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91.5 W250 resto

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Need Getrag Help - 3rd gear. 3rd time!

Fuel losing pressure / bleed off

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Hi all,

First Cummins (not my first Mopar though) - work started on it last year.

Started with blasting, powder coating the frame after checking the alignment -

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Every body panel was either replaced, or patched & straightened -

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Since the motor had just 88k miles on it, just some minor valve adjustment, and a few fresh gaskets/seals, along with checking bearing clearances -

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New floor panels, roof skin & reworked rain gutters, then everything primered/sanded multiple times, and sprayed with Eastwood's SubLime urethane enamel + top coat clear -

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Interior was restored, bombed and all connections cleaned & Ox-Garded -

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New carpets, door membranes, panels, interior trim & seat reupholstered -

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part 2

All braking components the transfer case & axles were rebuilt with NOS parts (OK, the front pads are PFC carbon metallic)

Spicer Life U-joints all around after balancing the driveshafts. NOS springs & mounting hardware went on next.

The transmission was rebuilt with Red Eagle/Kolene & a slightly tighter converter. A Transgo shift kit was installed, and the system refilled with Amsoil's Synthetic ATF.

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Motor was run on some decade old Amsoil 15W40 and a Fleetguard filter for a while, then drained & refilled with Amsoil HDD 5W-30 & an EaO filter.

Diffs & NP205 got fills of Severe Gear 75W90, and the cooling system got a Cummins double jiggle pin stat + Mopar HOAT in an NOS radiator, with a factory clutch & fan.

Dayco tensioner assembly + Dayco Gold Belt went on next - I see I will spend more time with a 1/2" drive on this motor.

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Bilsteins all around -

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Homebrew bedliner - 6 spray cans of rubberized gravel guard -

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5 year old Interstate gave up this winter, so a 1150cca Odyssey went in with ring terminals all around -

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Some bling went on when I was salvaging the parts bins for my 81 W150 -

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Gotta break up the 6 acres of SubLime -

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Not many mods so far - just a wastegated 14cm housing with a Banks BHA; used brake line routed along the firewall to plumb into the drivers side intake -

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It's been my daily driver since Christmas, liking it so far.

Going to install gauges as I'm curious what it runs at before I start fueling it.
 
Thanks man.

Dumped in a pair of Trucklite LED headlamps - here's a frontal next to the F350 I picked up last week.
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Got the sound system installed.

Ended up going with an Infinity IV AM/FM/cassette/CD, and put Infinity 6x9s in the doors, and used 6x9 adaptor brackets to mount 6.5" Infinity's behind the seat. I had to tack weld a couple extra studs on the rear seat grilles to mount the 6x9 adaptors, as the factory studs don't work in this setup.

Looks factory, the sound is much nicer now. Didn't go with bass boxes/subwoofers as I listen to country & classic rock.

SRV never sounded so good in this truck before.

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Very nice, love the paint and racing stripes
looks great
makes me want to do that with mine
90 w250
banks kit, intercooler, power screw turned up, 3200 spring
 
Got around to the KDP as I had a couple free hours before lunch.
Made a retainer out of an old titanium wire zipper pull.
The pin was sitting 3/16" inside the bore - all good.
Few case bolts were loose though.
Couldn't get to one of them so I heat bent an old box wrench 90 degrees and welded a 3/8" drive socket to it. Worked where a crowsfoot wouldn't.
All bolts torque-tited.
New front seal, gasket and dust shield.
Thought I'd changed the tensioner and belt over Christmas but must have been on another truck.
Dayco tensioner and gold belt on there before everything reassembled.
Peace of mind :)

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Installed the steering box frame brace early this morning - bottom most bolt wouldn't budge till coffee made me realize I had forgotten it was a splined bolt like a wheel stud.

Gorilla torqued the bolts, sorry no pics, laying on my back under a greasy b$tch is what I do without a camera.

Then I installed some DRW tailgate running lamps, hoping to better my lowly SRW truck.

Used thrashingcows spacing photograph...

Fished a single 16ga wire, and spliced the bulb leads into 5 individual loops, soldered, taped, etc. etc.

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Ran the now loomed wire with an inline weatherproof quick disconnect under & into the tail lamp housing, and done.

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Then, since I was still not in the same category as a blue blooded LE truck, I decided to add a cargo lamp to my poor cousin wannabe SE.

A few minutes with a cutting wheel...

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Even SE trucks came with the cargo lamp switch & wires in the harness; imagine that!

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j.fonder doesn't even realize I stole his freshly painted steering brace & an LE cargo lamp from his workbench

Finally -

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So i threw the Webasto heater in a few days back. Took me about 4 hours including screwing around & a couple beers.

I will clean up the install as far as hiding wire looms go but its a lot better than it looks ;-)

First - I picked the Webasto TL-17 & returned the Espar D5W as my local CAT dealer insisted it was more sturdy & had a more intuitive 7-day timer control that can be operated with thick gloves.

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Here is the control - have to say its simple, foolproof & also offers a "maintenance mode" for the summer & a full diagnostics port + a Low Voltage Disconnect - I set this at 11.5v.

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I cut & fabbed a bracket to hold the Webasto securely on the right wheel well - should last a lot longer without getting hit with the winter salt. Here it is with the coolant hoses & fuel lines mocked up -

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Main weatherproof connector (fuses & diag port inside) -

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Here you can see the intake tube (I put a very small motorcycle K&N breather I had laying around on the end) & the inline fuel pump is to the right of the connector -

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Coolant hoses - the top one is the heated output from the Webasto unit -

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I tied the heated output hose into the heater core inlet, as the old CAT feller told me the heat loss before going into the engine block is minimal -

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It then returns & enters the bottom of the block, and exits from the top right back to the Webasto unit's inlet port.

I tee'd into the inlet just before the piston lift pump - I also plumbed an small inline filter into the fuel feed port before the Webasto's suction pump.

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The exhaust port from the coolant heater unit - sounds like a whistling tea kettle from 40 yards away when the unit is running -

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The control unit mounted next to the headlamp switch - its painfully simple & fast to set & manually override -

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At around -2, the timer set to 30 minutes - coolant temp got up to about 145F, and the oil & transmission fluid were lukewarm, and there was no frost or condensation on the glass - I left the vent position at Defrost so ambient heat would trickle out - not too shabby at all.
 
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Gotta say- you did/ are doing a lot of work and it ain't no lap dog. Looks like it's very used! what did you use to coat the frame and underbody? Apologies if I missed it.
 
Four hours!

That's pretty fast. I'm just curious, did you have to drop the fuel tank or raise the bed for the fuel pick up? Also did you only have to run a fuel supply hose or a return hose as well?
 
I've been known to take 4 hours for an oil change, but I hustled this one in as I had time constraints, and I'm a bit more focused when working alone.
You likely missed it in my rather long post, but I tee'd into the fuel inlet just before the lift pump.
I kept the fuel line short and the entire install is inside the engine bay.
Fuel supply only; this uses so little fuel that it can be plumbed into just the return line, but I chose to keep the fuel lines on the same engine side as the actual unit.
 
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