Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 98 12V: Max Boost 19 lbs?

[RHestand]

I just inst. new Auto Meter gauges yesterday, and was surprised to only get 19 lbs. boost and 1000* pyro at WOT. Is this about normal for a stock 180 HP?

I retraced the nylon boost tube, no kinks. I installed the pyro probe in the exh, manifold as per Geno's.

Another question: A good wire to tie into to get my new ga. lights to dim with my inst. pnl. lights?

Neither of the two wires that go to the ashtray will work. (Also the bulb is not working, and I can't get it out. ) One wire is hot only, with ign. on, (no dimming) the other is dead. The bulb recept. is mounted in a mtl. plate, so I don't think the dead wire is a ground.

Does anyone know of a color coded wire I can just tie into? I got totally frustrated trying to find one under the dash, with my probe. Plus it's cold here in WI.

I checked all fuses, all good.

Any help on this would be appreciated.

TIA, Ray

PS. When it gets a little warmer I'm going to inst. a #8 plate and a 3K GSK, then maybe a little more timing and 60 lb. springs.

 

[HPetrat]

Your boost number for a stock 12v is about right (mine is a 98 215 HP and made 21-23psi).

Once you get the fuel plate and boost elbow installed it will go up considerably, as I have a # 10 plate and can make 40 - 42psi (yes I am over spooling the stock turbo and am working on that:-laf)



For your gauge lighting, I tapped into the headlight switch feed to the instrument cluster so that they will dim with the dash lighting. Have the set up for 6 + years with no issues.

If memory serves me right (doesn't always) the wire was orange, but I pulled the headlight switch and checked with a test light until I found the one I needed.



Good Luck with the upgrades,



HP

 

[Lil' Dog]

You can also tap into the illumination circuit behind the fuse panel. I pulled the knee bolster and tapped the wires there instead of stringing from the switch. . I also went there for power to the pyro.

 

[Bob V]

If it is a Cal emission truck it would have EGR, that would be about right

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Ray that's normal, don't feel bad, my '98 12V automatic produced an anemic 17psi boost when I finally put a boost gauge on it does a lot better than that now

 

[RHestand]

Thanks again for the replies guys.

If I can, I would like to ask a few more questions.

Bob V: The research I did on my truck before I bought showed it was bought new in WI and has been here ever since. So does that mean it has no EGR ? I hope so. I'm pretty sure it has a cat.

HPetrat: Does the headlight switch come out the front or the back of the dash. I'm big and old, and it's almost impossible for me to get to the back side of that switch. How did you do it? With almost the whole dash being plastic, it seems I'm always breaking something.

Vaughn MacKenzie: Are you still running a stock trans. /converter, and what would you est. your HP/torq. is?

TIA, Ray

 

[Dave M]

For my pillar gage lights I used an "Add-A_fuse" circuit from Kragens. You pull the Illumination fuse in the dash fuse panel and push this in its place. It has 2 fuses in it. One for the original fuse and the other has a pigtail hanging out that you crimp your wire onto and then run it out to your gage. Easy way to run the gage light.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

RHestad, if you had EGR there would be a pipe running from the exhaust side around to the side of your intake horn. Pretty sure yours isn't EGR. But all 12-valve trucks built after Jan 1, 1994 came with a cat, so did my '98.

The headlight switch comes out with 2 screws once you take the dash bezel off. It just snaps off but then you have to disconnect the auxiliary cigarette lighter wire that is behind the little door. To make snapping the bezel off easier turn your key on, put the gear selector all the way down, then tilt the wheel all the way down.

My trans is virgin, truck towed a pretty large fifth wheel at stock power, I've bumped it up a little to ~260-270 and stick my foot into it a lot, but still haven't touched the transmission. Holding up so far, at 189,000 miles.

My truck began life as a Michigan DOT truck (amazing, since it's 2-wheel drive) then a year later ended up at a Montana dealership. A dealership employee used it a few months, then sold it to a guy in Idaho who used it to haul his fiver to Palm Springs ever winter. Then I bought it from him in 2006. Love the truck.

