Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 97 stalls shortly after startup if not started every 24hrs.

[mmayron]

Recently my truck has been stalling after running for about 45-60 seconds if I let it sit for more then a day w/o a starting it. It's a 97 4x4 2500 I bought about 6 months ago. The previous owner lived in montana (im in SoCal) and had installed the banks stinger (plus i think) kit. It ran fine when I first got it. The only thing I changed was I slid the plate and spun that star. Maybe 1 month after I started to notice this problem. It'll start again after it stalls if I crank it for 15 - 20 seconds (normaly it starts in 1-2). Once it starts again it runs great. Did sliding that plate too far forward cause this or do I just need to drive my CTD more

 

[illflem]

Your rubber return fuel line has probably deteriorated and is allowing air in the system. If you do a search for return line you will find much info.

 

[Midnight]

Illfilem is correct, is your return line. It can get a pin hole in it and let in air thus loosing it's prime. When they go bad they don't always leak fuel.

 

[mmayron]

Sorry if this is a dumb qustions but where is the hose I'd need to replace and do I just use regular fuel injector hose to replace it? Happen to know the size off hand?



Thanks for all the input.

 

[kaffine krazed]

It's a 5/16 inch line. It is difficult to see. Follow the line coming off the engine side of the injection pump just behind the pump it goes to a rubber hose that is the hose you want to replace. The other end is on top of the bell housing. I have yet to find an easy way to replace that line.

 

[illflem]

I have never seen the hose while it's in place, all work has to be done by feel. I come in from the top after removing the entire fuel filter housing from the block and laying on top of the engine. Both of OEM clamps take a different size wrench. If the clamps are a hassle I just cut them off.

Make sure you get 5/16" diesel rated hose, marine grade if you can find it. Two feet is always more than enough to reroute the new hose to a cooler location so it doesn't fall apart again.

It is by far my least favorite job on these trucks and now that I found a mechanic that will do it for $60 I'll never do one again.

 

[wcjp]

The Coast Guard approved marine diesel hose is a big improvement over the stock hose. Replace the fuel supply and return at the same time. Also, I had to remove the starter to gain access from underneath. This is a good time to install LarryB's contact upgrade. Once the starter is out, the contact upgrade is only an extra 5 minutes.

 

[mmayron]

hmmm...



I'm only five and a half feet tall, do you think I have the arm span to even get at it from the top? The bottem might be a possibility, my friend ownes a shop and lift but I'd rather do it at home incase it take longer then expected.



Does anyone sell the good hose online? I don't think I'd find any around here easily.



I guess I should replace the fuel filter while all this is out, right? How am I suppose to get this thing started after I get through? Any pump priming secrets or tips for me?



Thanks alot everyone for everything. I havn't really worked on diesels much before but between my gasser knowledge and this board I think I could handle this myself.



Big thanks to bill aswell. Of the few post I've made before and since I've bought my dodge I think bill's answered every single one. I'm sure i'm not the only one either



-Mike

 

[wcjp]

I forgot to mention the fuel preheater to liftpump hose. After all the hassle of replacing the fuel supply/return line it was the liftpump hose that was bad.

 

[illflem]

I get mine here http://www.spokanehose.com/

Not online but with an 800 number and credit card it's yours. You might want to order clamps from them also, it's hard to find good ones locally.