Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 98 12V fuel filter

[larryj]

I would like to change the canister type fuel filter housing on 98 12V, For the fuel filter adapter housing off of A 94 to 96 with the screw on filter. would this be a direct bolt on filter adaptor & lines. If not direct what parts would it make change over.

 

[DPashko]

its a direct change over. I have changed mine over. I believe to buy one from cummins is about $145, but i have seen lots on ebay in the past for cheap!

 

[chuckwilson]

Check on GENO'S Garage they have them there called Prime Loc.

 

[dd76522]

why would you want to go back to the spin on filter unless it was to use a prime loc or something? i know my 98 is very easy to change the filter but my 96 is a pita! but the 96 filter is way cheaper but it's worth the extra money for it to be easier for me

 

[CWeaver]

How do you reach the filter on the 96' ?

I tried this weekend but couldn't get my hand on it? What's the trick? lie accross the engine maybe?

 

[BGuilty]

turn the wheel all the way to the left put your left foot on hte bumper and reach down and over to the passenger side of the brake booster and dont forget to unplug the wif sensor

 

[Geno's Garage]

The Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation is a great system. I understand why you would want to get rid of fuel filter canister that drops from the bottom of the mounting bracket. As Chuck Wilson mentioned we do have these in stock.



Scott

 

[Joe G.]

How do you reach the filter on the 96' ?
I tried this weekend but couldn't get my hand on it? What's the trick? lie accross the engine maybe?

I'm not sure if this will work with 4 wheel ABS. I have RWAL. Remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the brake booster. Lean the master cylinder toward the fender. There is enough flex in the brake lines to do this without any danger of damage. That will give you enough room to reach the bottom of the fuel filer. Disconnect the WIF sensor. Get a large screwdriver that you don't mind pounding on to loosen the fuel filter. Apply the end of the screwdriver to the top rim of the fuel filter from above. Use it like a chisel with a big hammer to unscrew the fuel filter a little. Then you can remove it from below with your hands. The fuel filter has to go down and forward to get it clear of the wires and hoses so you can lift it out. I can remove mine in a less time than it took to type this.

 

[chuckwilson]

Hey Scott why would anybody want to spend that much time changing fuel filters!!!! I like my Prime-Loc assy. !!!!!!

 

[Joe G.]

Replacing the fuel filter is easy once you learn how to do it. The Prime-Loc is in the way big time if you want to do any work in that area.

 

[JGranberry]

The filter is a cake walk even stock, once you get a long frog-sticker(slotted screwdriver) and a nice dead blow hammer. Just keep tapping the filter until it breaks loose.
Installation is a snap.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I have a '96 and a '98 and think the '98 is easier for changing the filter on. The WIF wiring is a pain dealing with when unscrewing the 96's filter. I like the open cartridge on the '98 so I can see how the filter element looks at change time.

 

[The patriot]

My 98 is a little tight with the ABS stuff, but not a big deal.

IIRC the 98 filter is good to 2 microns. I dont think the spin on's go that to that small a particulate.

 

[CWeaver]

Thanks Joe G & everyone !!!
moving the master & breaking free with a screwdriver & prybar worked well. Took awhile- it was rusty...
Thanks again for all the help! -CWeaver

 

[CWeaver]

Has anyone added a additional fuel filter on their 12 valve? I run some biodiesel & plan to add a Racor heated filter. These are three stage- turbine style water/debris separator, water block element & basket filter element. Any example would be the Racor 500fg 1210. I'd like to put this in front on the factory filter which is annoying to change... . what do you think?

 

[Grumpy John 4x4]

fuel filter add on

Mine was done by Jim Leonard his email -- email address removed -- mounted on the fire wall near the drivers side hood hinge, uses a fleet guard filter with a drain. piece of cake to change out!

 

[The patriot]

I have one of the Racor 1000's.

Thing is so dam big I dont know where to mount it. :{

 

[PRohr]

I have the stock housing and lines from my '98 12V that I puled off when i put the FASS on. The nipple off the drain vlave cracked off along with the drain hose but it doesn't leak and that part can be replaced from the dealer. If someone wants it I will box it up and let it go for the cost of shipping it. Just PM me.

 

[kenny61]

The filter is a cake walk even stock, once you get a long frog-sticker(slotted screwdriver) and a nice dead blow hammer. Just keep tapping the filter until it breaks loose.

Installation is a snap.

Thats what I do. Takes less than 5 minutes. But then again I got long thin arms to reach under everything once its loose

 

[KnightR]

It's not a big deal to change, but check for leaks, and tighten to specks. Mine leaked on a road trip, and we (at a diesel shop) tried three filters before it would stop. Not saying I have something wrong with the tolerance but I don't even think of attempting to change the fuel filter unless I'm close to home. The prime-loc is convient but it really looks like it would be in the way of some work operations, and the two hundred big ones (tax shipping) changes my mind.