2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission '96 Hubs won't come off ?!?!? HELP

[RJPotts]

Alright. On my '96 the passenger side caliper stuck for some reason for an unknown amount of time and now my rotor is shot. I got new rotors, calipers, and brake pads for both sides. I pulled the calipers off both sides easy enough. Removed the big axle nut and cotter pin, then removed the four knuckle to hub bolts. According to the all knowing, all seeing Haynes manual and my Dodge service manual, and my friend's online service manual the rotor and hub and everything should just "slide off" as one piece.

Well... they don't, neither side.

Both sides spin freely and I can move the axleshaft in and out about 1/4" easily by hand.

I used about a whole can of WD-40 on either side spraying everything I could think of. . still nothing.

I gave it a little tappy tappy while I pried on it, I beat the ever living h*ll out of it with a sledge, fabricated a plate that goes on the wheel studs and attaches to my slide hammer. Nothing is working. Any ideas?

Thanks and sorry for the length.

-R. J.

 

[nps]

There was a procedure for power steering assisted hub removal. Basically threading in a hub retainer bolt part way, using a socket as a gap-filler, and then using the power steering to push on the bolt and force the hub out.



Do a search and you should find the specific details. Be careful - if the hub comes apart you will be buying new ones.

 

[TJarecke]

Did you partially thread on the bolts and air hammer on the 4 bolts that hold on the bearing hub assembly? Beat hard on it before you pull too hard on the hub. That is an expensive bearing. Good Luck

 

[vssman]

Thread the screws most of the way back in. Use a hammer (and punch if necessary) to drive the hub free from the knuckle. Go back and forth so that you don't just cock the hub and lock it in the knuckle. Once it moves a bit, unscrew the screws some more and repeat until it's apart.

 

[RJPotts]

OK, so what you all are saying is thread the four knuckle to hub bolts back in a little and beat them for a while? That's easy enough.

One more question that I just thought of. While I was doing all of this I was turning the wheel back and forth without the engine running. After a few times doing it I turned the wheel to the left until it locked and some power steering fluid came out of somewhere. Looked like it came from the reservior cap. Is this normal?

I'll try beating on it that way when I get home from work.

Thanks for the advice.

-R. J.

 

[TJarecke]

I am not sure on the power steering fluid? I have helped change front end equipment on my 97, a 99 and an 03. The 97 was way easier. The 03 was not fun at all. We called a reputable dealer in the area about the 03 and they told us to beat the you know what out of it to get it off. They also said that the 97 and earlier trucks are easier to take apart. The air hammer on the back side bolts is part of the procedure from a quad4x4 kit. Remember to put antisieze on the mating surfaces when you reinstall it. Knowing these trucks you will have it apart again. And also check other parts while you have it apart, u-joints etc. Easier to do now.

 

[Glen Pratt]

If all else fails, you'll need one of these babies:
#ad

 

[jkalchik]

And if you use one of those, you'll probably ruin an expensive hub bearing (as also noted above. )



I just don't know WHY folks insist that a puller on the studs is the way to go. You're pulling on the inner race when it's the outer race that's stuck in place. All of that force gets transmitted through the rolling elements and damages them and the races.



You want to push through on the hub bolts from the inner side of the knuckle.



Edit: WAIT! and another reason to NOT use the pictured puller. All that will do is push the outer axle through, and push it the axle up against the carrier. I don't even want to think about the trouble that will cause.

 

[MLeppen]

This IS the way!

There was a procedure for power steering assisted hub removal. Basically threading in a hub retainer bolt part way, using a socket as a gap-filler, and then using the power steering to push on the bolt and force the hub out.



Do a search and you should find the specific details. Be careful - if the hub comes apart you will be buying new ones.

Use different extension lenghts and socket to fill the gap with engine running have helper turn wheel it will pop out quickly using this method.

I beat on my hub bolts with air hammer, pulled bearings apart(ruined) was pizzed off then tried the above mentioned method ..... presto, they popped out.

 

[JAlford]

If you pull the bearing apart, don't just throw it away. I cleaned mine up, repacked it with grease, and pressed it back together - with a small shop press. Works fine. Have been driving it for several thousand miles since. I plan to change it (I bought a new one from Quad4x4) when the rotors are completely gone - sometime this summer.

Suggestion - if you have ABS sensors, put a protective layer of aluminum tape or wire protector or something on the wire. The dust sheild will burn right thru the insulation and short out the pickup sensor.

Hope that helps.

Jeff

 

[Clinton]

I pulled my '96's hubs off this summer and used the power steering assist method outlined above. I think this method works best with a helper to turn the wheel. You'll find you're getting out and repositioning your tools quite often. That's how I did it, but I was wishing for a helper. Anyway, it works quite well and so long as you use some sense it seems pretty safe.

 

[RJPotts]

I guess we'll try that method. Let me get this right before I try since beating and air hammering on the "knuckle-to-hub" bolts didn't work.

I run the bolt down in the hole a prety good way so that it doesn't move too far and use extensions or whatever else I can find to take up space b/t the bolt and whatever will be pushing on it then turn the wheel... . and keep doing this one side of the knuckle at a time until it lets go.

Then grease and anti-seize the ever living h*ll out of it.

I'll give it a try. If thats not absolutely correct someone please clarify for me.

Thanks,

-R. J.

 

[nps]

Thats it RJ.

 

[jwdeeming]

Please post your results with the power steering method - I'll be trying this when I get home tonight.



My truck is it home on jack stands with the hub split in half because the wheel puller only got it split open. That's ok because the purpose of this expedition was to replace the bearings anyway, but it's sure nice to know the non-destructive method if I'm ever doing this just for fun.

 

[Glen Pratt]

I've used the type of puller that I posted in the picture. All other methods failed. The drivers side came right off no problem. The passenger side did come off but the bearing seperated. I was able to grease it and press it back together and it was good for over 50,000 miles with 36. 0" tires. The problem is when they are installed on the assembly line no anti-seize is used. Read any Dodge truck service manual and it states when installing unitized hub bearing assemblies, apply liberal amounts of anti-seize. Once they are lubed with anti-seize they come right off the next time with little effort.

 

[wcjp]

Using antiseize on the metal to metal contact surfaces will greatly aid future removal. Have you tried reattaching the wheel? This would give you something to yank with.

 

[RJPotts]

I tried the extensions and sockets trick and I didn't have a helper so I forgot about that idea.

Consequently, I tried the air hammer again just because I didn't have anything else to do and it came right off this time.

I guess I wasn't holding my mouth right the first time or something. Oh well, its been apart and now its back together with plenty of anti-seize. Thanks for the help all.

-R. J.

 

[Big E]

I just finished doing the ball joints and axle u-joint on my '96. I beat the hell out of, and pried on the thing for about an hour with no luck. Tried the socket and extension trick, and it popped right out. I tried it without the engine running because I was afraid of bending something. It worked with just a moderate amount of pull on the steering wheel.



A thousand "Thank You's" to whoever came up with this idea.

 

[Glen Pratt]

You'll be a happy camper next time you have to remove your hubs. You'll be amazed how easy they come off with a nice slathering of anti-seize. Glad you got them off.