 

[RHestand]

Thanks again for all the info on my truck.

Dave M: Great idea. My lighting wire from my gauges on the a-pillar, runs right through the fuse box, and is hanging down to the floor.

All I'll have to do is cut it off, and tie it in to my new Add-a Fuse.

I love the TDR, Ray

 

[Dave M]

Thanks again for all the info on my truck.

Dave M: Great idea. My lighting wire from my gauges on the a-pillar, runs right through the fuse box, and is hanging down to the floor.

All I'll have to do is cut it off, and tie it in to my new Add-a Fuse.

I love the TDR, Ray

I need to correct my self... . its called Mini fuse ADD-A-Circuit by Littlefuse PN FHM200BP at Kragens (now OReillys) for $9. 99. There are others sold out there that do the same thing. You want a mini fuse version not ATO fuse. I bought mine online but later seen the same thing at Kragens.



Here is where I got mine online:



Parts Express:
Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit Fuseholder for ATO/ATC Fuses



heere is another brand:



Mini Blade Add a Circuit Fuse Holder : Sporty's Tool Shop



Apparently Autozone sells one also.



Here is a pic of the Littlefuse Add-A-Circuit:

 

[Gweeds12V]

My 95 builds 28 lbs of boost unloaded and 32 lbs of boost loaded, its automatic, 4 in. exhaust, afe stage 2 airbox, fuel hasn't been touched so other then that its stock. I fried the transmission by putting on the 4in. and airbox so getting it rebuilt with beefy torque converter and whole schmeel. Also if i'm pulling a hill fully loaded with my foot in it i'll only reach 1000 egt. stock spec for the 94-98s on boost is only 15-18 lbs of boost from what i've read. I was amazed to see the boost i'm building with my mods.

 

[Dieseldemon]

EGR's were installed on trucks sold in California jan 1 1996

 

[GAmes]

My 95 builds 28 lbs of boost unloaded and 32 lbs of boost loaded, its automatic, 4 in. exhaust, afe stage 2 airbox, fuel hasn't been touched so other then that its stock

I'm guessing you are not the original owner.

 

[Gweeds12V]

I'm guessing you are not the original owner.

I'm the second owner. when i bought it, was stock. no gauges, stock exhaust, and as far as i've been told stock injectors. i can tell the fuel pump hasn't been touched cause the guy i bought it from sold it and kept the old 77 rust bucket ford he had, plus the factory break off screw is still there. Just got it back from the transmission shop, new transmission is awesome puts a lot more power to rear wheels. I talked to my mechanic, Richard Gillett. he says its not uncommon with just a 4in. and airbox to build that boost.

 

[RHestand]

Update:

Well yesterday I installed the #8 plate and the boost elbow. (? My kit had the #8 plate and a straight barbed fitting, with a small restrictive hole in it. ) I inst. the fitting in the blow pipe, 6" below the turbo. in the stock elbow location.

On my first test drive, it seemed like it was a little more responsive, but no smoke and still only 19-20 lbs. boost.

I then came back home, spun the star in the AFC housing about 2-2. 5 turns. (top of star towards eng. )

Second test drive: Maybe, a little more power? It definately makes smokes now (exh. ), when I floor it from a standstill,( but only for about 20') but still only 19-20 lbs. boost.

Do I need more boost restriction to the waste gate, like a smaller hole in the boost elbow? I thought I would probably have 28-29 lbs. boost, and more seat-of-pants acceleration, than it has. I think I need more boost.

What should I do next?

Will the 3K GSK help this low boost situation?

TIA for any advice on this.

Ray

 

[RHestand]

What would happen if I temp. plugged the small hole in my boost elbow?

At WOT my boost goes right up to 20lbs, then backs down to 18/19 lbs. If that is my waste gate opening, I would like to see what the WG does with no signal, just as an experiment. I know I would have to watch my boost gauge to make sure it does't go too high.

Somehow I need to zero in on why I'm only getting 19lbs boost?

Does anyone have any advice or ideas about this problem?

TIA for any help on my problem, Ray