97 Cummins into 93 Ford F350

[DPinkston]

I got a 97 engine on 9/30 so it's busted knuckles every night and weekend for the foreseeable future. I have a well equipped shop with an overhead gantry hoist and a 2 post lift so it could be alot worse.

My truck originally had a 460. I had a wrecked 92 F250 that was 7. 3 equipped so it has come in real handy as a donor. I am keeping a log of expenses and time but here's the Cliff Notes version.

Progress so far:

460 and all accompanying stuff removed.

Fuel tanks converted.

Flattened ridge on firewall by using a bottle jack and pushing against the front crossmember. Better than beating on it.

Moved the ZF transmission back 3". Had to move crossmember like amount and weld up/cut out new hole for shifter.

Plan to modify t-case shifter so I don't have to move the hole on that one.

7. 3 diesel towers installed.

Driveshafts are to be dropped off at machine shop tomorrow to shorten/lengthen 3".

Waiting on 2 crucial parts, the engine to transmission adapter and the motor mounts. There's still alot I can do while I am waiting, but progress may come to a halt if I don't receive the items by next week. I am not going to worry about cosmetics unless I run out of other stuff to do.

I have built a stand for the Cummins and I will fire it up sometime this week just long enough to check for unusual noises and oil pressure. I have a 30 day guarantee and I am doubtful I will have it in the truck and running by then.

Danny

 

[RWelch]

Just curious, how did you determine that three inches was needed for transmission crossmember relocation? Were you able to set your engine in the truck where it will be permanently bolted to determine how far the rest of the drivetrain will be moved back?



Where are you getting your conversion parts? If you have'nt already purchased all your conversion parts, then shop around. It really pays to shop around.



Keep posting about your progress and good luck.



Randy

 

[DPinkston]

I was told by 2 different shops and an individual that 3 inches was required. When I got the engine, I measured from the fan hub to the rear face of the block and added 1" for the adapter. Came up with 38 1/4". Then I measured the available distance between the radiator and the stock transmission position and confirmed that for a 1" clearance between the fan and the radiator a 3" setback was needed.

I am getting some parts from FordCummins, some from Reliable Diesel. I shopped around as best I could but since this truck is my main source of transportation and used in my business I don't have the luxury of shopping for bargains.

Danny

 

[RWelch]

Danny,



Thanks for the reply. I like to hear how others go about their conversions. I figure I can probably learn something new if I ever do another one. Sounds like you're well on your way. You'll be very pleased with the new performance your truck will have.

I also went through Ford/Cummins and Reliable Diesel for parts. I really liked Reliable's engine mounts. Very easy to use.



Randy

 

[DPinkston]

Didn't receive all the parts I expected to get on Friday so weekend activity is going to be limited. I did get the engine fired up on the stand today and it sounds good, no unusual noises, and the oil pressure was at 70lbs idling. This puts my mind at ease as my guarantee period continues to erode while I am waiting for parts.

Danny

 

[BV]

Danny - I will get you those belt numbers tonight and shot you an email.



BTW - Deer hunting was hot and dry and ended up with a forked horn but the best part is that FrankenDezul got 21. 46 mpg getting there. Still need to fill the tanks and pencil out the whole 800 mile trip but I'm confident of averaging 19-20 which is better then my 99 Ram could ever do. My folks enjoyed riding around with more leg room also.



Hope Roger (fordcummins) ships your parts faster then he did mine. Hang in there.



Marty

 

[DPinkston]

I set the engine in the truck last night. It's not bolted down yet, just half sitting, half suspended in position. I have about 1 1/2" between the radiator and the fan, but only 5/8" or so between the turbo and plastic heater box. As BV did, I wrapped the heater box with insulating material from Therma-Tec.

I have about 20 hours or so of work I can do under the hood to get everything wired, plumbed, or bolted in, but after that unless I have received my trans adapter by then I'll be twidling my thumbs. I need a break anyhow.

Danny

 

[DPinkston]

Progress report. Common practice on Ford conversions is to mount the AC compressor to the left of the valve cover on top of the intake and run it with a seperate belt. Instead of a 2 belt setup I have engineered a system that will allow one belt to turn all accessories. Hope it works as good as it looks. The radiator support, AC condenser and intercooler are mounted. The intercooler is off of a 98 & up SuperDuty and only minor mods were required to my radiator support to get it to fit. I need to cut the mounting tabs off both sides of the radiator and fab brackets to top mount it. I had to remove my winch because of interference with the intercooler. I'll have to rework the bumper/winch mount one of these days. Got a pretty good idea of how to connect the intercooler to the turbo and intake, just got to gather parts to do it. Anybody got a steel intake tube they don't need? I am going to cut it up and splice in angle(s) from mandrel bent 3" tubing to get everything lined up so that the rubber connections are simply straight pieces of rubber/silicone. I've got a 4" exhaust system on order. I am about $500 over budget too. The expenses for the small details really add up. By the end of week I should be out of work unless I get my transmission adapter.

