Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 97 Dodge: what mods should I do?

[RodeoSI]

I just posted my ABS light problem but now to the real important question.



What mods should I do?



Here is what I have and here is what I use it for.



97 2X4 Quad Cab dually SLT Laramie. The truck has an rebuilt automatic with a transmission temp gauge and a aux fan. (What temp range should I been in towing?) The people I bought it from said it had all that could be done. I saw the paper work; $5,000 dollar repair. I hope that means it was good. Exhaust temp guage, boost gauge and Pac brake - that is disconnected. As far as I can tell nothing else. It runs strong; not much black smoke; boots goes to about 19 psi thats it. No air mods except a K&N filter.



I have a 30ft 3 horse trailer that has a 14 ft living quarters. I don't know the weight but it is usually loaded.



What should I do to get more power but stay in the manageable area for towing?

 

[burnin oil]

Timing, gauges, governor springs, 10 plate, and a free flowing exhaust or muffler in that order. Factory airbox will do fine.

You are only getting 19lbs of boost because you are hitting the factory wastegate setting on your turbo. The 10 plate will come with a boost elbow that will allow you to get higher boost levels. I think I ran around 28lbs at WOT without a load on the truck.

Dont worry about the TST website saying not to use a 10 plate with an auto. Many people do and the 10 is the most towing friendly plate there is. It also has some top end defueling to help keep EGTs in check when working the motor hard on a hill.

With these mods you are going to punish that auto if they used parts anywhere near stock. Keep an eye out for trans slipping. You can always slide the plate back some to help the transmission to keep from slipping.

 

[1 Broke Dad]

What about a #5 or #4 plate for a mostly stock daily driver? Any issues with EGT's?



Thanks.

 

[Matthug]

If you don't tow there should be no issue running whatever plate you want.

 

[RodeoSI]

Thank you for the information. Where should I set the timing at? and How about the turbo? Should I think about changing the housing or even going with a different turbo?

 

[Matthug]

Timing I'd go anywhere from 15-16 degrees. If you are not pushing much HP (300 or less) than I'd go with 16 degrees. Over 300 I'd go with 15. 5 or 15 degrees.

 

[DBraunig]

Rodeo,



Have you already corrected the KDP? I would address that first before any performance mods... . it can really ruin your day



Dave

 

[JAmos]

Mat-



Why do you say that about the timing? Is it better to decrease the timing as power rises? I thought that timing needs to increase in a slight proportion to power increases?



Jordan

 

[Matthug]

Yeah if you have head studs and fire rings! I'm basing that off of stock gasket and bolts. It doesn't sound like he's a guy that wants to get into the more serious things like replacing the head bolts and head gasket. The more power the more cylinder pressure so the less timing you want to run with the stock gasket and bolts. Less power less cylinder pressure so the more timing you can run. On a bone stock truck turning the timing to 18 won't blow the gasket. Do that on a 215 pump with a 10 plate and 370's... . POP!

 

[RodeoSI]

I apologize; KDP? This is something I have not heard. Could you explain?

 

[DBraunig]

Rodeo,



KDP = killer dowel pin... ... ... . search the forums on this topic. I would suggest correcting it 1st, then the mods.



Dave

 

[McLaughlin]

I just posted my ABS light problem but now to the real important question.



What mods should I do?



Here is what I have and here is what I use it for.



97 2X4 Quad Cab dually SLT Laramie. The truck has an rebuilt automatic with a transmission temp gauge and a aux fan. (What temp range should I been in towing?) The people I bought it from said it had all that could be done. I saw the paper work; $5,000 dollar repair. I hope that means it was good. Exhaust temp guage, boost gauge and Pac brake - that is disconnected. As far as I can tell nothing else. It runs strong; not much black smoke; boots goes to about 19 psi thats it. No air mods except a K&N filter.



I have a 30ft 3 horse trailer that has a 14 ft living quarters. I don't know the weight but it is usually loaded.



What should I do to get more power but stay in the manageable area for towing?

Burnin Oil pretty much summed it up. Sounds like you already have gauges so if they are working that should pretty much take care of that. Matthug recommended the same timing as I would have at 15 - 15. 5.



Since you already have an exhaust brake, I'd start by getting that hooked up and working. It should help save your brakes a bunch while pulling the trailer. Regarding temps, for the transmission, cooler is better and it really should go much over 190 or so. I don't pull much, mine never has been over about 170 and usually is closer to 140. My 97 typically runs cold and the engine temp rarely gets to 180 (usually only in stop and go traffic and on steep hills). Usually the engine temp runs about 150-160. The max EGT temp will depend on if the probe is installed pre or post turbo. Pre turbo EGT temps shouldn't go over 1350 for long (a couple of minutes or less from what I've read). Typically you can run pre turbo EGTs around 1200 without worry. Without a load my EGTs are vary between 600 and 1050. If your EGT probe is post turbo then the max temps should be about 300 degrees lower.



The 19 psi at the boost may be limited by the waste gate. My 97 will spool to 32+ (unloaded truck) with the stock turbo, 10 plate, and DD stage 2's (similar to the 215 injectors). My EGTs under heavy acceleration max at about 1250.



Regarding suggestions:



1) Timing and KDP (the KDP may or may not be an issue but if it starts to fall out, it can easily break things that are expensive to fix.



