2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 95' Front door infinity speaker wires???? Help!

[Fordiesel69]

I found lots of info for the newer 2001 trucks, however the wire colors are not the same as mentioned in those threads. My pass. side door speaker is ripped and make a horrible noise on every bass note. I am looking to replace it with an aftermarket jensen 6x9 just for the winter until I can do the drivers side. I cannot figure out how to wire it.



It is a blizzerd out right now and I was an idiot for trying this today. I should have known better.

 

[Fordiesel69]

Does anybody know how to do this, local shops are packed until after christmas and I cannot figure it out. Can this even be done or do I need a different radio? A local shop said that the speaker has amps built in and need to be factory or else the radio needs to be replaced with aftermarket.



I cannot get my switches disconneted to remove the door panel so I cannot even use the pass side door at the moment. Any help on this would be appriciated. I have found TONS on info for the newer trucks but nothing for 95.

 

[ttbird]

Local shop is right. Factory radio needs amps mounted on speakers. If more than two speakers are bad then it about the same price to buy two normal good speakers and a aftermarket radio. You can still use the wiring. With the factory radio on, use a volt meter on each of the three wires. One will have voltage, one's a ground, the other is speaker feed. Leave volune down. Just tape up the hot and use the other two for the speakers. Once you do one, the others are easy cause know you know the color code.

 

[Fordiesel69]

I simply can;t stand the looks of aftermarket decks, they say STEAL ME AND VANDALIZE MY TRUCK all over them regardless of what facplate, security, and removable options. I have never owned one, but all my friends have gotten their dashes busted and decks stolen.



Anyway, I gave up on waiting, I ended up taking the factory amp off the speaker, and just zip tied the thing to the door and ran the two wires to the new speaker. No destruction of the factory harness and it sounds just like the old speaker. However the door panel did not fit. I ended up taking the tweeter and middler post out of the new speaker, so now it is just a 6x9 woofer just like the factory one. The amp must filter the highs and mids anyway because they did not sound any different once I removed the post.



Most compnent speakers have a sticker over the voice coil magnet, you can peel this off and there is a screw or clip that allows the center post housing the tweeters to be removed. I guess if you want to leave it as close to factory, this is what you need to do because ALL aftermarket 6x9's have a 1" protruding tweeter that will not allow the door panel to go back on.

 

[K5IP]

When you say the speaker is ripped, do you mean the rubber surround is broken?

I have fixed more than a few of these with some plyobond rubber cement. Might be worth a try.

 

[Matt42]

At a time when money was very short, I was able to fix ripped speakers with a little white glue and very thin cotton fabric as a patch. The sound wasn't up to audiophile standards, but better than it had been.

 

[moparmikeJ]

Fordiesel69, You might burn up your amps if you just simply zip-tied them from rattling around. The heat sink of the amp was screwed to a hefty metal piece of the speaker, right? The speaker itself was the amps heat sink.

I actually screwed a piece of aluminum to the heat sink of my amps and then attached the alum. block to one of the braces inside the door. Been working great!

Mike