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94 gov springs

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I have a 94 auto 3. 54 gear, 230/205 tst cam plate,dunrite convertor,an 4" pipe out the rear. Would the gov kit help me run with a 2001 powerchoke with 4. 11. Help!!
 
I doubt it.

You need some injectors first. Your 160's are small. Bosch 215's would give you another 40 hp & 100 ft lbs torque.

I'm surprised you can't outrun the F*** with your torque plate.
 
Originally posted by cherokee chief:
I have a 94 auto 3. 54 gear, 230/205 tst cam plate,dunrite convertor,an 4" pipe out the rear. Would the gov kit help me run with a 2001 powerchoke with 4. 11. Help!!

It might help in a stop light to stop light contest or 1/4 miling. The ford navistar can rev quite a bit higher allowing a faster et because there isn't as much shifting involved. However, you might want to challenge the furd to a real challenge which would be pulling a load up a grade. The cummins engine will out pull a navistar. I agree that if you want to have a real runner you will need to increase the fueling with better injectors.

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves
 
cherokee,

I can't stand the thought of a fellow '94 getting beaten by a powerstroke. So, I have to dive in here to help.

The gov. spring kit and delivery valves are great add ons, but if all you want to do is beat a chipped stroke then I would go a cheaper route.

Take that TST camplate and slide it all the way forward.

Then find your high idle stop and tear off the tamper proof cover. Screw the high idle stop all the way in.

Then you need to get someone to mash the accelerator all the way to the floor and see if the throttle lever on the pump is against the stop.

Increasing the throttle stop will have a two fold increase for you. You will recieve more fuel and power because of the increased throttle angle.

The governor is set to 2500 rpm on the '94's and power is being cut back at 2200 rpm whether you can feel it or not. The throttle stop trick will allow the truck to pull hard all the way to the shift point.

I assume you have a pyro even though you didn't list it in the original post.

I have NO doubt that you can beat the stroke with these two mods.

Once you get a taste of the power, the injectors, gov spring, AFC spring, delivery valves, HX40 will follow later. #ad


The injectors will lessen the load on the pump, so if you are using excess power a lot of the time, you should consider the injectors a priority. But, if you just want to beat a Powerstroke a few times, then you can get by without them temporarily.

-Chris

'94 2500 4x4 auto w/ DTT TC & VB, custom fuel plate, Diamond B 370's, hi-flow delivery valves, AFC spring kit, Gov. spring kit, Jardine 4" exhaust.
 
Strick-9
Did you really notice a difference when you screwed in your high RPM stop screw?

Did you have to return the stop to it's stock position when you installed the Gov spring kit?

Also, Did your throttle cable have enough travel in it to use the added throttle rod movement?
There is no info in the archives #ad

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 02-14-2001). ]
 
HEMI,

Excellent questions!

Yes, I noticed a HUGE improvement when I screwed in the throttle stop. My case was a little more pronounced than most. Here's why. I started out with a custom fuel plate. I had tons of power, but could rarely use it. My shift points were adjusted too high. My truck would pull incredibly hard to 2300-2400 rpms then just coast for a few seconds (literally) up to 2500 when the transmission would finally shift. I didn't know that I could adjust my shift points at this time. I was a newbie bomber. #ad


When I adjusted my high idle, the truck would pull hard to 2800 rpms. The shifts would then occur during full power and there was NO break in the acceleration. It made more of a difference with respect to acceleration than the camplate did.

You pointed out one of the drawbacks. The throttle will have more range of motion than the transmission throttle valve cable. If you look closely at the throttle valve linkage on the injector pump behind the TPS. You will see that it is spring loaded. You can over-rotate the throttle after the throttle valve cable has hit its stop. This does put a great deal of stress on the throttle valve cable though.

In addition to screwing my high RPM stop all the way in, I cut half of the head off. If a little is good, more is better. #ad


With this extreme setting, during some of my horseplaying, I pulled the throttle valve linkage off my transmission. I lost the added pressure of the throttle valve circuit and it cost me a transmission rebuild. I drove it for quite a while like this before I noticed it, or no damage would have been done.

I did indeed unscrew the high RPM stop when I installed the governor spring kit. I didn't want to risk another throttle valve mishap, and I didn't need the extended throttle position anymore.

-Chris
 
Where's the best place buy 215 injectors?Also should I replace the deliver valves?This F**d's been turn up that's why he's faster.
 
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