2) Gov springs (will improve performance at higher RPMs).



3) Fuel plate (I'm running a #10 but don't tow much, my daughter is running a #4 and tows a lot - but doesn't have gauges and I'd hesitate to make a recommendation.



4) 215 or DD stage injectors. This may be a chicken and egg recommendation, I put on an exhaust manifold and a 4 in exhaust before changing the fuel plate or injectors and didn't notice much performance improvement other than the turbo would spool up a bit quicker. I noticed a real big performance improvement when I installed the fuel plate and injectors but that may be because I already had the exhaust upgraded.



Also, just a thought but if you are going to use the PAC brake you might want to check and to see if you have 60lb valve springs. The heavier valve springs will make the exhaust brake more effective.

 

[RodeoSI]

This is the Best Place ever for information!!!! Thanks for the responses.



KDP has been done by the previous owner. My transmission temp seems to be running around 190 or little higher and this is just driving not towing yet.



I have had a little time to look into things and the Pac brake is going to need a couple of parts and have not been able to find why the exhaust temp is not working. Check all leads and connections. (still need to do some hunting)



Now all I need is to figure out where to go. I am in Carlsbad CA right now and got the travel guide but have had no luck finding anyone who can tell me where to go. I will be in Greeley, Colorado and area the last week of June. If anyone has suggestions on where to go or who to take it to that would be great. Thanks

 

[McLaughlin]

This is the Best Place ever for information!!!! Thanks for the responses.



KDP has been done by the previous owner. My transmission temp seems to be running around 190 or little higher and this is just driving not towing yet.



I have had a little time to look into things and the Pac brake is going to need a couple of parts and have not been able to find why the exhaust temp is not working. Check all leads and connections. (still need to do some hunting)



Now all I need is to figure out where to go. I am in Carlsbad CA right now and got the travel guide but have had no luck finding anyone who can tell me where to go. I will be in Greeley, Colorado and area the last week of June. If anyone has suggestions on where to go or who to take it to that would be great. Thanks

I'm guessing the 190 degree reading is after you have been driving around in stop and go traffic for a while; that reading is higher that what I've seen but my sensor is in the transmission oil pan. You might want to check and see where the transmission temp sensor is located. There are two main places. One monitors the oil temp in the hot oil line to the transmission oil cooler and the other is typically in the transmission oil pan or the side of the transmission. If the sensor is in the oil pan or the side of the transmission, 190 seems a bit high. I don't know what the typical reading is if the sensor is in the oil line but it is supposed to be somewhat higher then if the sensor is in the oil pan.



What kind of EGT guage do you have? I had a similar problem(initially my gauge would read anything but after I checked the connections it read 200 degrees low); it turned out to be a bad gauge.

 

[JAmos]

I have autometer gauges and my first egt gauge shot craps after a few months. Got a new one under warranty and no probs since.



If you're coming to greeley, then the man to see is laser bob. He builds dtt autos, adjusts timing, and many more performance items, and is an overall great guy to deal with. He's a member so you can pm him and he could have parts ready for you or whatever works out best. If you have a prob getting a pm to him I can get his phone number for you.



Jordan

 

[RodeoSI]

The transmission temp has a switch and two sensors. One reads the outgoing oil temp and the other reads the cooled temp coming back. I had the switch on the reading the outgoing temp. Now I that I know, it is running exactly in the range that was suggested on this Thread.



Laser Bob must be the guy because others have replied and said he would be the person to get a hold of. So I will do that.



I am still wondering about a housing change. The housing seems pretty small and I am wondering if I should go 14 or 16. Would a 16 be to big for pulling a heavy trailer up hills?

 

[McLaughlin]

The transmission temp has a switch and two sensors. One reads the outgoing oil temp and the other reads the cooled temp coming back. I had the switch on the reading the outgoing temp. Now I that I know, it is running exactly in the range that was suggested on this Thread.



Laser Bob must be the guy because others have replied and said he would be the person to get a hold of. So I will do that.



I am still wondering about a housing change. The housing seems pretty small and I am wondering if I should go 14 or 16. Would a 16 be to big for pulling a heavy trailer up hills?

Don't know for sure since I'm running the stock turbo but from what I understand is that if you don't have a fuel plate and/or bigger injectors then you probably don't need a bigger turbo housing. Not sure if it would provide cooler EGTs or not with the lower power levels of the stock equipment. The threads I've read indicated that until you get to 350 hp or so the turbo is adaquate (although the EGT temps do start to get higher).

 

[JAmos]

I would stay with the stock exhaust housing since you are planning on towing. Egt's on the top end can get a little hot. You might consider a intake housing and wheel upgrade from high tech turbo. This should give a mildly modified Trailer puller a good combo-bringing the egt's down and gaining some extra power. Also another option is to get new turbo. You can hand pick whatever you want then.



Jordan

 

[Matthug]

Get a PDR HX35 and pop your 12cm housing on it. The 58mm inducer should keep up to 300 HP cool towing, 350 HP it would cool but might not when towing.

 

[arthr31]

... And lets not forget it depends on how it is driven...



same engine in a marine application will have the timing into 20*. However, i don't know the difference in bolts and gasket. Anyone?



Anyway, if you pound it, expect it to eventually reduce someplace...