92 not running

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Hello,



I'm working on a 92 5spd for a friend and at the moment it is not running. It's been sitting for about a week, he said that it run fine the night before but when he came out the next morning, nada. It will turn over fine, but not hit a lick. It had been a long time since the fuel filter had been changed, so I put a new one on and primed it real good. It cranked up and run fine, I told him to cut it off and try again to see if it would fire, sure enough it fired. the second try it wouldn't hit again, so I primed it, checked connections, fuel pump shutoff, wires, everything i could think of, we tried cranking it a few times, each time with fuel all the way to the injectors, but with no luck.



We finally got it to fire, but it would run only at and idle with the pedal mashed to the floor and lots of white smoke. After that it was hopeless, it will not hit a lick.



And it is leaking fuel around the pump control lever, could it be sucking air there?



I hope y'all 1st gen experts can help me out a little bit.



Thanks, Steven

 

[1stgen4evr]

leak out

Any place that leaks out CAN allow air to be ingested. But that should be a pressure point and not show up as a problem. I think you may have something else. Have you checked to be sure the on/off solonoid is working properly? How about the lift pump? What feed pressure do you have? The white smoke and no rpms indicates air from somewhere or starving for fuel.



Hard to diagnose over the internet. Keep us posted.



James

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Thanks,



He wants to go ahead and put a lift pump on it since the truck has 250,000 miles. And I'm not totally sure on the soleniod(sp)? I'll have to check on that. Any tips on checking it?



Steven

 

[MMiller]

With a couple injector lines loosened crank the engine over. Does fuel spray out from the nuts? Heck if you get good fuel out of two lines, the engine should hit and fire when they are tightened up. When ever I have a stubborn diesel with air in the lines, I loosen up the ones that are easy to get to. Then have somebody crank the engine over, as fuel squirts out good I start tightening the lines, while the engine is cranking, and then if it starts I keep tightening lines. Then let it run for several minutes. I have watched many guys shut off a diesel too soon, and then have to re prime the system again, cause of a few bubbles left over.



If there is no fuel squirting out the injector lines, then it could be the shut off solenoid telling the pump not to run. Or is could be no fuel getting to the injection pump. My truck would run with a dying lift pump. Just low on power. I have never had one completely fail though.



Michael

 

[1stgen4evr]

diagnosis

Diagnosis is always a combination of what you know and what you think from your experience which is also known as a swag (scientific wild *** guess). As you eliminate each of the possibles, you are left with the probables.



I check the solonoid by making sure the spade connector is secure and then with my finger on the solonoid, have someone turn the truck on. A discernable click is what I expect. I have had about four instances of solonoid trouble. Not all mine I would add. Two times the connection was faulty, and two times the windings failed, one of those was a smokeing obvious problem. A few years back, and around 250k on one of the trucks, the lift pump was getting to the point that it would allow leak back and the truck was very hard to get running each morning. A new lift pump solved the problem. I am convinced that dirty fuel is the cause of lift pump failure. The pump would be well served by having a filter BEFORE the fuel reaches the pump. It isn't such a problem (or I am lazy) that I have done anything about.



If you are stopped on the road, you can take the plunger out of the solonoid and run the truck without a key cutoff. You will have to raise the hood to kill the truck with the manual cutoff lever.



James

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Thanks,



I am pretty certain that it is the solenoid, I tested it and it would not click with the key switch, and it did have power to the terminal connectors. I then ran a jumper wire from the solenoid to the pos battery post, nothing. I even referenced it with my truck, and performed the same, and it audibly clicks. I could feel mine very good when it clicked. So we are going to replace it as soon as he can get one. What kind of tools have y'all had luck with in getting it out?!



Steven

 

[1stgen4evr]

Wrench

I forget the size (about 7/8s or 15/16) but I heated and bent a box end wrench to get on the body of the solonoid/ You will find that the bracket on the back of the pump is in the way and will either have to be removed or broken off. I have done both. On the last incident, I took a twelve inch crecent wrench and bent the bracket back and forth till it broke off. Took about twenty five back and forth cycles. It broke right at the top of the upper bolt hole. Yeah Yeah Yeah. Sloppy procedure but the bracket serves no purpose on our trucks and you really need different bolts if you take it off completely.



Anyway, you can remove the plunger and the truck can be used till he gets the solonoid. The numbers on the Bosch box read:



1 St/Pc

0 330 001 015 ooo



3 165143 089194



282 087610



Save the plunger and spring. They sometimes are the problem and if you ever have a situation where the plunger tip is the problem, you will have saved the price of a new set.



Good luck

James

 

[tugboatphil]

Steven,



Check out this post if you need a new solenoid. It's a Bosch part, and I got one online with shipping for $38. Saved me a trip to Roanoke and a few bucks more.





https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125239

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Thanks,



It was the solenoid, cranks fine now. Thanks for all the help.



Steven