Archived 96 won't start

[JTravers]

Went to crank the truck and it began to crank but immediately stopped. Now it will not crank at all. Batteries are 5 years old but have had no issue with them. There is voltage at the starter cable. Pulled starter and checked the contacts and they are in good shape. Start relay and coil are working. What should I check next?

 

[SEmerson]

Can you turn the engine over by hand? (nut on altinator works well for this)

 

[Skydiver]

What is the voltage on your batteries when they are isolated ( disconnected from each other ) ?

 

[JTravers]

Engine will turn over by hand. Isolated batteries read 12. 5 volts each. Is it possible the starter itself just gave up?

 

[SEmerson]

I would take the cover off the starter relay. It is the driver side front most relay under the hood. Then use your fingers to fire it. If it doesn't turn over then take the starter out.

 

[McLaughlin]

Engine will turn over by hand. Isolated batteries read 12. 5 volts each. Is it possible the starter itself just gave up?

Its possible. If the relay check mentioned earlier indicates a bad starter. Then you might check the contacts in the starter which are prone to wearing out. I've seen several threads where Larry B's were a recommended upgrade.

 

[JTravers]

I fired it by hand and it and the starter does nothing. I also fired it with the key and watched the start relay and it is working fine on it's own. I hear another relay clicking on the firewall when the start relay engages. Do you know what that is? After I pull this starter (again), how do you recommend I test it?

 

[Dieselnut59]

First, have a friend try to start it while you tap on the starter. If this works and you have checked the contacts (as you mentioned), it is most likely the motor brushes in the starter. Another way to test it is to put it in a vice, take a pair of jumper cables and hook the positive to the stud on the solenoid and to the positive on a known good battery, the negative to the negative of the battery and to the flange on the starter (where it bolts to the engine). take a jumper wire and touch it between the solenoid activation terminal and the positive stud. If the solenoid activates and you know the contacts are good, the starter should run. If not, it is most likely the brushes in the motor.

 

[JTravers]

OK, I tested the starter on the bench and it works like a champ. So there must be something between the start relay and the starter that is not quite right.

 

[Loren]

If it were me, I'd do the cheap and easy test first.



I recommend changing the batteries for two known good ones. If that doesn't work then you can do all the other things recommended. (Good recommendations, by the way. )



I have experience with LarryB's starter contacts, and can recommend that modification.



Good luck,

Loren

 

[JTravers]

It Lives again. Turns out my Larry B diode is the problem. Seems the thing just came apart so I will have to get a new one. I took it out of the circuit and all is well. I sure went the long way around to find that problem. Thanks for all of you help, you folks provided the path to get me back to the diode and I did find that I need to replace the boot on my fuel shut off solenoid. Thanks again..... jtravers

 

[Missouri Mule]

The click you hear on the firewall mite be fuel shutoff solenoid.



Back to starter.

Take out the starter relay put a test light probe into female contact slot nearest battery if it doesn't light you have found your problem(broken wire, fuse). If it lights up take a solid wire (houes wire) put into slot nearest battery and female contact slot opposite of it (furthest away) this should engage starter solenoid (starter should crank) if it doesn't your problem is between there and starter solenoid(broken wire?) . (I believe ignition has to be in run position to get power to starter relay, but you can try test both ways. )



I checked out the female contact on mine (nearest to battery) it is hot all the time.

Disclaimer: Make sure truck is in Park or neutral when you try this.