Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 95 weak points?

[VicR]

Am going to look at a used 95 4x4 w/ 87,000 miles tomorrow. I'm new to the 12 valve world - is there anything in particular to look for? How about the 95's... any weak points in particular?



I'm pouring through the old posts trying to make a list of anything that I should examine in particular so if you have any suggestions, they are appreciated.



-Vic

 

[gjacobs]

I have a '95 with 251K on it. The only things that I have done to it are change out the steering box, a couple of modules under the hood and little adjustments here and there. The only thing that I really have a problem with it the auto transmission. I bought it for mileage but am now pulling more than I had planned, it's a real p. o. s. Anyway I imagine with that low of mileage you will have many years of satisfaction.

 

[TKemper]

Vic, I would look over the injection pump real good. Check to see if the safety wires and break off/tamper proof screws have been touched. That way you know if someone has tinkered with it. See this link for what I'm talking about. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/14-07-97/part1.htm

Todd

 

[lpearson]

Vic



My friend Dan has a 95 with 325,000 on it. His truck is probably the main reason I bought a Cummins. He's had normal maintenance items, still has the original clutch, never had the front end aligned, changes oil every 6000 or so. He is in construction and has worked this truck hard. Still gets 18 mpg, starts right up on the first crank, never done anything to the engine except I talked him into a TST plate at 295,000, and he likes it. I think 95 was a heck of a year for Dodge if his truck is any indication.



Regards,

Lowell

 

[illflem]

Over 300k combined miles on my '95s. Besides the trackbar and a couple problems early on under warranty everything else has been fixed on recalls

 

[Ben Rumson]

Break pads and transmission cooler lines...

I bought my '95 in '97 with 78k on it - Basically the same as you - except your's has much lower average miles per year.



Immediately after buying the truck I replaced one of the front disc break clipers with a rebuild. Then the other caliper at 130k. Both rebuilds have a lifetime warrantee/replacement through Autozone.



I replaced the track bar at 130k (Luke's Link will fix it the next go around) and have replace the upper and lower ball joint on both sides. Only the lower joints showed any movement, but I replaced the top while I was at it.



All of the above is waht I consider normal wear and before I go further, I need to say that I LOVE my truck and it has been very dependable. Because of how hard this truck pulls and how dependable it's been my Dad and brother now own one.



What I consider ABOVE average wear and something you should be aware of IMO is Front Breaks Wear Quickly and Transmission Quick Connects can go bad.



Front Break Pads

I go through front break pad fairly quickly. The '95 uses very small pads for such a heavy truck and in towing situations. Newer years have been beefed up. The breaks don't fail, they just wear fairly quick. Again, I have lifetime warranty replacement through Autozone. But adjusting the rear pads by hand can really extend the front pads (I just started doing this - thanks to Illflem pointing this out)



Transmission Quick Connects

'94 - '97 trucks used either a plastic fitting (can MELT) or a thin wire (can BREAK) to snap or hold the transmission lines in their fittings. These are prone to wear and cause loss of ATF and transmission damage. Crawl under the truck with a flashlight and check these lines.



You have 3 transmission cooler lines.

A) from the front of the transmission to the rear fitting under the exhaust manifold (this is the Heat Exchanger).

B) from the front fitting under the ex. manifold to the front of the truck (small radiator/cooler) and

C) from the front cooler (radiator) to the rear fitting on the trans.



Check all 6 fittings where the metal lines slide into them for any signs of grime or accumulation of fluid that might suggest that the fitting as started to leak or fail.



Replacement fittings are available through the dealer and Weatherhead makes a replacement fitting for the to fittings at the transmisison.



I recently (155k miles) replaced the transmission cooler lines ($350) with entirely new lines. 2 of the quick connect fittings had started to leak - both had the thin wire retainer clip. One had broken completely. The other had worn thin and allowed enough movement of the metal (male) end to move slightly and grime was starting to build around it. The 1998 lines and fittings have been redesigned and will fit the '95's. If you're interested in more about the lines, search using my name and you'll find where I posted the part numbers and prices.



My 2 cents worth

Familiarize youself with the transmission line fittings and keep an eye on them and anticipate replacing the front breaks regularly.



I LOVE my truck and am continually amazed at how well it runs and pulls - It LOVES to get a load behind it - literally comes ALIVE.



Hope this helps you check out your new rig and inform you a bit.



Let us know what you decide to do.

 

[DavidGardner]

141,000 on mine. No problems other than one set of brakes and one set of tires replaced at 90,000 miles. I love this truck and it loves to pull. Seems nlike the more you load it up the more it likes it. The engine just sounds better when it has a load on it. See my sig for my mods.

 

[Reb.B]

the only real minus is the inj. pump and injectors. The 215's are much more desireable.

 

[ray1933]

95 info

Got it new, now has 130k and still running great.



When I had the front brakes done at 105K the front U Joints were shot and the drivers side ball joints needed to be replaced. "I would check those for sure".



At about 104 K the starter went south.



I did the KDP fix so that is not a worry. '



Installed a 4 inch exhaust from turbo to tailpipe, did not need it, I just wanted it done.



I just rebuilt the drivers side seat as I had a bad habit of sliding out, off the seat and wore the edge of the seat out.



Got new seat covers from Genos garage , so it is like new now.



With the Camper on and the horse trailer or Boat on behind

it just hauls you know what.

 

[VicR]

Thanks, but...

Thanks for the posts and PM's. I took a good long look at that 95 but decided to pass as it was a little rougher than I wanted. BUT, I looked at another 95 today, basically the same set up (regular cab, 4x4, auto) that drove a whole lot better even though it had 40,000 more miles on it.



It only had two problems I could find: First, the ABS and brake lights would not go out, but it had set for a few weeks so that might be part of the problem - have to research it more.



Second, that thing smokes like a freight train. I had driven it about 2 blocks and looked in the rear view and almost jumped out because I thought something was on fire! It was a cold day today and it had sat for at least a few days, but how much smoke is normal for these 12v's? It smoked at idle and under power! It was mostly white smoke, but turned blue once or twice when it was making power. I didn't get a chance to warm it up, but my 24v never smoked this much in its whole life, cold or not. This 95 is completely stock w/ 128k on it.



Any thoughts?



Thanks,



-Vic (hunting down a good 2nd gen 4x4)

 

[Jeff H]

Lost a injection pump at 61k. Replaced under warrenty.

 

[Ben Rumson]

Re: Thanks, but...

Originally posted by Vic R

... Second, that thing smokes like a freight train. I had driven it about 2 blocks and looked in the rear view and almost jumped out because I thought something was on fire! It was a cold day today and it had sat for at least a few days, but how much smoke is normal for these 12v's? It smoked at idle and under power! It was mostly white smoke, but turned blue once or twice when it was making power. I didn't get a chance to warm it up, but my 24v never smoked this much in its whole life, cold or not. This 95 is completely stock w/ 128k on it.



Any thoughts?



Thanks,



-Vic (hunting down a good 2nd gen 4x4)

Only accurate way to tell if it's burning oil (highly unlikely with that few miles unless it has been pounded real bad) or if the fuel adjustments are off is to let it get completely up to temperature. I mean, don't just wait for the temp gauge to hit 140, but run it good and hard for at least 10 min or so once it gets above 140.



Also, fuel additives may contirbute to the smoke. My '95 12'er has a lot more white smoke in the winter than the summer. Once it's thoroughly (the entire block and engine compartment) up to temp then you shouldn't get much smoke. Even with my BOMBs, I don't get much white smoke when the engine is HOT.



White smoke is typically a sign that the combustion is not hot enough to adequately burn everything real well. Black smoke is raw power.