Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) '96 Wheelwell Fuel Filter Change?

[RT66DOC]

Has anyone approached the fuel filter by going through the wheelwell?



My truck has 4 wheel ABS which really gets in the way - impossible to see the filter and can barely get a hand on it. Seems like it might be more accessible by removing the wheel and liner but thought I'd solicit opinions first. Filter really needs changed - 60K miles on it. TIA

 

[CarlJensen]

I had a 70 Corvette I had the same filter problem with, could not get at it. I cut a panel in the wheel well liner and ringed it with a piece of plastic material with captive nuts installed in it. All I had to do was unscrew the fasteners and drop the plate out and the filters were right in front of me. I am thinking on doing the same here with my 95. Sure makes it a lot easier!

 

[RBratby]

thats a good idea ill have to give that a try also. it is about time to change the fuel filter anyways.

 

[Sjester]

I just did a 95 this weekend. Much more difficult than the 98 12v I just traded, but it can be done without moving anything with a strap wrench. In fact you can do it twice (remove and replace) in one day if you forget to fill it with fuel the first time!

 

[CarlJensen]

I have a pusher pump on mine so all I have to do is crack the 10mm port bolt at the top of the filter and turn on the pump. It fills and primes itself!!

 

[Joe G.]

Tom,



Your '96 has a vacuum brake booster. You can remove the nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the booster. Then lean the master cylinder toward the fender. That will give you a little more room.

 

[RT66DOC]

Thanks Joe - I did a search and read some of your old posts that mentioned moving the master cylinder but what about the attached hard lines getting bent? Do they flex enough to allow the master cyl to move?



Sometimes I cuss myself for ordering this truck with 4 whl ABS, especially because I've never had a situation where they needed to activate. Of course if I didn't have it some life and death panic stop would certainly have occurred. We all know how that goes.



I'm going out to the garage right now to have another look at that master cyl.

 

[JJW_ND]

Here was helped me....

Move the two large relays from directly above the fuel filter to the drivers side as far as the wires reach. I just permantly attached the relays at this spot.



I pull the dipstick and remove the bolt holding the dipstick tube and move it out of the way. A stap wrench works best. Work from the top. Drain all the fuel first (all the fuel). I install the filter dry. Makes a little extra work to pump it full but you never spill a drop.



I have changed my fuel filter 20 times. Once in a truckstop parking lot during a blizzard. You get pretty good at it and don't think it is really that big a deal after a while. I also have 4WABS and never touch my Vacumn booster.



jjw

ND

 

[Joe G.]

No problem leaning the master cylinder. There is plenty of flex in the brake lines.



I use a large screw driver as chizel on the upper rim of the filter. Just a few whacks and it's loose enough to unscrew by hand.



I talked to a friend who has a brake and front end shop about ABS before I ordered my '95. He said it's not worth the money. By the time you get in a situation where it might help you are really in deep yogurt so it's too late. I didn't get it. So far, my panic stops have been successful.