Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 95 12 valve

[GButia]

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a 95 12v 4x4 dually 5spd. Went to look at the truck today and have a few concerns. There seems to be a moderate amount of oil on the underside of the truck... especially around the passenger side underneath the turbo. It doesn't appear to be from the turbo though? On the drivers side there is some oil around the differential coming from above. The truck starts and idles fine... seems to have full power under acceleration. Oil level on the dipstick is right in the normal range and has not been added too or changed since the truck has been on the lot. The clutch doesn't slip but releases high. The truck has 151,000 miles on it. It will need tires to pass inspection. Out the door price of $7700. 00. What do the 12v experts think? Any advice greatly appreciated!!

 

[JacobsD]

That sounds like a pretty good deal on that truck, especially if its clean (meaning not body-rusted. ) My 95's clutch releases high also, and its got a brand new upgraded clutch in it. Not sure whats up with it, but I got used to it pretty quick. Mine also has oil dripping from the engine. I think it may be a combonation of the timing cover and the valve covers, but its not dripping enough to drop the oil level, just enough to cover my nice new dual steering stabilizers though #@$%!

 

[Missouri Mule]

Addressing the oil on passenger side of engine could be coming from the connection of the metal and rubber turbo oil return line, it runs parrel with the oil filter. Remedy is to tighten screw clamp.

I take it you are refering to front differential. With out looking at my truck I would say it is the vacuum pump seal leaking, the timing case gasket, and/or the front seal.

 

[GButia]

I guess I should of added that this will be a project truck. I will be making a street class puller out of it. I have never bought a used truck, so for a truck thats 12 plus years old I should expect some problems. I have been looking for a long time and the super clean 12v around here are going for 5k more with the same mileage. I will be registering and carrying insurance on this truck so it will have to be inspected... its gonna need tires... any recomendations?

 

[Bloomy]

My 95 always had some oil leaks that weren't that bad. Most of the oil on the drivers side came from the blow-by hose that hangs down in that area. Typically would keep the transmission and transfer case nice and cruddy. All the other areas that were mentioned are good places to start. If it is on the front diff then as MM said check the vacuum pump. They are known leakers as is the timing cover and crank seal. If the truck runs good, has good power (is it still stock) I wouldn't be afraid to grab it. I still regret selling my 95 which I used as a puller but there aren't that many pulls in central florida. Don't worry about the high engagement for the clutch. Mine was like that even after the DD was installed. For tires you have a number of choices that depend on where you are pulling, how much power and what the rest of your drive-train and suspension are like. All terrains are still the better choice for the majority of the tracks and trucks unless you can carry more than one set with you. Have fun. I think I will end up finding another 12V down the road. Did I mention I still wish I had the 95?



Thomas

 

[Woodenhead]

My front main was leaking and covered the underside of the motor, left side, right side, front diff, steering stabilizer, frame..... (you get the idea). Yet I never had to add any oil between changes.



Make sure it's not the KDP that's come loose and smacked a hole in the timing case. Have a look at the the side of the timing case and make sure it's not cracked and not the source of the oil.



Mike

 

[GButia]

where is the timing case located... ... I know... stupid newbie 12v question.

 

[GButia]

As far as a front main seal... what is the cost of replacement, difficulty level?



Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Joe G.]

The timing case is on the front of the engine. The oil fill tube goes in the timing case cover. The injection pump is bolted to the timing case. It also has the engine data plate on it.



The front seal comes in a kit that has a plastic tool to help the install. It's still a PITA to do.

 

[Woodenhead]

Yes it's a but of a pain to do but it's actually pretty simple if you follow the directions. Not hard to do in the garage with simple tools if you're at least a little bit of a wrencher. If you're going to build a pulling truck you can certainly handle this. If it hasn't been done already you'll want to tap the KDP (killer dowel pin) anyway which is all part of doing the main seal.

 

[Joe G.]

The PITA part is geting the seal started in the gear case cover. I made a little tool for my shop press so that when I do a tab job for someone the seal is easy to put in the cover.

 

[GButia]

Thanks for the help guys... really appreciate it! I went ahead and bought it. It will be a fun project and help get my mind off of work. The nice part of the whole deal is it will not be my sole source of transport... I can work at it at my own pace. I have waited through 8 long years of college/vet school to be able to do this and am really excited. I work in a small town and its funny how word gets out. It seems every farm call I go on somebody says... hey doc heard you got your pullin truck... just let me know if I can help. Have I mentioned this is gonna be fun!

 

[Coalsmoke]

I have a 95, have had it for a while now and have a hair under 250,000 on the clock. Its a great truck, I hope to never get rid of it, even if it does drive me crazy sometimes. My original clutch engaged in the bottom third of pedal travel, I just recently installed a Southbend ConO clutch and it now engages in the top third of pedal travel. Took me about 2 days to get used to it, but now I like it a lot as it makes for precise and quicker shifts, if there is such a thing as a quick shift on this girl

 

[Dr.Bob]

I would want to know if 5th gear has been fixed, if the killer dowel pin has been fixed and look to see if a third gen track bar has been put on if not I would subtract the cost from the price. Those three things need to be fixed.

 

[IanF]

The clutch on my '95 releases really high... as does the clutch in a '97 I know of... apparently normal...



If you have the time (sounds like you're in no rush), working on the front seal/timing cover/KDP is a TON easier with the radiator removed.

 

[arthr31]

The clutch on my '95 releases really high... as does the clutch in a '97 I know of... apparently normal...



If you have the time (sounds like you're in no rush), working on the front seal/timing cover/KDP is a TON easier with the radiator removed.

If they aren't broken, it's up to the buyer to fix, really. I did all three on my truck and could tell or see no reason why they would have failed anytime soon. If demand to have to fix for the sale, the buyer might lose the sale, IMO.