2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 99 4x4 ball joint R&R Questions

[Joe Mc]

Top right side joint moves about 1/16" :{ They have zerk fittings so they're not the original, which "hopefully" will make the job easier Shake is driving me nuts! I have the DC shop manual. Just wondering if the top and bottom joint nuts are the same size, I measured 1-3/8" for the joint nut and 1-3/4" for the axel nut. Are these sizes correct? - before I go and purchase the sockets. I hope sockets will work as wrenches are more $$$. I've seen where some guys have used the power steering and a socket w/extension wedged between the housing & hub to "pop" the hub Vs. a puller. Any thoughts on this last operation? I'll be replacing that pesky housing tube seal while I'm at it. Thanks and wish me luck.

 

[vssman]

I just did mine this past weekend. I found out that the stock nut was smaller than the replacement ones clamping the ball joints to the yoke. Impact wrench really helps remove the axle nut too. For the lower ball joint you need a 1 5/16" socket. I bought a short socket so I could get a torque wrench on at re-assembly ( the socket was 3/4" drive and I needed to reduce it to 1/2" drive). Getting the hub off can be a nightmare. I unscrewed the 12pt bolts (9/16" socket) a bit and then tapped the heads with a brass drift. You might as well closely look at the axle joints while its apart. One tip: Find an automotive machine shop that is open when your doing the "rebuild" and just take the knuckle (and axle if needed) to them and have them press out the old ball joints and press in the new ones. It cost me only 32. 00 for one side. Cheaper than buying a ball joint press with the proper adapters - a standard 4x4 press set will not work without those longer adapting sleeves. Use plenty of antiseeze on re-assembly.

 

[Nate]

If you don't have a ball joint press, you will need one. The ball joints in mine were a royal biotch to get out.



http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2119&page=2&#32066



The front end of my truck hadn't been touched since 98 other than brakes. The hubs weren't too bad to remove, I used a cold chisel between the hub and the knuckle going around like it was a paint can lid.



Sockets, you need 1 11/16" for the axle shaft, 1 5/16" I believe is the larger of the ball joint nuts, and I think the smaller is like 1", 1 1/8" or 7/8"... should have that size in your normal tool kit.



Personally, I would do both sides while you are at it unless you feel that the other side will be ok for a while. The Spicer ball joints are $60 a side, so it not too bad.

 

[Joe Mc]

Done! Got the hub & rotor off by socket w/extension wedged between rear top bolt and housing then start up and turn wheel a bit then the same with the front lower. Worked quite well! Once the knuckle was off I had to heat up and beat out the bottom so I could get the threaded part of the tool in the hole in order to get it on to remove top joint. A bit of finangling to get them back in - some heat on the knuckle and frozen joints worked out alright. Alignment tomorrow.

 

[Jeff H]

If ya plan on keepin yer truck for life. ANTISIEZE.

 

[Joe Mc]

Good suggestion - did it.