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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 99 CTD front seat

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As many of you know over time the drivers seats wears from getting in and out of the truck, where are you guys getting new foam and upholstery from??

Does Dodge still sell it in factory colors??



Thanks Robert
 
Front Seat Repair

Gentlemen:



On my 1998. 5 Dodge 2500 4x4 long bed with a NV4500 5 speed manual, I had a similar problem with my driver's side seat bottom. The options were this:



Dodge Dealer: Not really an option. Seat bottom is no longer manufactured and if it were, it would cost you in excess of $725. 00.



Salvage: At a salvage yard that specializes only in Dodge trucks, they will sell you a reconditioned seat bottom for $275. 00. (I do not know what reconditioned means but they have lots of seats. ) This salvage yard is located in Rancho Cordova, CA (near Sacramento, CA):



All Dodge Truck

11350 South Bridge

Rancho Cordova, CA 95670

916 635 7602

www.alldodgetrucksca.com



I have dealt with these folks for a number of years and they are straight forward to deal with and they know Dodge trucks. (I have no financial or other links to this firm--I just use them for parts that are no longer made or too expensive to buy new. )



U-Repair It: This method was suggested by an earlier post and I followed the suggestion: I simply unbolted the seat bottom--4 bolts in total. I removed the seat bottom. On the 1998. 5 model, the seat covering is held in place by sets of plastic "clips. " I carefully pushed on the foam and lifted the clips from the steel seat frame. Once all four clips are free, I simply lifted the foam seat along with its fabric from the steel frame. ((Leave the fabric and foam as one piece--do not take the fabric off of the foam. Do this work carefully so as to not damage the foam or fabric. )



I then purchased a 15" x 17" x 1" piece of foam material from a local fabric store. I then found a piece of excess carpet and cut it to match the 15" x 17" piece of foam. It is a near perfect match for the steel seat frame. I replaced the thin plastic film protection on the steel springs followed by the carpet then the 1" thick foam. I then placed the old seat and fabric back on to the frame and clipped the fabric to the frame. I bolted it back into the seat and truck. Done.



This technique firmed up the seat dramatically so you are no longer "sitting in a hole. " My daughter gave it her seal of approval as she is learning to drive the truck.



What this simple repair will not do is firm up the outer edge of the seat--the part that you hit with you leg/thigh as you enter or slide out of the truck. That part of the seat is actually unsupported by the steel frame. The repair helps but it does not completely repair the outer edge. I just wanted to remedy the "sitting in a hole" syndrome.



One could, I imagine, shape some foam or simply stuff some foam or fabric under the fabric of the outer edge. The original foam of the seat and fabric seems to have enough give to work in this type or repair.



Finally, this assumes that the original seat fabric and foam of your seat bottom is in one piece and reasonable shape. I always had seat covers on the seats so they still are in pretty good shape even after nearly 13 years--just a few minor nicks on the side plastic.



Remember, after the seat build up, your material will be layered as follows:



1) Original seat fabric.

2) Original seat foam.

3) 1" thick new foam layer.

4) New carpet backing for support--I used a thin pile berber type carpet--about 1/2" in thickness total.

5) Thin protective film---I just used a clear plastic trash bag cut to 15" x 17" to place over the springs. You will see what the factory did when they built the seat. They placed a thin sheet of plactic over the springs to help protect the orginal foam. It is not an substantial piece of material.

6) Steel frame.



Good luck. I am sure someone has ways to improve on this technique. I only spent $4. 56 and 40 minutes on the effort.



Regards,



M. Young

Fair Oaks, CA
 
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To add to MAYoung's post, you can get fabric that matches the original at most automotive upholstery shops. Of course, I use seat covers as well, so the fabric on my seat did not need replacing, so all I did was replace the seat foam...
 
With pictures

Gentlemen:



On my 1998. 5 Dodge 2500 4x4 long bed with a NV4500 5 speed manual, I had a similar problem with my driver's side seat bottom. The options were this:



Dodge Dealer: Not really an option. Seat bottom is no longer manufactured and if it were, it would cost you in excess of $725. 00.



