93 Wiring Problem

[Dakotahaulers]

I Am Having Trouble With My 93' Club Cab 5-speed Pcm Board. The Part # Is 5602 9101. Called Dodge And They Do Not Make It Any More. Does Any One Know Where I Can Get One, New Or Used. The Problem Started With The Voltage Regulater Giving Up And It Is Blowing Headlights Left And Right. I Have Already Replaced The Alternater. This Is My First Time Logging On As A New Member. I Have A 93' Club Cab 1-ton With Pod's, Hx-35, Bully Dog Power Pin, Pump Maxed Out, 4 Inch Exhaust To 5 Inch Twin Longhorn Stacks, Nv4500, Con Fe, And Wrapped Up In A Dakota Hauler Custom Flatbed. But I Still Have Quiet A Bit More To Do But I Need To Get The Pcm Fixed. I Will Try To Get Pics And Videos Up By This Next Week. ALSO WILL A 93 PCM WORK OUT OF 93 AUTO PICKUP. AND HOW DO I KNOW MY PCM IS BAD AND NOT THE CRANK SENOR.

 

[dodgenstein]

If it was the crank sensor it wouldn't charge, not over charge. You also wouldn't have A/c . Automatic guys wouldn't have OD.

 

[Dakotahaulers]

Is There A Way To Test The Pcm And Would The Pcm Cause My Tach Problem Too?

 

[1stgen4evr]

Pcm

There are numerous post on this problem as what you are experiencing is very common. I have seen comment regarding rebuilt computers and have seen it stated that the computers are the same but must be programed for your application. Externally, our computer looks exactly like the one on an Intrepid, so that may indeed be correct. Usually, the computer is not the culprit but a wire or wire connector somewhere. If that is not the case, you can disconnect the computer from the alternator and add on the Chrysler regulator or a Ford regulator. The Phurd is better than the Chrysler. 89 and 90 (91?) trucks had no computer and the regulator is on the firewall next to the wiper motor. Should you add one on, I would suggest some alternate location that would be cooler. Perhaps over next to the computer in the battery area so that acid spills and vapors can ensure long life. The wire from the computer should be folded back and taped.



The computer may continue to loose function and forget to enable the AC as well.



I certainly agree that voltage problems can burn out the lights but blown head lights might not be connected with your problem. They don't last as well as they used to.



James

 

[Philip]

I have had a intermitent problem with my crank position sensor.



It can cause on overcharge condition. I have seen it on my truck. What are the tach problems you are having? Does it stay on the bottom of the scale or does it swing madly all over?



Check the air gap on the crank sensor. It should be around . 050". Pull the plug apart at the front of the engine by the #1 valve cover and check for corrision. Also look real close at the connections in this plug. On the female side all it uses is some small tabs in each socket to make the connection. Take a very small screwdriver or O-ring pick and bend these small tabs back out gently.



Let me know what that tach if doing!

 

[cerberusiam]

If you haven't done so start checking all the grounds and make sure all the connections to crank sensor, PCM, etc are clean and tight. A healthy dose of dielectric grease on the connections helps. The headlights are the first to go if there are problems. Are you seeing the lights flicker dim/bright at any time? Are any of the dash or interior lights blowing? Is it back to charging after you replaced the alternator?



The PCM's are available thru several sources, Schucks, Autozone, and an online site that I can't find right now. The auto PCM should work but it may throw codes if it doesn't find something. The same year trucks should have the same functions with the exception of the OD on the auto and if it isn't wired in it should just ignore it.



Have you pulled any codes to see if the PCM will tell you where the problem is?

 

[Dakotahaulers]

Thanks guys for the replies. I have already gone through the ground wires, connectors, added ground wires but it always ends up blowwing the headlights; low and high beam just which one i have on at the time. And my tach problem: it stays dead( 0 ) until I get to about 2600-2800 rpms.

 

[Philip]

Sounds like the crank position sensor is out of adjustment or is about gone.



Check the air gap and the socket by the #1 valve cover.



You might want to run a conunity (<-spelling) check on the return wire from the crank sensor. It is the gray wire with the Black stripe on it. In the FSM it is shown as K24 18gage GY/BK. This goes to pin 24 on the PCM plug. With the plug unhooked and looking in the end of it. It will be in the center row 4th terminal from the left side. Just plug a digital volt meter set on OHMs and see if you are getting a low reading. No reading or a real high OHM reading means that wire has a problem.



While you have the plug off of the PCM. Look real close at the terminals on the left side. I found some on my truck that were out of round and not making good contact a while back. The left side wires are tight going into the terminal block putting a strain on the connectors. I used a small screw driver (agin) and tightened up the terminals. This stoped some of my problems for a while.

 

[RGuzzo]

I spent two days and nights looking for a similar problemon my 93 club cab4x4 diesel and found another truck on the side of the road one day with the same prob. and thougt I was a genious as there prob. was in the intermint stage. Look on the drivers side fender in the factory y splice there are 2 red #12 awg wires spliced to a # 20 or 22 ga. res. wire it didnt look bad at first but when I tugged on it slighty it came apart futher inspection showed green oxidation I just snipped the bad splice out and heat shrunk it and scotch 33 over it. The res. wire should prob. have been replaced totally but it hasnt bothered since. I used the dodge truck manuals wiring diagrams to trace it out through the comp. not an easy job where dodge puts some of these splices. I hope its where I suggested and you dont have another bad splice in some ridiculous place.