Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) '98 12 valve "53" block

[GAmes]

I looked at an engine yesterday. The price was right and we were about to load it into my truck when I happened to spot the dreaded 53 cast into the block. After searching numerous threads I am on the fence on whether to gamble on this engine. One post said that the only 53 cracks he knew of were on 24 valve engines. Another said that there were two plants making 53 blocks and only one had defective blocks. Still another said that a Cummins rep stated less than 1% of 53 blocks failed. On the other hand there seems to be a high percentage of failures among the members who tow regularly. That would be me.



If swapping engines was as easy as it is in my '67 Chev pickup it would be a no brainer. I'm just not sure if I want to gamble and possibly having to swap engines twice in the Dodge. FWIW, the seller says that the engine only has 130k on it. He dropped the price to $1200 after I spotted the 53 casting. It comes with almost everything except the IP.



Am I missing anything and am I just paranoid?

 

[Newt]

There are repairs for it.

Cummins 53 Crack Repair Reinforcement

Newt

 

[GAmes]

There are repairs for it.



Cummins 53 Crack Repair Reinforcement



Newt

I am aware of the repair. However, the repair costs more than the engine, and does not always work.

 

[GaryOwen]

Appears from this thread no problems with a 12-valve 53 block. Good luck on installation.





https://www.turbodieselregister.com.../204631-1994-1998-12-valve-any-53-blocks.html

 

[HBarlow]

Keep looking Gary. That's not the only Cummins engine available. The Lock Stitch and other repairs I've heard of don't work. TDR member EricBu12 wrote up an excellent description of his troubles two or three years ago. He carefully detailed his efforts to perform the Lock Stitch repair with good photos he posted here. His repair failed very quickly.

 

[jgillott]

After having the pleasure of working on several cracked 53's, I would highly recommend looking for another replacement engine. It is simply not worth the risk after going trough the work for an engine replacement.

 

[GAmes]

After having the pleasure of working on several cracked 53's, I would highly recommend looking for another replacement engine. It is simply not worth the risk after going trough the work for an engine replacement.

I am pretty much in agreement with you. What is your opinion of attempting an in-frame rings and bearings replacement with a valve job? Is it worth my time to pull the head to assess how much cylinder wear is present? When I replaced a leaky head gasket at 190k there were still honing marks on the cylinder walls. I am not so naive that the walls are not worn, but I have no idea how much they will normally wear in 800k.

 

[rrl989]

******************

 

[jgillott]

I am pretty much in agreement with you. What is your opinion of attempting an in-frame rings and bearings replacement with a valve job? Is it worth my time to pull the head to assess how much cylinder wear is present? When I replaced a leaky head gasket at 190k there were still honing marks on the cylinder walls. I am not so naive that the walls are not worn, but I have no idea how much they will normally wear in 800k.

I haven't been following the threads leading up to this one as far as what your engine is doing that is leading to the rebuild. But, I'm guessing that you either have excessive blowby or you are just burning excessive amounts of oil. If you are not 100% sure that you have a bottom end issue, I would certainly open things up first to see what you may be dealing with. There is no real extra work in pulling the head first, other than putting the head back on to pull the engine, that you wouldn't need to do anyway in the process.



If you end up needing to do anything with the bottom end, there is no sense in trying to do anything in-frame. It really isn't that hard in the whole scheme of things to pull it as long as you have good heavy equipment. It's much easier to pull with the radiator, core support, bumper etc. removed. I would also drop the trans before you start instead of trying to pull it as one unit.



I think that you will be pleasantly surprised at the condition of the bottom end, even at 800K. I'm not saying that there will be no evidence of wear, but it sure will not be what you would expect with that many miles. We did a head gasket on a 1st gen a while back that I believe had something over 600K on it. If I had pictures of the cylinder walls, tops of pistons, etc. , you would have guessed the mileage at closer to 50K. The design of this engine simply doesn't excessively wear those parts, even at that mileage. I'd be shocked if after you send the pieces out to the machine shop, that it wouldn't come back close enough to spec that your rebuild couldn't be done with just the typical bearings, seals, gaskets, valve job, etc.

