'98.5-what prolems ot beware of?

[KWentling]

The girl friends Dad just bought a '98 24-valve (He thought he was buying the same truck as mine but mine is a 12-valve) with auto transmission, extended cab and shortbox 4X4 with 72K. I wish he would of asked me about it before he bought it. I know there were some issues with the early 24-valves (build date was 2/98) but haven't tried to keep up with them. Can someone enlighten me on what those problems were, the fixes, and what to look out for? I haven't driven the truck, but he says it runs and drives good. He is a consultant in the methane drilling field and currently is not doing any towing but may get a travel trailer if the job causes him to travel. The truck has 3:55's and he's getting about 15 MPG so far which probably isn't real bad for the kind of driving he is doing.

I told him I thought they had had problems with lift pumps and injection pumps. The dealer told him the lift pump is in the tank? I told him I didn't think so but that I'd find out.

Were transmission cooler lines still a problem then? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Kim

 

[AYSCII]

I have a 98. 5 24v 5 speed 3. 54 rear with 84K miles on it. Only problems so far has been RWAL speed sensor started acting up and lights came on dash this week. Replaced sensor on top of the differential and that cured that. Trailer hitch recall. I've had slight problems with the sending unit for the fuel guage for last 15K miles. When below 1/3 tank on steady needle to that point, the needle on dash guage will often be slow to come up to the correct reading and low fuel light will come on. Surely it's the sending unit in the tank but I'm letting it go until it gets worse.

Original set of Goodyears cupped real bad on the front. Lasted about 44K miles. I replaced the shocks with Rancho 9000's/5000 Steering stabiliser and the BFG AT's are doing lots better but still cupping slightly. I know I need a new Track Bar as there is wiggle in it. The Track may be the primary cause of the cupping but the upgraded Steering Stabiliser/Shocks probably helped it.



Yep, the lift pump is a known potential problem and I can't wait to get a fuel pressure guage to monitor it. I recently added an Edge Comp box so now I really need to watch it.



I'm now sure on the Auto Transmision so I'll let someone else address that.



My MPG is a bit better at around 19-19. 5 before the edge comp box. Not sure yet what it is now with it. His could be better even though Auto Trans. May be that cleaning/replacing the IAT sensor as discussed in this thread might improve it:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11726

Could just be driving habits or terrain differnces accounting for much of the difference.



Congrats to your girl friend's Dad on the new truck!!! Sign him up here!

 

[CJ Lagos]

What? Why do you wish he would have talked to you, oh, so you could have sold him your 12 valve and gotten the 24 for yourself?



I've got a 98. 5 24valave... and I tow 10k on a regular basis. I love mine and have had 0 problems. Got it at 27k miles, now has 58.



Only thing i've done is changed fluids and had to replace the thermostat, there was a recall on that.



Good luck!

 

[KWentling]

No CJ. I"m very happy with my 12-valve. If I'd have known he was looking for a truck I would have steered him away from the early 24-valve. I know there was lots of low power and problem posts when they first came out, although you would think the previous owner would have had them resolved in the 3 years and 72K he owned it. There were probably alot more people that had no problems than those that did, but there was enough that I was glad I didn't have one. I like the simplicity of the non computerized fueling and the P-7100 pump durability. I personaly think the 12-valve is hard to beat for reliability.

Kim

 

[Steve M]

Kim,

You sound like me right up until last Thursday. I traded my '98 12v for a 24v auto. The early 24v engines had a possibility of a mismachined rocker, thermostat sticking do to redesign to please folks that whined about their temp gauge swinging from 160-190, and the injector pump trouble caused by defueling to hold the Dodge trannies together. The 24v lubes the fuel injection pump with diesel fuel. Less fuel mean less lube and more heat. Those problems are resolved and the 24v is as good as it gets. The 12v has it's potential for trouble too. Dowl pin (major), fuel return line (minor), fuel shutoff solenoid failure (happened to me), the fuel gauge sending unit is common problem on all of them. Cure is don't pack the fuel in when you fill up. Don't know why but after my second sending unit started acting up, I read about that and started rounding off to the nearest quarter on fillups after it clicked off and problem went away for good. Fuel filter easier to change on the 24v too. Electric fuel pump makes priming it easier too. Just my humble opinion. Congrats to your girlfriend's dad's purchase of one of the best!

