Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 96 fuel filter change procedure

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) coolant leak

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) CaTCHER on ice

Status
Not open for further replies.
what is the exact procedure for changing the fuel filter on a 96. do i have to depressurize the system or something. i usually have mine changed every 6 months. i see the guy do it everytime and all he does is remove the filter, fill the new filter with fuel, twist on and he revs the crap out of it upon starting. but i want to do it myself and i don't want any problems
 
Theres no trick to it. Ya don't really have to rev it up after it starts. But if it doesn't start after a couple tries of hitting the starter, you'll have to use the primer pump. It's located directly below the fuel filter. You can use a short broom handle or something like that to make it easier to reach the pump and push the button.



Nathan
 
That's basically it. I think 96 & 97 are the same... . there is a 15mm nut fixed to the top of the houseing (it won't come off) just use a socket and rachet on it and the housing slowly lowers down.



oh yeah DRAIN IT! first. :-laf The little yellow slide button on the front side of the housing.



Remove housing, remove filter, install new filter and check the small o-ring on the shaft that holds the housing up as well as check to make sure the large gasket on the filter itself came off two. If that larger gasket is left on it will make a mess QUICK!



Reinstall the housing... ... and you can either pre-fill it with fuel (if you have any extra diesel lying around which I never do :rolleyes: ) or you can use the primer on the lift pump which will take a few minutes of pushing to do.



Oh yeah if you use the primer button don't fully tighten the housing up, that gives the air somewhere to escape. Once you get fuel coming out of it, then retighten it.



IMPORTANT: When you go to start the truck hold the pedal to the floor while cranking, and feather the throttle to keep it running once it fires. If you don't you just might get air in the lines then you'll have to loosen the lines and crank it over to get air out.



That's really a lot simpler than it looks and I probably could have said it in less words too. :-laf
 
That's all you do, no pressure in system. I use a strap wrench. You have to reach up and get the flat "O" ring off of the spindle that the filter screws on to, replace that and lube the filter gasket ring with oil. If you fill it with fuel, make sure it's very clean because if it has dirt in it the dirt goes to your pump. I prefer to install the filter empty. It's easier to install without spilling. Then I take a sawed off broom handle and pump it full of fuel with the button on the lift pump. I crack the bleeder on top of the filter housing and pump until fuel comes out. Shut the bleeder and start. Will run rough for a few seconds and you're done.
 
Don't forget to unplug the WIF (water in fuel) sensor which is located on the bottom of the filter.
 
You don't have to bleed the injector lines on a 12 valve to start it. It will even start if the injector lines are completely empty. In that case, it will require that you stop and let the starter cool a couple of times, but it WILL start. It will run rough for a little bit before all the air is out of the lines.
 
On my 96, I fill the filter before installing it. I then use the primer button until I get resistance and then hit it a few more times. You can actually hear the air being bleed out of the injection system. It runs rough for a few seconds when I first start it as it purges the rest of the air out of the system then runs fine. Oh, and don't forget a box of band aids. My truck bites when I change the fuel filter.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top