Salvage: At a salvage yard that specializes only in Dodge trucks, they will sell you a reconditioned seat bottom for $275. 00. (I do not know what reconditioned means but they have lots of seats. ) This salvage yard is located in Rancho Cordova, CA (near Sacramento, CA):



All Dodge Truck

11350 South Bridge

Rancho Cordova, CA 95670

916 635 7602

www.alldodgetrucksca.com



I have dealt with these folks for a number of years and they are straight forward to deal with and they know Dodge trucks. (I have no financial or other links to this firm--I just use them for parts that are no longer made or too expensive to buy new. )



U-Repair It: This method was suggested by an earlier post and I followed the suggestion: I simply unbolted the seat bottom--4 bolts in total. I removed the seat bottom. On the 1998. 5 model, the seat covering is held in place by sets of plastic "clips. " I carefully pushed on the foam and lifted the clips from the steel seat frame. Once all four clips are free, I simply lifted the foam seat along with its fabric from the steel frame. ((Leave the fabric and foam as one piece--do not take the fabric off of the foam. Do this work carefully so as to not damage the foam or fabric. )



I then purchased a 15" x 17" x 1" piece of foam material from a local fabric store. I then found a piece of excess carpet and cut it to match the 15" x 17" piece of foam. It is a near perfect match for the steel seat frame. I replaced the thin plastic film protection on the steel springs followed by the carpet then the 1" thick foam. I then placed the old seat and fabric back on to the frame and clipped the fabric to the frame. I bolted it back into the seat and truck. Done.



This technique firmed up the seat dramatically so you are no longer "sitting in a hole. " My daughter gave it her seal of approval as she is learning to drive the truck.



What this simple repair will not do is firm up the outer edge of the seat--the part that you hit with you leg/thigh as you enter or slide out of the truck. That part of the seat is actually unsupported by the steel frame. The repair helps but it does not completely repair the outer edge. I just wanted to remedy the "sitting in a hole" syndrome.



One could, I imagine, shape some foam or simply stuff some foam or fabric under the fabric of the outer edge. The original foam of the seat and fabric seems to have enough give to work in this type or repair.



Finally, this assumes that the original seat fabric and foam of your seat bottom is in one piece and reasonable shape. I always had seat covers on the seats so they still are in pretty good shape even after nearly 13 years--just a few minor nicks on the side plastic.



Remember, after the seat build up, your material will be layered as follows:



1) Original seat fabric.

2) Original seat foam.

3) 1" thick new foam layer.

4) New carpet backing for support--I used a thin pile berber type carpet--about 1/2" in thickness total.

5) Thin protective film---I just used a clear plastic trash bag cut to 15" x 17" to place over the springs. You will see what the factory did when they built the seat. They placed a thin sheet of plactic over the springs to help protect the orginal foam. It is not an substantial piece of material.

6) Steel frame.



Good luck. I am sure someone has ways to improve on this technique. I only spent $4. 56 and 40 minutes on the effort.



Regards,



M. Young

Fair Oaks, CA



3rd Generation Dodge Front Seat Thin Padding Fix



Floyd
 
Front Seat Repair

Gentlemen:



Thank you Mr. Wilson for the link to the seat repair. In the step #3 picture, you can see the plastic clips that hold the seat cushion to the steel frame. Rather than pull on the seat bottom springs, I gently pried the plastic clips from the seat frame. Since the foam is not glued to the seat frame, it lifts off easily. I found that approach a little easier rather than wrestling with the bottom springs with a pair of pliers. Either approach should work.



Also, when I approached an upholstery shop about new seat foam material, they wanted a very custom price for the custom shaping of the seat foam. Does anyone know of seat cushion material already shaped being available in the outside world?



M. Young

Fair Oaks, CA
 
Gentlemen:



Also, when I approached an upholstery shop about new seat foam material, they wanted a very custom price for the custom shaping of the seat foam. Does anyone know of seat cushion material already shaped being available in the outside world?



M. Young

Fair Oaks, CA



When I replaced the seat foam on mine, I formed it myself. For that I used an old electric knife purchased at a garage sale. I think I had pics posted here somewhere already, but I will try and post it again. The foam doesn't look the greatest, but once the fabric was put back on, it looks absolutely stock, and feels better than stock IMO.

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