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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 98 12 valve?

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Hey guys, I've never been on this forum before because I own an 03' cummins, I'm selling it and buying a 12 valve... . you guys probably won't think I'm crazy like everyone else :-laf . I've found a 98 4x4 5 spd, dually extended cab with approx. 173k miles on it. I'd like to know what to look for in this truck, such as dead give aways that the truck is ****, I'll be able to tell for the most part, but I don't have experience with these trucks other than my buddies that has been bombed for all of it's 402k mile life, it still runs like a top. My truck is still in good shape but I hate electronics more than anything except rust and really want a mechanical diesel. The truck is very clean as well, thanks a lot guys in advance.



Carter
 
At the top of the AFC assembly, on the passenger/front side, there is a break-off screw that you need to break to get into the mechanics to change the fuel plate and such. If it is broken off or replaced with anything else then the truck has been bombed.
 
Kind of obvious, but I would look for an oil leak or crack on the front gear case a la KDP... That's all I can think of. They're pretty bullet proof.
 
Congrats! good move, IMHO.

Check the front-end out too, especially the trac bar. They wear badly on the 2nd gen trucks and cause a lot of wander in the steering. Listen to how long the starter has spin too, it should crank a few times and fire up. I've owned my '98 for 2 yrs and I'm on my third starter :(

You'll like the 12valve, it's a lot of fun...
 
thanks for the replies, I'm wondering what fuel mileage I might see out of a dually 4x4 5 spd, I am going to bump the fuel just a little to make it run better but not enough to make it run really hot, for the most part I drive my 03 pretty conservatively, but then again you have to peg it wide open sometimes. KEEP THE REPLIES COMING, I'll take all that I can get, I want to hear the good and the bad.
 
if you hate rust you better take a real close look at the bottom of the driver and passenger doors both 12v's i had were rusted there and it is a common problem with 2nd gens because the drain holes don't line up
 
if you hate rust you better take a real close look at the bottom of the driver and passenger doors both 12v's i had were rusted there and it is a common problem with 2nd gens because the drain holes don't line up



Or just move to Las Vegas where even a 50 year old dodge dosen't have any rust.
 
Check for the dreaded "53" block. If it has one make sure that it isn't cracked. There are lots of folks in the TDR that run the 53's with no problem, but if I was the one buying it, I would pass on the deal. Do a search and you will find a vast array of information with regard to what to look for and the model years that it was most commonly found in.
 
I dont think the 53 block is an issue on 12V's. I have one in my 12V, never had a problem.

Definitley look for the KDP problem. If the gear case is bare alum, then it has probably already hapend and hopefully fixed right.

Make sure it has 5th gear (obviously. . ).

The break off screw in the AFC cover as mentioned is a good place to look.

Exhaust manifolds on those trucks shrink, and can cause problems (I. E, head crack) if they shrink to much. Look and make sure the forward most studs are somewhat straight. If its bent a ton, then you will probably have to invest in a new exhaust manifold.



--Jeff
 
Congrats! good move, IMHO.



Check the front-end out too, especially the trac bar. They wear badly on the 2nd gen trucks and cause a lot of wander in the steering. Listen to how long the starter has spin too, it should crank a few times and fire up. I've owned my '98 for 2 yrs and I'm on my third starter



Third starter? I have a 95 with 241K and a 98 with 224K and all I have done to either starter is the contacts and a little cleaning. Even the alternator on the 98 is OE.
 
Hey guys, I've never been on this forum before because I own an 03' cummins, I'm selling it and buying a 12 valve... . you guys probably won't think I'm crazy like everyone else :-laf . I've found a 98 4x4 5 spd, dually extended cab with approx. 173k miles on it. I'd like to know what to look for in this truck, such as dead give aways that the truck is ****, I'll be able to tell for the most part, but I don't have experience with these trucks other than my buddies that has been bombed for all of it's 402k mile life, it still runs like a top. My truck is still in good shape but I hate electronics more than anything except rust and really want a mechanical diesel. The truck is very clean as well, thanks a lot guys in advance.



Carter



The 2003 HOs are the best of the new ones IMO. I had one lined up to replace my 95 until my buddy let it get stolen recently. Now he is getting an 07. 5.

It is fun to blow away those late model Fords and Chevys with those old smokers though.

My wife called me yesterday to tell me she blew away a Duramax on Saluda mtn heading for Asheville.

The guy made the mistake of passing her showing smoke. She passed him back without smoke on B20! Good luck with the 98. Just make sure the KDP is fixed!!!
 
You'll love the truck... I have had mine since new and have 494,000 miles on it. I did go to the sealed roller bearing in the flywheel and have had great service out of that. Otherwise it is stock and runs like a champ.
 
Congrats! good move, IMHO.



Check the front-end out too, especially the trac bar. They wear badly on the 2nd gen trucks and cause a lot of wander in the steering. Listen to how long the starter has spin too, it should crank a few times and fire up. I've owned my '98 for 2 yrs and I'm on my third starter



Third starter? I have a 95 with 241K and a 98 with 224K and all I have done to either starter is the contacts and a little cleaning. Even the alternator on the 98 is OE.



I had my brushes go out on my '96 around 250k and was on my third set of contacts(counting the originals), but I start my truck a lot more than most. It appeared to be the orginal starter. I've had the truck since '99 at 87k miles.



Look for mud under the body, on the frame, crossmember. If its been in the mud or on rough roads, you'll likely have some leaks from the front axle, t-case, etc. They're relatively minor problems if you're handy with tools. Check the ball joints, tie rods, and bearings for wear. These are things that can be replaced after buying it, but know you'll have to spend $1000+ in parts after you buy it might give you a bargaining chip with the seller.



These aren't reasons NOT to buy the truck- just things to know when looking to know whether the price is right, and the seller is honest. Once you get it, if the KDP isn't fixed, take care of it. My dad's went out on his '98 12V and busted the timing gear case. Its far easier to prevent than fix.
 
Congrats! good move, IMHO.



Check the front-end out too, especially the trac bar. They wear badly on the 2nd gen trucks and cause a lot of wander in the steering. Listen to how long the starter has spin too, it should crank a few times and fire up. I've owned my '98 for 2 yrs and I'm on my third starter



Third starter? I have a 95 with 241K and a 98 with 224K and all I have done to either starter is the contacts and a little cleaning. Even the alternator on the 98 is OE.



Ditto, my 98 12 v'r is bombed quite a bit but still has all of it's oem (non bomber stuff):D

As for mileage the diff gears will have a large effect on mpg. I had 3. 54s and got a respectable 16 mpg while driving a constant 65 mph with a large 11' cab over camper. I moved to 4. 10 gears and regularly tow 19,000 pounds. The fuel mileage has gone down some but is still respectable for the load and large frontal area. My only problem is the egts and I'm working on that. Do I hear more bombing:-laf
 
My second starter was a cheapo from NAPA. I think the poor quality and salt did it in... The third starter is now a denso, seems a bit better. Salt still a problem- i can see on the housing where the salt etched and settled in, no kidding :eek:.
 
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