Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 95 Cold Start Problems

[JMarsh]

My 95 2500 12v has recently decided it doesn't want to start right up when cold. Anything below 40 degrees or so and it becomes a pain. 50 degrees and warmer, starts right up. When I plug it in, it does start quicker. What happens is when I turn the key after the heat plate has warmed, the engine will fire immediately, and then cut right off. When I do it again, same thing. It fires so fast, you don't really hear the starter, but just won't stay running. If I do this 8-12 times, she finally takes. This also includes putting some pressure on the throttle during the starting process. It didn't do this last year, as it would start in zero degree weather, without being plugged in. I have had to replace the rubber return line a few times over the years, and know what it acts like when I get air in the return. When this always happened, it would crank for a while, then start. This particular condition seems a lot different. Have a new fuel filter in it also.

Any suggestions?

 

[GAmes]

More than likely the hold coil in the fuel shutoff solenoid isn't keeping the lever pulled up after you release the key. You can check it by having someone hold the lever up while you start it.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/569868-fuel-shut-off-solenoid-fss.html

 

[fest3er]

Also verify that the shutoff solenoid boot hasn't rotten and become entangled inside the solenoid; this can also prevent it from operating properly.

 

[TurboFan]

It is common for the fuel screen/fuel heater to develop a leak through the electrical connection.
mine took extra cranking until I replaced the leaking unit

 

[GAmes]

It is common for the fuel screen/fuel heater to develop a leak through the electrical connection.
mine took extra cranking until I replaced the leaking unit

Yes. Most of us delete the heater element because it really serves no purpose. The bowl for the screen will thread right into the hole the heater element uses.

 

[JMarsh]

Checked the fuel solenoid and the boot had rotted. Pulled the boot off and it started right up the first time cold. Will try it this week to see if the problem completely goes away. Can I just get a boot, or do I need to get whole solenoid?

Also, I did remove the fuel heater a few years ago when my return line was leaking. I was trying to track down where air was getting in and thought that may have been the problem.

 

[BigPapa]

Mines been without a boot for over 300K miles with no issues. I'd just make sure you got it all off and run it.

 

[GAmes]

I ran mine without a boot for several hundred thousand miles also, but about once a year I would remove it to clean the bore and piston. At that time a replacement boot was about $30. Now they are a little more reasonable in price, so the decision is up to you. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/sa-4153/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts