Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) '97 new lift pump, now it won't run?

[illflem]

I was wrong, had the number deep in the recesses of my computer. Problem is I didn't write down if they were Dodge or Cummins numbers.

heater element upper quad ring 3834185-s

heater strainer kit 3845400-s

heater element 3907766-s $35. 18

cable harness 3843722-s $49. 39



It sounds like you need the cable harness.



If you want to bypass the heater connect the input line to the heater directly to the lift pump. It may require additional hose and a bit of fiddleing around.

 

[bmoeller]

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/96specs.html



Just scroll down to the parts list. The heater parts are listed also.

 

[BMorgan]

Guys thanks for the part numbers they should help me a bunch.



Illflem- I'm wondering about the cable harness. Is it the harness the creates a seal so that fuel doesn't leak and air doesn't enter? Or is it the element itself that is sealed? In other words if the harness is unpluged will the element leak (assuming there was no leak prior to unplugging)?



Also, where on the lift pump would the inlet line from the pre-filter/heater connect in the bypassing process? Sorry for all the questions it's just that this is my first diesel and I really don't know much about them. I really do appreciate the guidance. Thanks.

 

[illflem]

It's the seal that the wires go though that leaks and needs replacing. To bypass the filter just jump the two hoses to it together. Like I said it may take a little more hose to go back to where you can make an easy connection.

I have never bypassed the heater so can't tell you exactly what it involves but several folks here have talked about bypassing theirs and haven't complained of any difficulty.

 

[Andy Redmond]

You need the heater element.



Remove the bowl (17mm) on the bowl's sealing surface you will find a gasket, inside the bowl is a "speednut" and the filter/screen. Remove and wipe clean.



Find you metric hex wrenches the ones that are molded to a 3/8 drive socket. I believe its a 8mm.



In the bottom center of the heater grid is a shoulder bolt with that the hex will slide into.



Remove it, it has the quad o-ring on the top which contacts the bowl housing which is retained to the engine block with the same capscrews that hold the lift pump to the block.



This heater is very delicate, snug the unit back up, but don't get western and crack it.



I find them almost finger tight quite often, I suspect this upper "quad -o-ring" is a source of an air leak in our fuel systems.



On Cummins parts ordering, always provide the CPL and engine serial number.



The more standard setup for Cummins is to have the heater stacked on top of the spin on fuel filter. Trucks that use a saddle tank, usually have a water seperator/fuel strainer etc. back "tankward".



Good luck

Andy

 

[HoleshotHolset]

While we're on the subject of fuel heaters....

What 'tells' the heater to stop operating?



Matt

 

[illflem]

It has an internal thermostat, set to go on at 40° and off at 70°

 

[BMorgan]

Guys the truck is back on the road again. I can't thank everyone enough for guiding me through this experience.



As it turns out it was the element that was the culprit. Evidently there was a crack in the element housing where the harness plugs in which allowed air to be sucked into the system. I must have created the problem during the lift pump installation since it didn't leak previously. I'm just not sure how I did that since the pre-filter/heater stayed together as a unit. I did have to unplug the harness at the upper end but not at the element. Coincidence maybe? Anyway, the important thing is that the truck is running again and I gained valuable experience troubleshooting my very first diesel. I have to say that this is the only time the truck has been in a no start/run situation. I guess I got a little spoiled by only having to do the regular maintenance things such as oil&filter, fuel filter, and valve adjustment (which is a good thing).



Thanks again for all the help and for giving me a bit more confidence when it comes to working on a diesel (I've always owned gassers).

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Bill Said: "It has an internal thermostat, set to go on at 40° and off at 70°"



I'm assuming this is fuel temp?



There was talk in the past about how hot #2 might benefit the HP guys a little bit...



Obviously I wouldn't want to make the OEM heater work overtime... ... but it's a start.



Matt