don't want to mess things up.



Mike
 
7 pin connection

Sounds like you have the wiring right, just bad ground to trailer. If the truck was factory wired for the tow package, the hot wire to charge the batt. is only on when the ign. is on, otherwise, yes you will need an isolator or something to keep from running the truck batt. down while parked. The brake controller(at least the ones I have used) should have four wires coming from it, the black is +12v, the white is -12v, the red goes to the stop light switch and the blue goes to the trailer brakes. bg
 
I don't think I can be of much help on this one. I usually figure out the electric stuff as I need to know, and forget it when I'm done. :(



I'll mull over this and see if I can think of anything that will help you.



I agree with these guys that you should make certain of the ground, because a bad ground is usually the cause of some strange light action.



That's an excellent site you found there Gitz. I'll have to bookmark that so I can use it next time I have a wiring problem.



Doc
 
B G is right on. My Tekonsha does not show it's working till I hook up. Then the green light comes and stays on.

With all the wires tied in a knot search them out. There is your trouble. .

Preston:)
 
B. G. , I have the factory tow package and my battery charge wire is still hot with the ignition off. Previous truck was the same. Perhaps it was changed on later models but my tow package wiring diagram shows hot all the time. For those like mine, you can either pull the plug, add a relay or a switch to disconnect the charge line when parked.
 
almost.....got it

O. K. , I got all the lights figured and ready to go to the socket, ground directly to frame, bat charge line direct to battery+, all is ready with the exception of the brake.



There are 2 wires that concern the electric brake at the back of the truck... keep in mind this is the truck that had a new frame stuffed under it and all trailer wiring was disregarded. One of the two will vary in current as the controller knob is turned.



Why are there 2 wires? The socket has a ground (10 GA), would the brake circuit have its own ground?



On tapping the lighting circuits I question the fact that the factory wires are 16GA and the socket recommends using 14GA... hope it doesn't cook something. . I'll hit the book and see the draw on these 16 GA wires.
 
956Wheel:

This may sound a little weird but I had to wire into the 3rd brake light for mine to work. That tells the controller when to energize the magnets at the wheels. The wire that varys is the adj. knob on the controller.

Preston
 
Preston, The wire that varies in current as the controller knob is turned... . is that the wire that goes to the #2 position on the socket? Seems right.



I just can't figure where that other wire from the controller goes and I don't want to have to "let the smoke out" of the controller.



Color codes no longer apply, so you got to go by what a wire does.



Maybe this isn't new, but what I did to find out what a wires function is hooked up a car alarm siren, (stuffed with a rag) to the wire in question and when it sounds you found that circuit, saves a lot of time.
 
95:

I'm looking at the instructions that came with my controller and it says for the Blue wire to trailer plug, White to ground, Black to battery,they say "auto. reset circuit breaker", and the Red one to the 3rd break light wire. Thats it. If that dosen't work I'm at a loss as where to go.



I hope this will help you get going.



Preston
 
Preston, On that blue wire, does that go from the contoller to the socket. My color codes are no longer.



Mike



Thanks for pulling the papers out... appreciate it!!
 
95:

Yes, the blue goes to the trailer plug connection, one wire contoller to plug.



You got it! Now you can go get the trailer.



Preston:) :) :) ... ..... ;)
 
you da man!

Preston, Thanks for answering all my seemingly dumb questions. As soon as it cools down a tad I'll go slide under the truck and do it! Then its time for a cool one!



Mike
 
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