 

[larryq]

98.5 issues

I bought my 98. 5 4X4 Automatic 2500 CC New.



Issues so far:

60,000 miles now needs new tires... factory Michelins lasted beyond my expectations.



Thermostat. . (replaced not faulty. . but just to be sure)



Changed to Fleetgaurd Coolant... good move, Good stuff.



1 Crank Position sensor... covered under warrantee.



Shocks... Bilstiens now... factory shock in rear Blew out a seal.



6-8 PAIRS OF HEADLIGHT HOUSINGS... All Warrantee... . (Bad Seal Process)



New Rear Leaf Springs... . Warrantee... originals were "Loud Clunking"



New Brakes all around, Calipers. Drums. Rotors..... The Whole shooting match... . Warrantee dealer trying to fix brake pull problem. . decided to change the entire system... . (pull fixed for 10,000 miles then came back... replaced caliper pins and now as good as new.



LIFT PUMP..... Check and replace at the FIRST OPPERTUNITY YOU GET!!!!!.

Mine was 0-1 PSI at WOT... changed to "Newest revision" Lift pump from Cummins. . and the truck turned into a ROCKET SHIP!!!!



Now. . that may seem like a lot of "Bad Items". . but remember most of that was "Shake Down" issues that happened within the first 10,000 miles.

It's been smooth sailing for quite a while now. . (BTW I'm still on my original VP44 pump... must have got one of the good ones)







I have some advice for you tho.

It's time to do some preventitive Maint. on the truck... you never know how it was cared for.



Here is my list of things to do immediately.

Check Lift Pump Pressure Or just change the lift pump it only costs @60. 00

Coolant change / New Thermostat.

Change the fuel filter.

Air Filter Change.

Oil and Filter change with stuff you know is good... I. E. Fleetgaurd filters. . and proper oil for THIS PARTICULAR DIESEL!

Check and Tighten the Air Tubes to/From the intercooler.

Brake fluid change.

Power steering fluid change.

2 new Batts.

transmission fluid change and band adjust.

Transfer case fluid change. . (Uses ATF)

Front and rear Diff Oil Change.

New Belt and If you feel like it the Steel Idler Pulley from Practical Solutions to replace the stock plastic one.

Remove/Replace/Relube the Caliper pins.



As you do these things. . "Look Around"... . inspect the shocks... Brake linings... Exhaust... fuel lines... make a note of their condition and then work items into a routine maint. schedule.





If you do these things feel confident that the truck is "As Close To New" as you can make it!!!



Ready to run another 100,000 miles EASILY!!!!!



All it takes it a Little money and TIME!!!





I'll add one last thing so that you will understand where I'm coming from... .

My wife refers to my truck as "The OTHER woman in my life. "



I've been known to change my oil or ATF fluid just for something to DO!!!!



Obsessive Compulsive... Maybe... but at least she knows where I am most of the time... . UNDER THE HOOD...



Enjoy the new truck!!!!

Drive the HECK OUT OF IT!!!!

Larry

 

[icarus33]

Have a build date of 4/98.



Problems:



* Left rear axle seal leak, soaked shoes. Found during brake pull t'shooting.



* Right front axle seal leak, replaced both front seals.



* Intermediate steering shaft for chirp when wheel turned.



Have a few "mods" and no vp44 problems, lift pump a bit low at 4psi WOT and may change out.



It's a machine, it has character, and won't be giving it up for a long while.



icarus

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Had an EARLY 98.5

I had a very early 98. 5, which I traded at 59,000 miles. The TPS went bad at 47,000 and I upgraded the injector tubes, but other than that, it was perfect. The previous owner swore he never had to fix anything, and when I checked up on him, I found no records of warranty work.



My '98. 5 had a build date of Jan '98 and engine build date of Dec 23, 1997. It had a couple odd features, for instance some of the wiring harnesses were much different. The large connectors for 2 wiring harnesses just above the valve cover mounted on a bracket (that gets in the way when you're trying to reach in the back), mine had ONE wiring harness there with NO connector or bracket, looked much better.



Vaughn