Danny

 

[DPinkston]

90% done under the hood, in fact, the hood is on. Waiting on intercooler couplers to arrive. The stock Dodge airfilter box will not fit between the fenderwell and the closed hood of the Ford. So I go buy a BHAF. Not enough clearance for it either. Brainstorm determines course of action. Fabricate brackets to move righthand battery to sit on fenderwell and BHAF will fit nicely into area once inhabited by battery. Still waiting on transmission adapter. Drumming fingers..... Twiddling thumbs.....

Danny

 

[JSpecht]

I set the engine in the truck last night. It's not bolted down yet, just half sitting, half suspended in position. I have about 1 1/2" between the radiator and the fan, but only 5/8" or so between the turbo and plastic heater box. As BV did, I wrapped the heater box with insulating material from Therma-Tec.

I have about 20 hours or so of work I can do under the hood to get everything wired, plumbed, or bolted in, but after that unless I have received my trans adapter by then I'll be twidling my thumbs. I need a break anyhow.

Danny

I just bought one a 92 crew cab last night and are going to do this to mine to do you have any pics of fire wall clearance & heater box clearance we are doing this with a truck with a 3'' body lift and it clears good but the 92 doesn't have a body lift AND what do Reliable Diesel mounts look like and cost and how do you get ahold of them??? THANKS

 

[BV]

Sorry I didn't take pictures of the firewall clearance - Maybe Danny did. Click Here for a picture of my heater box/turbo clearance.



Reliable Diesel & Auto

3057 E Main St

MESA, AZ 85213 - 9458

(480) 325-6262

 

[DPinkston]

I just bought one a 92 crew cab last night and are going to do this to mine to do you have any pics of fire wall clearance & heater box clearance we are doing this with a truck with a 3'' body lift and it clears good but the 92 doesn't have a body lift AND what do Reliable Diesel mounts look like and cost and how do you get ahold of them??? THANKS

Sorry about the late response. I been busy! I haven't had a chance to get any additional pics, but a 3" body lift can only help to alleviate any clearance issues. Can't say for sure how much firewall clearance I will wind up with since I haven't received my transmission adapter yet , the engine is just sitting there all wired up and plumbed with no place to go. After you pull the old engine out you should set a spacer and a bottle jack on the front crossmember and push the ridge in the firewall back flush with the surrounding metal. Or you can pound on it with a hammer, but I think the bottle jack method is better. I have the stock Ford rubber sound barrier on the firewall and it was molded to the ridge so it still looks like the valve cover is hitting but it's not. I only have about 5/8" clearance between the turbo and the heater box, but after I get the transmission in I may be able to loosen the motor mounts up and rotate the top of the engine to the left to gain a little more clearance. The motor mounts from Reliable are $180 per pair.

Danny

 

[DPinkston]

I received my engine/transmission adapter 11/18. Worked on it 12 hours yesterday, installed the exhaust this morning, and drove it this afternoon, although not without mishap. It ran fine for awhile then started missing. Got it back to the house and found a fuel leak at the pump underneath #3 delivery valve. I don't think it is the delivery valve itself, rather I think it is underneath the DV holder base, the thing that is held down by 2 bolts. I have posted the problem in the 2nd gen forum and am waiting for input from the experts. It is really disappointing to be so close and be held back by something like this. It's getting close to 3 months since I started this project, so I guess a few more days won't kill me.

Danny

 

[mgoncalves]

Thanks for the progress reports, that sounds like a real neat project. I wish I had the ambition to tackle a project that big.



Matt

 

[DPinkston]

Progress has hit a brick wall. In short, gonna have to rebuild the injection pump. See 2nd gen forum for more details.

Danny

 

[DPinkston]

On the road now. Had pump rebuilt. Doing good so far, but I keep expecting something else catastrophic and expensive to happen. Grid heaters are manually operated for now. I have a computer from a '96 model and tried to wire it up for heater grid control but I think something isn't right. Kinda hard to tell working by yourself. Can't be in the cab turning on the key and under the hood with a voltmeter at the same time. At least I have a running truck again.

Danny

 

[BV]

Hey Danny that is good news - Sorry you had to rebuild the pump.



Can you wire up a test light so you can watch the light instead of the voltmeter. I have done this when voltage wasn't as important as just knowing it has something hot.



Later - Marty

 

[DPinkston]

When I was working on it the other day everyone was shopping, I was home alone. Maybe I'll take another stab at it when I have help.

I was over budget on the conversion to begin with, then having to rebuild the pump really put me over. It will take me 5 years to recoup the cost of the conversion now. That's if nothing else happens... .

Danny