91 Ram Hood Latch Problem

[BSeyler]

I'm posting this for my son. The cable for his hood latch has been broken for quite a while. It's routed out the front of the grille and zip tied to the grille guard. He's been looking for a replacement, but just hasn't gotten it done, yet. I think the cable popped out of the keeper on the latch and now we can't get the hood to release. With the grille guard, it's hard to get a look and things. Has anyone had this happen and what did you do? I'm thinking I'll need to remove the grille guard and maybe an insert out of the grille, but don't know if that will allow me to get my hand inside far enough to release it. Any help will be appreciated.



Bud

 

[NIsaacs]

I just looked at my '91. 5 and the latch is on top of the core support. With the hood shut, it appears to be next to impossible to figure out a way to release it:{ Maybe someone has a trick that I can't see.



Nick

 

[BSeyler]

Nick,

Thanks for looking - his is a 91. 5, so may be a twin to yours. The latch really is secure, that's for sure. I'm thinking about taking the cow catcher off and removing one of the inserts in the grille, then using a hole saw through the support. Then, maybe I can get a mirror up there and see a way to trip the latch. I hate to do too much cutting, but will just have to weld what I cut out back in.

Bud

 

[NIsaacs]

Bud, the more I look at the release, the harder it becomes to overcome the broken cable. The top grill inserts are installed/removed with the grill off, you can only remove the bottom inserts. The grill can't be removed with the hood shut. The latch mount is bolted to three layers of sheet metal. The top has a re-enforcement plate, then the core support and under that, is another support bracket. Here are two pics, never mind the yellow plastic putty knife, it is to plug the hood access hole from rats:-laf

PS: The least amount of breakin damage, may be to cut the inserts off, taking care to not damage the mounting surface and cut/grind the clip nuts off the latch bolts.

Nick

 

[BSeyler]

Nick,

The pictures help a lot. I appreciate you taking the time to post them. I talked to my son to see what he wanted to do. The grille is starting to come apart in a couple of places and he's found a replacement, so I guess if it does gets torn up, no big loss. I have the pickup in the shop today and will see what I can do resulting with the least amount of damage. Looking at the latch, it appears there are only two bolts holding it. I might be able to weld something on the bottom of them, if they stick through far enough, and get them to unscrew a bit. Then, maybe the hood will come up enough to get a sawzall on them. I have some other work to do today, so will ponder this. The putty knife looks great! Keeps the rats out and you never know when you just might need to use it one the road!:-laf I'll post back with the results.

Bud

 

[HHhuntitall]

Well, if you're not worried about the grill, knock a hole right in front of the latch, use a sawzall blade (or something stiff like it), and release the sear latch if the hood isn't adjusted down too far..... Otherwise, I hope you're a good fisherman, as that's the next option, up through the grill... . I've done it several times on customers trucks and my own, using some stiff hotfence wire. Not fun, but the least damaging. Good luck!!

 

[BSeyler]

Success! I was able to get the grille off without too much damage. Then, I used my 4" angle grinder and cut the bolts from the bottom - it's a tight fit! I had hoped to weld something on them to turn them out, but was afraid of damaging the condensor or aftercooler and there wasn't room, anyway. I had to remove the guard and handle, but got it in enough to cut the bolts, plus about halfway through the safety latch. Anyway, it's open! Thanks for the pictures! TDR is the best source for advice.

Bud

 

[NIsaacs]

Good job, Bud! Now I am scared of my dumb cable



Nick

 

[BSeyler]

Well, I guess the problem was kind of from our own doing. First, the handle broke off the cable inside the cab. Under the hood, the cable had worn through the outside covering and was rubbing on a battery cable, so we just cut it off, routed it through the grille, and tied a big washer on it. Kind of a saloon job, I know, but the plan was to get a replacement and fix it right. We've both been busy and hadn't done anything about it. Apparently, it got a little slack and the little brass colored keeper came out of the latch. When I put it back, I peened the latch a little to hold everything in place, plus added a zip tie. I think we'll be okay until a new cable assembly is found. But, there sure is a lot riding on one little screw securing the end of the cable! Thanks again for the pictures. The view of the latch gave me the idea to cut the bolt from the bottom. I replaced them with carriage bolts, so they still can be loosened for adjustment. Now, to get all the stuff he bought installed - I found the pickup for him when he was deployed and I think he spent a small fortune at Geno's. I'd like to get it all off my work bench.

Thanks to HHuntitall, also, for the pictures and ideas!

Bud

 

[HHhuntitall]

You bet. Glad someone could help. I've had many that broke the cable, mostly from lack of lube on the latch assembly... . my own fault or previous three owners or so... . Really a pain when it quits you, and the only way you have to start it is to lift the hood and attach a wire to the battery for the fuel solenoid..... :-laf I try to keep a light, dust resistant lube on mine, so it's not so hard to pull. Fixing the wiring so the solenoid works really helps, too, so you don't have to lift the hood every time you want to kill or start it... .



Is that truck intercooled? I was looking at one of mine, and I don't think I could get a grinder in there at those bottom bolts on mine... .....

 

[BSeyler]

Y

Is that truck intercooled? I was looking at one of mine, and I don't think I could get a grinder in there at those bottom bolts on mine... .....

Yes, it is - 91. 5. It was a really tight fit. I had to take the guard and handle off, and then it was still at an angle. I used a thin cutting wheel to cut the nuts and it worked pretty well on the passenger side. On the driver side, I had to cut the safety latch almost all the way before the nut gave way. It might have been better if I'd had a worn wheel with less diameter, but might not have had enough reach, as the grinder was pretty tight against the condensor. A little welding and paint and it's fine. My son will probably come pick it up tomorrow.

Bud

 

[BSeyler]

I went out and looked this morning and it has a 6-91 manufacture date. The aftercooler is about 2 inches shorter than the condensor and that allowed the grinder to just reach over the top, with a new wheel. I wonder if they made a change from the earlier 91. 5 models? Also, I dodged a bullet on the grille. The plastic surrounding the screws that secures the top of the grille to the core support had broken. The grille sits on a lip and that was holding it in, but there was movement. I had to break on of the ears and that was it - I was able to work the top of the grille out. I put the screws back in new plastic, so taking the grille out with the hood shut would be tough now.

Bud

 

[DVolk]

Thats the one thing i hate about the cable hood release they never put a oh crap provision the 78 Dodge magnum i had in highschool did but not these they should put a provision for a long screw driver to trip it some how

 

[NIsaacs]

Thats the one thing i hate about the cable hood release they never put a oh crap provision the 78 Dodge magnum i had in highschool did but not these they should put a provision for a long screw driver to trip it some how

That would be a big help, however it would defeat the purpose of the cable latch that locks the hood when the cab is locked.



Nick

 

[rMetzger]

Well, now that it's open/close again, hood pins?

 

[HHhuntitall]

Zuess (Dzus) fasteners!!! They held the hood on for my old Daytona Shelby I stretched and tubbed... ... . and stripped... . and built a chassis for..... No. 1 cylinder was 4" behind the front spindle. She'd leave like a cheatin' wife!!

 

[BSeyler]

Is that truck intercooled? I was looking at one of mine, and I don't think I could get a grinder in there at those bottom bolts on mine... .....

This is an auto transmission pickup. The transmission cooler sits on top of the aftercooler, so maybe it's something unique to auto transmission applications. We tabbed the dowel pin, plus a bunch of other stuff this weekend. I should have taken a picture, while the radiator was out, but didn't think of it until too late.



Bud