Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 97 throttle linkage

[jayhawktrailers.com]

Does any one offer an improved throttle linkage for the 97 12 valve. Tired of fixing mine on the side of the road. Getting so good at the bailing wire trick I drove it home 425 miles ( towing of course ) and still going. maybe this is the fix. I'll reweld the old one and carry a spare from now on.

 

[gitchesum]

Wish I could help ya, but if it's the rod itself breaking in half, I'm not aware of anyone making a heavier unit. I had mine break once. Luckily it was only the ends of the threads that broke and I was able to fix it on the side of the road with a pair of pliers.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Are you covered by the recall?http://dodgeram. info/tsb/recalls/B15.htm

 

[RHARVEY]

Mine was...



Rick

 

[gitchesum]

The recall only replaces the ends, they won't replace the entire rod. At least they wouldn't replace it on mine.

 

[Big Best]

i put apiece of angle iron on my rod . no more breakage problems.

Bob.

 

[Andy Redmond]

The problem with breakage is often a tech that doesn't adjust the linkage properly after a "recall" tsb etc.



It can be adjusted when full throttle is achieved that it moves all linkages sufficiently to allow for full throttle (pump lever movement) without binding or forcing it WOT. The secret is to assure that the rod isn't trying to push past wot throttle. Once your 5" of throttle travel is met (wot = full accelerator pedal travel), re-ck. the tps voltage on an auto trans. , you might have to lengthen or shorten the rod a tick to get it just right. 1 volt is a good target.



It helps to have an assistant to work the accelerator for you or for whoever the "adjuster" is.



Also the other problem I see is that the pump lever that the firewall ball stud and connector attach to has many positions as to where the rear stud is positioned (high to low). Several of these will work, but may require some linkage adjustment. Obviously it is in the wrong spot binding can occur.



I've changed several broken rods and all were attributed to poor linkage adjustment (read someone that didn't know their stuff had jacked with it)! FWIW no one has complained about the threaded rod breaking again, so I think we got it right.



Again its not complex, just fussy work!



Good luck and my . 02!



Andy

 

[Boomer II]

You still need to adjust mine Andy, holler when you get those machine parts.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Ok, Michael. Talk to ya soon!

 

[jayhawktrailers.com]

Thanks guys. yeah I've had some one mess with this truck all to much. It is our main truck for hauling in stacks of trailers for or dealership. I got it with 130K on it. It had the linkage replaced. before i got it and ever since I'm going to weld another piece on this one for now. The real bad thing is that it was taken to have the injecton service to make sure that we were trouble free up to 300k or so. My boss said it was ok to turn it up a little. Now it can't keep the egt's down while towing. it has a straight pipe and a banks big head exhaust housing. The best bang for the buck was the NV 5600. We used to loose a 5 spd every 60,000 or less The 6spd has bee in there for about 80k now. It has 254k now. Sorry for the long post thanks for the help

 

[BBritt]

I have a 94 and have done all the recalls on this since new. I have never had any rod break... but I have continuously (for the past 5 years or so) had a big problem with the ball joint on the end of the new (replacement) cable linkage.



The plastic revieving connector keeps comming off the ball joint leaving me with the accellerator pedal on the floor and engine at idle. I happens mostly when I use the cruise control and tap the brake to release the cruise... . somehow it makes the ball joint end jump off the ball joint.



I checked with Dodge not long ago and asked if there were any additional recalls or updated parts and I had the latest.



Any ideas on how to fix this would be appreciated.



Thanks...

 

[zack_76401]

If its covered by dodge I wouldnt do it. They did mine when it was in the shop for some other warranty crap and it has never been the same... ... . kinda like it wont go as far as it use too... hard to describe but my truck has never been the same after they did that recall.....

 

[Andy Redmond]

Zack: (Britt see below)



They likely re-installed the "dog-leg" shapped linkage opposite of its original position or have mis-adjusted something... maybe got the linkage bushings in a bind (TPS end if auto trans) the bellcrank levers where the throttle cable, cruise cable, autotrans kick down cable etc. attach on the front end of the pump.



Have an assistant work the throttle for you, observe the travel of each moving part. Compare to the adj. listed in the FSM.



Britt:



The throttle cable packages should come with a new "improved" bell-crank lever that should allow for a secure "snap" fit.



I'm betting the tech was lazy and reused your bell-crank lever. If it is the updated part (does it look newer than other linkages?)



If it was replaced the stud on the lever is undersized, your cable is mis-routed etc. In a pinch, I bet some "safety" or fine "floral" wire could be wrapped to improve the snap fit or to make a loop so it doesn't completely escape.



Good luck

 

[GAmes]

Originally posted by BBritt

I have a 94 and have done all the recalls on this since new. I have never had any rod break... but I have continuously (for the past 5 years or so) had a big problem with the ball joint on the end of the new (replacement) cable linkage.



The plastic revieving connector keeps comming off the ball joint leaving me with the accellerator pedal on the floor and engine at idle. I happens mostly when I use the cruise control and tap the brake to release the cruise... . somehow it makes the ball joint end jump off the ball joint.



I checked with Dodge not long ago and asked if there were any additional recalls or updated parts and I had the latest.



Any ideas on how to fix this would be appreciated.



Thanks...

When I bought my new cable it came with a new bellcrank (the ball fitting) and the instructions for replacement. My connector hasn't popped off the new ball so apparantly the old one was worn enough to cause the problem.



I've also had three throttle rods break, every time with an RV in tow. Now that I've had the recall done I pull the rod off every 20,000 or so, then clean and lube the sockets.

 

[Bob4x4]

BBrit,check to see if the ball is attatched with a nut. If not it was not changed. The original ball stud is only peened in place. The offset is slightly diierent for the new style cable.



Bob

 

[BBritt]

Thanks for all the information. I picked up a new cable from Dodge (this must make about the 3rd time I done this over the past 5 years) and this cable kit includes a new bellcrank. I don't think the bellcrank (with ball joint) came with the previous cable purchases. So, I'm going to install the new cable AND BELLCRANK/BALL this time and see if it will stay connected.



I played around with the old one this morning and its strange that the old ball and cable joint (not changed yet) has a fairly snug fit, yet when I simulated a quick release of the cruise control by holding near full throttle with my hand and releasing the bellcrank, the cable end will occasionally jump off the ball.



Hopefully, the new one will solve my problem. I will give a follow-up post later and let everyone know if this replacement solves my problem.



Thanks again for everyone's help.



Bruce

 

[Andy Redmond]

Did you get the "CANZ9700" pkg. ? It comes with linkage ends, ball studs in addition to the cable and bell-crank and is usually less expensive. .



Good luck

Andy

 

[BBritt]

My package only came with the cable and the bellcrank. Having it installed this week and will let everyone know if the problem with the cruise control (cable end jumping off) is fixed or not.



Thanks

Bruce

 

[BBritt]

Just a followup to let everyone know, installing the new bellcrank and the cable with new end, appears to have solved my problem. The cable end no longer jumps off the ball when I dissengage the cruise control by tapping the brake pedal.



Thanks,

Bruce

 

[Sled Puller]

Originally posted by stude

. The best bang for the buck was the NV 5600. We used to loose a 5 spd every 60,000 or less The 6spd has bee in there for about 80k now.

I'm curious to know what broke in the 4500 that often?