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'96 Chevy Suburban - Windshield wiper question

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My husband posts on this website all the time about his Dodge Truck so now it is my turn. I have a '96 Chevy Suburban and my windshield wipers have started to act erratic. Most of the time they work fine. But they have started to either not work at all or stop working after they were working fine. They will sometimes come back on if you turn the switch back and forth from off to fast a couple of times and then sometimes you just have to wait a while and then it will start working again. When it doesn't work you can still hear the motor trying to work but with no success. My question is - do I need to replace the switch or the motor? I am also wondering if replacing the switch is something that we can do or does the dealer have to do it since there is an air bag in the steering wheel? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks

Heather
 
it kinda sounds like the problem i had with the wipers on my tahoe [1997] my problem was some cracked solder joints on the circute board that is attached to the wiper motor assembly. if have & you know how to use a soldering iron, you can fix it for free. . below is what i cut&pasted from the alt. autos. 4x4. chevy-trucks newsgroup. hope it helps...

*****************************************************

-->Mid-90's Chevy and GMC Wiper Module Circuit Board

Replacement and/or Repair Procedures



The fault in this circuit board is quite common and is attributed to bad

solder joints from either design error or manufacturing flaw. Symptoms

which indicate a bad circuit board include (but are not limited to): wipers

will not work or work intermittently; wipers stop working for no apparent

reason, maybe even in mid-stroke; wiper function is erratic, with no delay

feature, delay is the same regardless of setting, or no low- or high-speed

setting; wipers may start to work if you tap on the wiper module or move the

electrical connector.



You have a choice of either Repairing your existing circuit board yourself,

or Replacing it.



Replacement - You have at least three options available to you, depending on

your relationship with your dealer and how much of a stink you want to put

up.



1. Pay for the replacement part plus the labor to have the dealer install it

(~$50 for the part plus ? for labor. Most expensive, least work).

2. Pay for the replacement part and install it yourself (~$50 for the part,

your labor is free. Takes about 15 minutes. ).

3. Have the part replaced under recall if applicable (Free, minus the time

your truck will be in the shop. Least expensive, most work. ).

4. (Repair it yourself - Instructions below after Replacement)



Option #1 is very straightforward, just go down to your local dealer and

have him do the work and pay the bill when he is finished. You don't even

have to read any further.



Option #2 is also very straightforward. Have the parts department research

the correct part number for your model year circuit board, purchase the part

from them and install it. The wiper module is a small 2"x 4" black box

attatched somewhere near the top of the firewall on the driver's side. It

has the wiper motor mounted to it, and an electrical connector plugged into

the end. Remove the electrical connector first, and using a Torx (6-pointed

star) driver, remove the cover from the module. The circuit board sits

directly underneath the cover and will be coated with grease. Gently pry

the circuit board out of the module, do a little spring cleaning inside the

case and add a dab of grease to the drive gears if needed. Install the new

circuit board in the same manner as the old one was. Clean the inside of

the cover and reinstall with the same Torx head screws.



Option #3 gets a little involved. First you must find a recall notice for

your truck. Start by checking on the internet at www.nhtsa.gov and drill

down thru the links for recalls to determine if your truck is actually

listed (there are other sites to check as well). Just because your truck

may not be listed doesn't mean it's not under recall. It could easily

depend on how your truck is described. For example, a 1995 Chevrolet C1500

Pick-up could easily be listed as a C1500, 1500, 1500-3500, C-Series, C/K

Series, Chevrolet Truck, GM Truck, C10 (the old designation), etc. It would

pay to look under as many designations as you can think of before giving up.



If you find your truck as listed, so much the better. Print out a copy of

the recall and wave it at your dealer's service manager and they should fix

it No Questions Asked. If they still refuse, contact Chevrolet/GMC Customer

Assistance and/or the NHTSA's hotline (both are toll-free and listed on

their respective web sites).



If you do not find your truck specifically listed, all hope is not yet lost.

Search for the same truck under a different model year, or a substantially

similar vehicle which does have a recall (For example, the Chevy Blazer

shares the same wiper components as the Chevy S-10 and Astro, the GMC Jimmy,

Safari and Sonoma, the Olds Bravada, etc. ). Print out a copy of the recall

for the other vehicle and go to your dealer's parts department. Have them

search for the part number of the circuit board for the recalled vehicle,

then for the part number for your truck. Odds are in your favor that they

will both be exactly the same. Hence, your wiper module is one of the

faulty ones being recalled and should be covered but your truck may have

been left off the recall list. Take this info to the service manager and

depending on how much he wants to keep you as a customer, he will find a way

to have the board replaced under the recall. If not, then you still have

options #1 and #2 above, or you could fix your existing board yourself.



Repair - You can easily repair your existing board if you know how to turn a

screwdriver and know which end of a soldering gun to hold. If you haven't

mastered either of these skills, then have someone else do the job for you.



Step 1 - Locate the wiper module and remove the circuit board as described

in Option #2 above. Be VERY careful removing the circuit board. Do not

crack, bend or break it or you're outta luck and will have to buy a new one.

The circuit board is approx. 2"x 4" and has two distinct sides. The top is

the side where all the components live, especially the large black socket

for the electrical connector (more on that later). The bottom is where all

the lead wires from the electrical components poke thru the board and are

soldered to the printed circuit. Carefully wipe the excess grease off the

board.



Step 2 - The fault in the board is caused by bad solder joints holding the

large socket onto the printed circuit. If the board itself is cracked or

broken, then you will have to get a new one. Carefully inspect the tiny

mounds of solder underneath the large socket on the bottom of the board.

Each drop of solder connects a lead wire from the socket to the printed

circuit. A bad solder joint may look like it has a tiny circle in the drop

of solder around the wire end, a chip or crack in the little mound of

solder, or it may be too small to see. At this point you will need a

soldering gun and solder, and a steady hand.



Step 3 - Set your circuit board bottom side up so you can see the solder

joints for the socket onto the printed circuit. Heat up your soldering gun

and apply just a tiny drop of solder to the tip. Place the hot tip with the

melted solder directly onto the existing solder joint in question just long

enough until the gun melts the existing solder and the new solder mixes in

with it. Remove the gun from the work and allow to cool. Remelting the

original solder and adding some extra should repair the joint and make

continuity again and reinforce it. Repeat for all the solder joints in

question, and/or all the solder joints for the socket. Don't overheat your

work, or solder may run down and create a short to another circuit, or you

may unknowingly fry a component on the other side of the board.



Step 4 - Allow everything to cool, then reinstall the board as listed in

Option #2 above.
 
Wow Nick! Many thanks for the reply. You made my job easy. Now I just have to dig in and look around. Thanks to you, I didn't stop by the Chebby dealer today and throw away any money.



Thanks again... eh!

David
 
wipers

some time on the printed circut board attached to wipper motor

there are uasally couple of bad solder joints [they are dull gray color, not bright and shiney] re solder and unit ussally works

also post over on www.dieselpage.com i know they have run into this problem before

hope this helps
 
Had the same problem with my 95 Sub. , pulled the circuit board and soldered the one connection closest to where the board plugs in. The crack was hard to see, used a magnifying glass to verify that the solder had a crack in it. Worked fine after that. Good Luck!:)
 
You all were all correct! All 5 of the pins that hold the plug connector to the board had bad solder joints. I re-soldered and it seems to work fine.

Yet again the TDR saved me some money!



Thanks so much to all of you for the replies.



David
 
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