-90 Burb is going to get the C

[ttammeslehto]

Timo,
I've watched you build for some time, you do great work. While you have it down, check the alignment on the cam bearings. On the older 855 cummins, if the cam bearing was turned off center just a bit. The oil hole feeding the main and rod bearing was blocked enough to starve the rod. I've not looked at a 6bt block. They may have cured this problem.

Bluetick.

Thanks dude, on B series they don't have any other cam bearing (bushings) than the first one, just behind the cam gear. Anyway, got it done late last night, around 4am. fired it up and let it run for 15min. call it a day and hit the bed.

Suburban is back "on line"
Timo

 

[ttammeslehto]

Burb runs fine except a light fluttering, last night pumped timing up to 15. 7 and it helped a bit put still flutters a bit. This morning picked a compression meter from a local Diesel shop, nice people, they borrowed it to me for overnight! Gotto measure the pressures tonight to see if #6 has a damaged valves which may be the cause for the fluttering. If so, all it takes is just the head removal, to change the valves. No big deal, just few hours of happy wrenching! Funny thing, my wife seems to be stressed out more of this fluttering than I'm, maybe she's falling in love with my burban :-laf hell no it's all mine.

Timo

 

[ttammeslehto]

Measured the pressures and they were fine, while pulling the injectors I noticed #6 tip was clean and shiny with only one small slice of soot.
I took it apart, cleaned well with WD40 and pneumatic air. Engine ran fine after putting it all together, so the reason for the fluttering was the injector but again this morning it was fluttering a bit, not so much as it used to but I could feel it. While returning the press. gauge back to the shop I arranged time for tomorrow morning, I will remove the injectors in their shop and they will run them in a tester to see whats wrong with them. I'm more than happy to do all the wrenching, it's perfect start for a day.
Pics shows results of the measurement.

Timo

 

[gonzo2]

When is the J going to get the C ?:-laf

 

[HRDROKN]

When is the J going to get the C ?:-laf

Thats what I was thinking also... a nice 4BT swap!

 

[ttammeslehto]

Dunno yet, maybe I let Matt finish his first…

Although CJ with common rail 4B would be nice and quiet or a tube thing with center located 4BT.



I cruise down to the shop this morning and pulled out injectors. They were all fine, within 1 bar and the spray was perfect.

Started to doubt air is getting in the system, since on the mornings it needs longer cranking than during the day.



Timo

 

[DMemos]

Had a problem with air in the lines and it was the length of time between runs. Overnight it would sit and I'd have a hard time starting in the morning so I was thinking it was the cold engine. When I figured out it was time I got up and started the truck at like midnight and ran it for about 1 min. At 6 am it started right up. 1 min was long enough to purge the air out.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Dunno yet, maybe I let Matt finish his first…

You might be waiting a while...



Matt

 

[ttammeslehto]

Not much to update other than burban runs smooth, now with around 5000miles on the odo. Last weekend over here was a local hot rod show and my burban was there too. First link takes you to the rods of the show and the other one shows my burban with ugly steel rims... .



http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177550



http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/SportTruck/HotRodShow/?start=all



Timo

 

[Grey Wolf]

Lots of nice stuff including yours Timo

 

[ttammeslehto]

Hello for a long time. Burban runs sweet and has around 8000 miles on the odo. Anyway, been looking around and collected some parts for future projects. I may have a acces for -93 year model block and wonder if there's any differences between year models what comes for good, better and best blocks to build an engine (I know the #53 block thing). Also is there any issues when bolting later model head to that block.

Cheers
Timo

 

[Steve Graham]

Timo,

Welcome back!

My guess is that all B series up to 1998. 5 should interchange all parts, maybe to 2001 but I'm not sure.

So what is the new project, any ideas or collecting parts just in case?



Steve

 

[Shadrach]

The newer blocks ( up to 2002 ) will work for an older engine but be advised that they are ORB ( O-Ring Boss ) instead of pipe thread. Sarting in late 1997 theyy added a second turbo drain hole ( great for twins ) and a 3/4 nptf hole just to the left of the oil filter housing ( oil cooler ) for a block heater. Shadrach

 

[ttammeslehto]

Thanks for the info. The plan is to bolt 24valve head to a 12valver block with the P-pump and some other things. Right now I'm collecting parts and will see later on what kind of pile of parts I end up with :-laf. Before I'm able to do any work with them, it will be late autumn, since work is keeping me really busy.



Timo

 

[Shadrach]

Be careful. Like I said the blocks are interchangeable, but you will have to use 24v head , pistons, head gasket, and injectors. Use the 24v rods because they are heavier. To use the P7100 pump you will need the 12v front gear housing and cover and custom injector lines. Shadrach

 

[ttammeslehto]

That's why I wanted another block to make everything fit before lifting my current engine off the burban. Only thing what I didn't know was the 24v rods are heavier than 12v. Like said it will be a slow project, but that's nothing new for me :-laf



Timo

 

[ttammeslehto]

Just bolted on a relief valve and adjusted it for 40psi. On the left side of the valve is adjustable bleed, which should keep waste gate from pulsing open and close. Haven't yet done test drive but will later tonight.



Timo

 

[ttammeslehto]

Works great, all the way to 40psi and stays there too. Stock waste gate on a hx40 starts to open around 12psi, now with the valve boost builds up alot faster after 12psi up to 40. Part# of the valve is X11-C2-00 made by Wilkerson and adjustable bleed is just a regular stuff from a hydraulic store.

Timo

 

[ttammeslehto]

Drilling the crank

Some parts had been popped up to my garage from here and there. So I thought why not to try something different with them, sort of study how to lighten up engines rotating mass. I first did a simple scraper tool to mark a bearing surface, then by using a welding rod, to see where oil passage is located and marked it up, the socket is there to estimate the position of a hole to be drilled. Modified an old rod to use it as a upper support for the crank when it stands under the pole drill. Like you seen in the pics, it's child's play to hack a rod. :-laf

Timo

 

[ttammeslehto]

and if they did a good job, you should have something like this