Here I am

85 Crewcab Conversion

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What's the best power steering set-up?

conversion website

Hey JIMBOB euc is end use cert just tell them that you will be useing truck for Parts and it wont be sold to oversea's thats all they want .
 
Jim bob

while you have it alll apart make sure you weld up the cab corners by the a pillar, They tend to crack and leak air and water. Also check your rear doors, most have sheet metal cracks at the top by the rear window track. Also use some extra sound deading/insulation material from the firewall to behind the rear seat.

Kyle
 
Roof is glued on

Got around to working on the truck a couple of weeks ago. I would have posted pics then but I couldn't find the card reader for my camera. (teenage son had it in his room)

I unscrewed the screws out of the drip rail, and ground the ones in the roof flush. Roof is not as straight as I would like it, there's a dip on the drivers side where the roof sagged a little. I think I'm going to lay down a couple more layers in the drip rail to completely cover the top layer of metal. I think this would be more durable than seam sealer and it would fill in the holes where the screws were. I though about grinding those screws off also, but unscrewing them seemed a hole lot easier.

Next I'll see about fixing the cowl cracks, almost had the cowl repair patches on DTR, I was second place. I was thinking of drilling and welding the cracks, then weld a thin piece of angle iron possibly 1x1x1/16 down the length of the cowl and some homemade patches.

James
 
filled in drip rail

I filled in the drip rail with the dura-mix large panel adhesive.

I put a whole tube into the drip rail in 3 passes the smoothed it down with a finger, put a bead on under side and smoothed it up into the seam under the drip rail meets the roof behind the windshield gasket, then I put some on my finger and worked it into the back edge of the drip rail. The drip rail is now encased in the stuff, the drip rail shoud be pretty rigid, there's a 1/4 inch of epoxy minimum over it. Once it's cured I will sand it, I might cover it with self-leveling seam sealer just cause I have it. I have a few holes that were drilled in the roof to fix, I think I'll make a piece of steel to fit in the holes and hold it with a magnet to tack them in then weld the rest of the way around them.

Then I'll fix the cowl cracks. The epoxy is smoother than it looks in the pictures, the angle and the light makes it look really bad.
 
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