2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 97' Y-type steering to T-type with dual stabilizer kit installed!

[WDimig]

well after reading every post there was on this subject i finally decided to fix my steering. at first i put a PSC 3 turn steering box on becuase my old steering box was a 4 turn, and it was leaking at the pitman arm shaft seal. i also did the 3rd. gen. track bar, and a DSS steering stabilizer. that made a good improvement, but it wasn't the best because i knew i had some worn tie rods. soo i ordered all the tie rods from rock auto, except the tie rod at the pitman arm connection, i got that from my local napa because i couldn't find it on rock auto. i ordered a Skyjacker dual steering stabilizer kit from Summit racing, i was able to get all the parts within 3 days. here's what i ordered and from where... .

Rock Auto -

ES2012S - smaller sleeve at pitman tie rod connection

ES3498S - larger sleeve that connects drivers side tie rod to pass. side bar

ES3496 - drivers side tie rod

DS1456 - long bar and tie rod, connects to sleeve and drivers side tie rod

DS1459 - drag link that connects to pitman arm tie rod sleeve



NAPA auto -

NCP2693148 - pitman tie rod assy that will fit the taper of a stock 97' pitman arm.



Summit racing -

SJA-7218/ - Skyjacker dual steering damper kit. this kit is listed for a 98-99 dodge 2500-3500, since that year used the T-sytle steering, all you need to do is make sure you order the right kit, the 7218 kit work with a stock Dana 60 front axle with a axle tube width of 3. 16" while the 7270 kit works with the military Dana 60 axles with a 3. 75" tube diameter. all you need to do is crawl under the truck a measure the smallest part of the axle tube and see what you axle is. my axle was not a military axle, the only difference in the two kits is the axle u bolts, and they would have been wrong if i had ordered the 7270 kit vs. the 7218 kit. soo check your axles!! once i got the kit, i checked to make sure that the ubolts were right, and they fit perfectly around the axle!!



i wasn't able to get any pics while i did the install, but i did take some pics of the steup once it is all done. here they are.



Front view

passenger side tie rod and drag link connection

Skyjacker steering stabilizer axle bracket

Pass. side again, good shot of how much clearance there is between the tie rod and the rim

stock pitman arm & new tie rod connection

large adjusting sleeve(note orientation of sleeve clamps for clearance of stabilizer and front diff. cover)

drivers side tire rod connection, again good clearance between tie rod and rim

pic of clearance between long tie rod bar, and front diff. cover(this is with the wheels pointing straight)

pic of clearance between pitman arm and 3rd. gen track bar

finally a truck that steers like a sports car! (almost... )



feel free to pm me guys if you have any questions about the setup! I hope this writeup helps eveybody have a truck that steers like it is supposed to!

 

[Fishin Guide]

Looks good and good info on the parts sourcing!



Dave

 

[Dave M]

I have a 97 3500 4x4 and was wondering if these parts would fit mine. My steering is great right now with all the stuff I've done to it. I'm waiting for any wear on the front end parts and then I'll replace it with the "T" setup.



I've been considering doing this for some time now. I assume you don't have to drill out the steering knuckle like some of these front end replacements require. Would you say there is enough clearance between parts to not be a concern? It looks kinda close at the track bar but even my setup has some close spots. I have the 3rd gen SS adj TB and DSS.

 

[WDimig]

Dave M - eveything listed above will work on your truck if you have stock pitman arm, no need to drill anything out. as far as the clearance, i checked the clearance with the wheels at full lock both ways, and there was about a 1/16th of an inch between the front diff cover, and the long tie rod bar. i wouldn't do this, but if you were really concerned about clearance, i suppose you could grind the bar down about a 1/8th of an inch length wise the part that could possibly touch the diff. cover. the only problem that i have run into is that the pitman arm tie rod, and the drag link bar are bottomed out in the adjuster sleeve, and my steering wheel is not staight like it is supposed to be, im going to take the pitman arm tie rod off, and cut about 1-1&1/2" off of the tie rod, and that should allow the right adjustment of the steering wheel. i still need to get an alignment done, there is a slight pull to the right, other than that the steering i awsome. ask away if anybody else has any other questions.



wes

 

[WDaniels]

If you don't mind me asking, how much did it all cost and how long did it take?

Thanks,

WD

 

[WDimig]

cost & time

Wdaniels - the stabilizer kit from summit was $135 shipped, all the parts from rock auto were $355 shipped, and the tie rod i got from napa was $60. so a grand total of about $550 to replace all your steering tie rods, and have a good looking, and functional steering damper kit. time to install about 2- 3 hours depending on skill level, and ease of parts coming off the vehicle. the first thing i did was put the front end on jack stands, and removed the front tires. that allowed me to be able to beat out the old tie rod, which were being stubborn, my steering was pretty bad, bad enough to say that the pass side tie rod was just spinning when i tried to remove the nut with a air impact. i had to wede a pair of pliers inbetween the knuckle, and tie rod body, and it finally came off. i got all the parts installed, and roughly eyeballed the toe, then i put the truck on the ground, and meaured the tires, and for some reason i didnt have to adjust the sleeve! i would definately do this repair again if i had the choice. hope this info helps guys.



wes

 

[Hammer]

Hmm...

Looks like mine now. Now get busy with the paint there Wes,new parts need to be all shiney. Now all I need to do is get one of those fancy 3 turn boxes... . andy

 

[WDaniels]

Thanks

WD

 

[dseabaugh]

My question is what part number 3 turn box did you use. My search showed 2 different boxes. Have a web link?

 

[Dave M]

My question is what part number 3 turn box did you use. My search showed 2 different boxes. Have a web link?

I used PSC SG-841M (3 turn light valving). On PSC site they don't list it under Dodge here... all they show is 2 pumps for 1st gen Dodges:



Dodge Power Steering Gears : PSC Motorsports, Off-Road Steering Experts



I searched for 841 on PSC and found it listed for GM:



Search Results : PSC Motorsports, Off-Road Steering Experts



I don't know why they don't list it for Dodge. Better give PSC a call. They do list a 2nd gen Dodge Power cylinder assist for $1000+ and I have heard they are better than the OEM style 841.



Dave

 

[Pavemen]

Why did you install a dual stabilizer (or any stabilizer for that matter)? Did you try driving it without the stabilizers installed?

the T setup works so much better than the Y version and if you balanced your tires, got an alignment and had replaced/upgraded all the other parts you mentioned you should not need a stabilizer.

Just asking, not bagging on you at all.

 

[wlowe]

WDimig, do you have any clearance problems between the wheels and tie rod ends at full lock?