Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Front ball joints and u-joints are replaced on both sides of my 95 4wd. It has the DANA 60, 4500 or 4800 lb axles. Since this was my first try, here are some observations from a newbie that may make it easier for the next guy. Maybe the more experienced among you will have some additional hints. Thanks for the advice you guys gave me.
First, the archives are a great placed to start. The information there is helpful, so I’ll try not to repeat it. The factory service manual is a must, but it doesn’t tell you everything if this is your first time.
My dealer offered to do bushings alone on both sides for $1400. The u-joints would have been additional. I completed the job for about $700. 00 including some new tools. It took me a weekend and a couple of weekday evenings. It will be lots faster next time.
The rotor/hub assembly came free of the axle pretty easily, since I had them off for a brake job in April, and every metal to metal surface was treated with grease or anti-seize at that time. The axle comes out easily. Both the axle and hub/rotor are heavy, especially assembled. Don’t be surprised by the weight and drop one.
I removed the tie rod end so the steering knuckle could be completely removed from the truck. One rod end came loose with some light tapping on the forging and on the end of the stud. I recommend you spring for the ball joint removal tool. I found it necessary on the other side. The bushing would have been destroyed by a pickle fork or hammering.
The steering knuckle ball joints came loose with the use of two sizes of pickle forks, a big one and a bigger one. These joints were to be replaced so I did not try to buy a larger removal tool to save them. Leave the nut loosely on the ball joints so when they separate, the knuckle doesn’t fall to the floor or on you.
Here is a decision point. Do you replace the ball joints and u-joints yourself or take them to a machine shop? I did it myself, but it would also be reasonable to let someone else do it, especially if you do this very infrequently. These joints are big. They may be very hard to deal with, if they have been on the truck for along time. It would have been less work time to let a shop do it, but it was the weekend. I had the truck down, and I wanted to get it back on the road. Patience is not one of my virtues.
The book shows a special c-clamp sort of tool to remove the ball studs from the knuckle. I bent a very sound US-made c-clamp trying this method with no result. The special tool appears to be available from JC Whitney for about $120. 00. I did not try it so I can’t offer an opinion on it. A hammer was also tried to no effect whatsoever.
I’ve wanted a hydraulic press, but never had a significant reason to buy one. Harbor Freight had a 20 ton model on sale for $179. With a trip to get it, another trip to get some pipe to make some pressing tools, plus some assembly, it did the job.
The difficulty with the press is that the steering knuckle is very irregularly shaped and still must be supported so the pressing ram is perfectly aligned with the parts to be pressed out. If the stack of ram, extension(s), knuckle, and receiver is crooked, the pieces under pressure will collapse and fly out of the stack with considerable force. The special tool would be safer. Once out, the joints were noticeably looser than the new ones. It was good they were being replaced. They pressed in easily. I applied anti-seize on them prior to assembly. We’ll see if that matters next time.
The universal joints were too big to press apart in the vise with sockets, as is often recommended. With persistence, and sweat, the hammer method worked on one joint but a socket was ruined in the process. The hydraulic press worked fine on these with rams and receivers made from different sized steel pipe. The needle bearings were dry and rusty in the cups which was likely the cause of the original symptom, squealing when the steering right or left. I chose universal joints with Zerk fittings, but they interfere with other surfaces when they turn, so you have to load the grease into the joint, remove the fitting, and install the little plug. This won’t be fun when the joints are next greased, but at least I can get some fresh grease into the part once in a while.
Reassembly was straight forward and is covered elsewhere in the archives and in the manual. I did clean the axle tube with a rag on the end of a stiff wire like a rifle bore cleaner. Anti-seize was applied to all mating surfaces that I might want to disassemble again.
Prior to disassembly, neither the universals nor the ball joints were obviously bad on inspection. Only the noise pointed to them. I’m glad I replaced both, and on both sides. The noise is gone. The steering is a little tighter and there is less noise over bumps.
Thanks again for the help from the forum.
Spike
Portland, OR
First, the archives are a great placed to start. The information there is helpful, so I’ll try not to repeat it. The factory service manual is a must, but it doesn’t tell you everything if this is your first time.
My dealer offered to do bushings alone on both sides for $1400. The u-joints would have been additional. I completed the job for about $700. 00 including some new tools. It took me a weekend and a couple of weekday evenings. It will be lots faster next time.
The rotor/hub assembly came free of the axle pretty easily, since I had them off for a brake job in April, and every metal to metal surface was treated with grease or anti-seize at that time. The axle comes out easily. Both the axle and hub/rotor are heavy, especially assembled. Don’t be surprised by the weight and drop one.
I removed the tie rod end so the steering knuckle could be completely removed from the truck. One rod end came loose with some light tapping on the forging and on the end of the stud. I recommend you spring for the ball joint removal tool. I found it necessary on the other side. The bushing would have been destroyed by a pickle fork or hammering.
The steering knuckle ball joints came loose with the use of two sizes of pickle forks, a big one and a bigger one. These joints were to be replaced so I did not try to buy a larger removal tool to save them. Leave the nut loosely on the ball joints so when they separate, the knuckle doesn’t fall to the floor or on you.
Here is a decision point. Do you replace the ball joints and u-joints yourself or take them to a machine shop? I did it myself, but it would also be reasonable to let someone else do it, especially if you do this very infrequently. These joints are big. They may be very hard to deal with, if they have been on the truck for along time. It would have been less work time to let a shop do it, but it was the weekend. I had the truck down, and I wanted to get it back on the road. Patience is not one of my virtues.
The book shows a special c-clamp sort of tool to remove the ball studs from the knuckle. I bent a very sound US-made c-clamp trying this method with no result. The special tool appears to be available from JC Whitney for about $120. 00. I did not try it so I can’t offer an opinion on it. A hammer was also tried to no effect whatsoever.
I’ve wanted a hydraulic press, but never had a significant reason to buy one. Harbor Freight had a 20 ton model on sale for $179. With a trip to get it, another trip to get some pipe to make some pressing tools, plus some assembly, it did the job.
The difficulty with the press is that the steering knuckle is very irregularly shaped and still must be supported so the pressing ram is perfectly aligned with the parts to be pressed out. If the stack of ram, extension(s), knuckle, and receiver is crooked, the pieces under pressure will collapse and fly out of the stack with considerable force. The special tool would be safer. Once out, the joints were noticeably looser than the new ones. It was good they were being replaced. They pressed in easily. I applied anti-seize on them prior to assembly. We’ll see if that matters next time.
The universal joints were too big to press apart in the vise with sockets, as is often recommended. With persistence, and sweat, the hammer method worked on one joint but a socket was ruined in the process. The hydraulic press worked fine on these with rams and receivers made from different sized steel pipe. The needle bearings were dry and rusty in the cups which was likely the cause of the original symptom, squealing when the steering right or left. I chose universal joints with Zerk fittings, but they interfere with other surfaces when they turn, so you have to load the grease into the joint, remove the fitting, and install the little plug. This won’t be fun when the joints are next greased, but at least I can get some fresh grease into the part once in a while.
Reassembly was straight forward and is covered elsewhere in the archives and in the manual. I did clean the axle tube with a rag on the end of a stiff wire like a rifle bore cleaner. Anti-seize was applied to all mating surfaces that I might want to disassemble again.
Prior to disassembly, neither the universals nor the ball joints were obviously bad on inspection. Only the noise pointed to them. I’m glad I replaced both, and on both sides. The noise is gone. The steering is a little tighter and there is less noise over bumps.
Thanks again for the help from the forum.
Spike
Portland, OR