 

[budnate]

Gary pop the head off your motor take a look at things then make a decision on what way to go.



there has to be a decent used 12v around somewhere? or did anyone around here? buy any of those new Motors off ebay last year and may not need it now?? I done recall anyone posting they bought one



I was real close to buying one of those new ebay motors and stashing it.



peace, B.

 

[HBarlow]

Rebuilding your own might turn out to be wiser and cheaper than buying a non-running engine from someone who claims it only has xxx,xxx miles. An unknown replacement engine could turn out to have more wear than you were told or have been damaged by moisture entry while sitting around for years.

I assume you'd want to bore your block and replace pistons, rings, bearings, seals, and do a valve job. What would that cost?

 

[jgillott]

Rebuilding your own might turn out to be wiser and cheaper than buying a non-running engine from someone who claims it only has xxx,xxx miles. An unknown replacement engine could turn out to have more wear than you were told or have been damaged by moisture entry while sitting around for years.



I assume you'd want to bore your block and replace pistons, rings, bearings, seals, and do a valve job. What would that cost?

Not counting machine shop and head work, you are probably looking at $750-$1000 in pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, etc. depending on where you source the parts. There are several online companies that sell rebuild kits slightly less than that, but I would be inclined to use a local Cummins dealer for those parts. They would be a little more expensive, but at least you know what you are getting. The Cummins dealer that I use locally, comes darn close to internet pricing when it is all said and done and I leave with the correct part every time.



It's definately going to be more that the $1200 used engine, but like you, I don't necessarily trust the reliabilty of that used engine.

 

[GAmes]

Thanks for the replies. I am going to pull the head and see what I have. After replacing the oil pan gasket recently I am convinced that it would be less work to replace the rings and rod bearings with the engine in the truck than to pull it. The worst that can happen is I lose a few hours pulling the head needlessly.

 

[HBarlow]

Not counting machine shop and head work, you are probably looking at $750-$1000 in pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, etc. depending on where you source the parts. There are several online companies that sell rebuild kits slightly less than that, but I would be inclined to use a local Cummins dealer for those parts. They would be a little more expensive, but at least you know what you are getting. The Cummins dealer that I use locally, comes darn close to internet pricing when it is all said and done and I leave with the correct part every time.

It's definately going to be more that the $1200 used engine, but like you, I don't necessarily trust the reliabilty of that used engine.

I like your figures. If I were Gary and could do the work myself as Gary can I'd follow your suggestion.

Myself, I couldn't do a rebuild so would buy and install a Cummins reman engine.

Cheap parts are often a set up for disappointment and added expense.

 

[Hammer]

As I had already stated in the post that was linked here... .



The "53" block on a 12v is a completely different casting and part number and does not have the cracking issues that the newer 24v "53" block has. One of the main reasons for the 24v 53 blocks early demise had to do with material being removed along the structural part of the pan rail to allow for a quicker warming engine for emissions purposes.

 

[GAmes]

Hammer, your post encouraged me to do a little more research. Jim Anderson agrees with you. Today I'm driving back down to SA and picking up the engine. Worse case scenario, it cracks but I have my old engine available for rebuild.

 

[Dieseldemon]

I have had 53 block in my 98 for 215000 miles and have worked on many of them in the 12v and have never seen a 53 12v crack in that area.

 

[pwerwagn]

Hammer, your post encouraged me to do a little more research. Jim Anderson agrees with you. Today I'm driving back down to SA and picking up the engine. Worse case scenario, it cracks but I have my old engine available for rebuild.

I agree with Andy. Also, I have never heard of or seen a 12V 53 block crack. I had one in my 98 with lots of trouble free, abusive high hp miles... and its still chugging along 2 owners later.

 

[torqmonster]

Before I bought my 98 12v when I inspected it I noticed it had the 53, it gave me a bad feeling and I walked and researched it. After a lot of research I went back and bought the truck. I wouldn't be afraid to buy a 12v with one at all.

 

[Hammer]

Mine now has 250k on it with not one issue at all.



If you ever get to look at the 24v "53" block from the oil pan rail up into the motor you can clearly see how much of the pan rail was removed to aid in faster warm ups. You also have to remember that these block are a HUGE problem in the toter homes that were built during the same time frame.