Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) '94 hard starting

[TFPace]

Hello Guys!



This truck has 188,000 miles on it and has always been quick to start.



Well until now... I have read previous threads about lift pumps, heaters grids, broken hoses.



To get it to start in the morning I have to pump the peddle several times before it fires. Once it it warm she fires quickly as before.



I have no fuel leaks.



I am not the best trouble shooter... . any help is appreciated!



The fuel filter was changed 25k miles ago.



Thanks,



Tom

 

[Joe G.]

First of all this thing is a diesel so all you are doing when you pump it is exercise your foot.



The first thing to try is to see if it will start up right away if you crack the throttle when you crank it. Don't pump it, just press it a little. If that helps then your idle is too low.

 

[illflem]

Writing this while it's fresh in my mind and my arms are still bleeding...



It more than likely is your return line, it can suck air without leaking fuel. You will need about two feet of 5/16'' diesel rated hose, a couple of clamps and a lot of patience, it's a tight fit. In the picture below you can see the line where it passes under the water temp sensor (upper right) the end with the clamp is to the left of the filter, which needs to be removed to gain access. You will also need to remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder with fluid reservoir and move it towards the drivers side, pull the large vacuum hose off the brake booster and it moves easier than it looks.

To get to the other end of the hose you need to move the two relays with their bracket out of the way, one 3/8'' screw under the hood seal does it. Remove the hose hold down clamps towards the rear of the filter. I also completely remove the engine lift hook. Now you can follow the hose down by feel and remove the clamp. The rest with the new hose is self evident. Sure wish it was as easy to see as this picture.



#ad

 

[shendren]

bill,

it looks like you did the return line from above completely? some guys mention going at this from the bottom. your method looks easier than the bottom.



did you also replace the supply line? i heard this one needs to be changed also.

thanks. scott.

 

[illflem]

To do anything from the bottom you need to remove the starter and that will only get you to the rear part of the hose unless you have really long arms that drag on the ground when you walk.

Most times the supply line is in good shape because it's not up against the block. It's also easier to replace than the return if need be at a later date. Your choice if you want to do them both at once, most likely it will hold up for a long time. If someone is doing the work for you do both.

 

[Hogan]

To add to this, check the return line near the tank. It goes from metal to plastic hose with a quick-disconnect on the end, the problem comes from the plastic rubbing on the frame rail. I just recently fixed this problem on my truck, the hose had rubbed through and was making the frame wet with fuel but not at a rate fast enough to really see it dripping.

 

[AlFischer]

I have read all the posts about hard starting. Went to help son on his 96 with this problem. He had ordered the overflow valve from Piers and ontained 2 ft of 3/8" and 5/16" from NAPA ($5. 99/ft

WOW). Managed to change the 3/8" return line and the valve. Looked for where to put the 5/16" line. I assumed to line going to the input of the lift pump was the line to be replaced. However this line was marked as 3/8".



Due to loss of blood and muscle pain the project was deferred until later!! Nasty job unless you have arms like a gorilla and an eyeball on your thumb!!



Is the line going to the input of the lift pump the one that should be 5/16"? If not where does the 5/16" line go?

 

[illflem]

The 5/16 line is the return and begins a couple inches towards the front of the engine from the fuel filter against the block. The filter must be removed to get at it and if you have vacuum assist brakes the two master cylinder nuts should be removed so the cylinder can be moved to the side. The other end is right next to the lower end of the 3/8 intake line you already replaced. You can see part of the return hose in the drawing above.

 

[AlFischer]

Hmmm, Interesting. We removed the return line and measured it so as to cut the new hose to length and it was marked as 3/8". Should i assume that someone replaced it before and put the wrong size on or are some engines a different size? It seemed to go on OK. Hate to think of any more blood loss redoing it!

 

[illflem]

I'll bet it's already been replaced. 5/16 is a tight fit but is the correct size. Heck if 3/8 worked before it can work again, why bleed any more if it doesn't leak?

 

[AlFischer]

Good point. It doesn't leak and I THINK the hard start is fixed. Need to ask son how it is doing. Of course I can give HIM the option of bleeding!