Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 97 Dually Cruise Crapped out

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Exhaust Parts

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission parts manual

Status
Not open for further replies.
Help needed to fix dead cc on 97 3500 with 243K on the clock... cc died year ago and took it to dealer thinking maybe clock spring; dealer said electronic module for $850, I said, "no thanks". The trouble originally started with intermittent cc switching on and off, then finally it died, don't get LED on the steering wheel when pressing on/off switch. Any ideas anyone?



BThomp
 
My 2000 24v had the same problem. I had read in another thread here that the switches get dirty and may need cleaning. I removed the switches and sprayed them out with electrical contact cleaner. The cruise now works like a dream.
 
B Workman

The first time my cc quit it was a wire in the steering shaft. second time was a vacuum leak under the battery holder. Both times the dealer wanted to replace the whole unit. I repaired it myself.









97 dully,bd triple lock converter,tyranny,exhaust brake,4 in. exhaust,all the gaguges
 
My 97 cruise control didn't work. If you have a service manual you can figure out how to troubleshoot it. In my case, the LED in the steering wheel always came on. Initially I found a vacuum leak where the vacuum hose connects under the battery holder; however that didn't fix the problem. I eventually found the problem was a hole in the side of the control servo itself. Once I replace the servo and the cable everything worked great.



Since your LED doesn't come on, I'd first check that power is getting to the switch control module.



I'd also check the stop lamp switch on the brake. The cruise control system is routed through contacts 3 and 4 on the stop lamp switch (pin 1 is the furthest from the plunger). These have been known to go bad but I'm not sure what the indications are if it fails. After looking at the manual's wiring diagrams, it looks as if the contacts between 3 and 4 on the stoplight switch are normally connected; however, the troubleshooting procedure in the brake section states they are only connected when the brake is pressed. So I really can't tell you what you should see at that point(maybe someone else on the register can) . If the connection between these two contacts had failed, then it appears the LED may never come on.



I'd leave checking the switch control module until last because it seems the most complicated. Apparently the switch control module has been known to fail in the past. According to the service manual, there are two ways to check the system. If you have a DRB scan tool and the other is to use a volt/ohm meter. The DRB process is pretty long so I won't go into it all here but the codes from MIL check are as follows:



MIL code - 12 - Battery input to PCM disconnect within last 40 key-on cycles



MIL code - 15 - No vehicle sensor signal detected during road conditions

or

MIL code - 15 - Output shaft less then 60 rpm with vehicle speed above 15mph



MIL code - 34 - open or shorted condition at speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits

or

MIL code - 34 - speed control switch input below minimum acceptable voltage

or

MIL code - 34 - speed control switch input above maximum acceptable voltage



MIL code - 56 - completion of fault code display on check engine lamp



MIL code - 77 - No power at speed control circuit



If you use a volt/ohm meter, you need to be careful when doing the check because you have to take the steering wheel apart.



YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY(S) NEGATIVE GROUND AND WAIT FOR AT LEAST TWO MINUTES OR ELSE THE AIR BAG COULD DEPLOY.



Capitalized the previous sentence since it is all caps and bolded in the service manual.



After you remove the speed control switch module from the steering wheel, you can check the switch continuity. Looking at the back you will see three pins. If you label the pins from left to right 1, 2 , and 3, you should get the following measurements:

No switches depressed - resistance between 2 and 3 should be 0

ON switch pressed - resistance between 2 and 3 should be 909 ohms +/- 9 ohms

Resume/accel pressed - resistance between 2 and 3 should be 15400 ohms +/-154 ohms

Set/Coast pressed - resistance between 2 and 3 should be 6650 ohms +/- 66 ohms
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top